Mary Poppins hysteria is set to blow in from the East, bringing with it umbrella-print PJs and tote bags emblazoned with the words “practically perfect in every way”.
But an audit of the pre-spring collections — in store now — suggest the non-Disney-shop frequenting fashion fan is also to feel the effects of the supernanny’s return. The woman who likes her choirboy collars and three-inches-below-the-knee skirts to come with a spoonful of sugar has rarely felt more relevant as a style icon. Similarly, Mary P’s favoured silhouette — nipped in at the waist with a hint of the equestrian and a puffball shoulder — is as desirable as it was in the roaring Twenties, with a host of designers flying the flag for the look.
London’s own Erdem, a designer who is perennially inspired by the romanticism of the early 20th century, is among those to master a Poppinsesque look. So much so that his pre-spring collection, a frilling haze of carpet prints, broderie anglaise collars and pixie boots, could easily sit within the wardrobe of the great woman herself.
He is joined by New York label Brock Collection, masters in the art of “lived-in romance”, who offer tapestry dress coats fit for an umbrella ride among the chimney tops. And Simone Rocha, who debuted her Spring 19 collection along with squashed boater hats and upholstery prints.
There are hints of Poppins on the high street. At least there are early indications that a return to the modest aesthetic that defined her era is ripe for a return as sleeves, low-slung hemlines and a shift away from the louche, Nineties-inspired mood that has dominated for seasons could be on its way out.
Of course, as anyone who spends at least two hours of every year marvelling at Mary’s excellent chignon bun will know, it’s not Poppins’s affection for modest cuts which sets her apart; it’s the way she wears them. From the sprig of flowers worn with confidence on the statutory nanny hat to the red bow which sets off her signature crisp white shirt, Poppins’s breed of conservatism is anything but boring. It’s this idea of stamping a sense of identity on an ordinary or austere item that is inspiring.
To make like Mary in a way that suits 2019, seek out high-collared blouses in stiff cotton and liven up with playful style quirks. A pair of low-slung bleach-denim jeans make a good companion. There’s also the option to layer the ruffles of your choice over a crewneck sweater in a contrasting shade.
When it comes to hem height, again it pays to be playful. A chunky trainer or a pair of hiking boots work well with a modest skirt length. There’s also the option to opt for a lace-up boot provided you keep things casual elsewhere.
Romantic puff sleeves are a huge part of the modest movement and will be everywhere next season. For a look that’s more suffragette costume than stylish, offset the prettiness with a trouser. A pair of leather pants or extra-wide leg shape will work a treat. At least until the wind change
