Riding a motorcycle in Chennai offers a unique sensory experience. One can distinctly hear the sounds of traffic and people swearing, smell the roadside food stalls serving fried delicacies, feel the heat beating down, and see every nook and pothole of the streets.
Many brands and motorcycles have tried to make their mark on this city and its people, but only a few have developed a cult following and remained relevant. Among them, one has Madras emblazoned all over it.
Royal Enfield is the oldest motorcycle brand in continuous production, creating models in the mid-size motorcycle segment. Despite tracing its origins to England, the factory in Tiruvottiyur, Chennai, is significant. Combining the latest technology with vintage designs, RE motorcycles are hardy with a classic look.
Dubudubudubudubu—the sound of Royal Enfield’s most celebrated and coveted bike, the Bullet, conjures images of a heavy and muscular bike replete with retro headlights and a powerful presence. Whether the bike is gliding on the road or halted in traffic, the 350cc engine earns admiring glances from both bike and rider. Over time, the bike has come to stand for masculinity and dominance.
For Arathy Vijayan, a 27-year-old IT professional, it was this perception that fuelled her desire to own an RE. “When you start riding the Bullet, you won’t feel the weight, only the gentle breeze against your body and the thumping sound and vibrations of the bike. It is one of the most comfortable bikes I have ever rode,” she says. Many boys grew up wanting to own a Bullet as adults. Some say that seeing older members of their families own one spurred their interest. “It looked so classy” is a popular refrain.
The Bullet, born in 1932 in England, only came to India in 1949 when K.R. Sundaram Iyer launched Madras Motors to import British motorcycles to India. The Indian Army placed an order with MM for 500 350cc bullets, which arrived from England in 1953 and became hugely successful for their hardiness. In 1955, Enfield India was formed, construction on a factory at Tiruvottiyur began, and 163 India Bullets were built by the end of 1956.
An article in The Hindu on September 17, 1973, says: “Enfield India’s Bullet and Crusader motorcycles are used in every nook and corner of the country…as personal transport by all categories of individuals engaged in productive activities”. The same article noted that in 1973, the factory in Tiruvottiyur was capable of manufacturing 16,000 motorcycles annually. Royal Enfield bikes have been featured in Indian films, contributing to the company’s aura and cult following among current generations. It was once used by police officers on patrol.
Arguably the Bullet’s biggest competitor was the Yezdi Roadking by Ideal Jawa Ltd., manufactured from 1978 to 1996. Faced with competition from international players, the company suffered heavy losses and ceased operations in the 90s. Older Yezdi models are still coveted and prized. “It was also as if one graduated from the Yezdi to the Bullet with time. The former went out of production, but the Bullet remained because of its perception, class, and sound”, said an enthusiast.
In January 2022, Yezdi was relaunched, returning to its classic models, which will fall in the same mid-weight segment as the Bullet.
The 1980s witnessed collaboration between Indian and Japanese manufacturers: Hero Honda, TVS Suzuki, and Kawasaki Bajaj. It was a time of flashier colours and modern designs, but none of these partnerships have endured. In the mid-1980s, there was a trend of altering Bullets and Yezdis, including silencers, and changing their appearance. A lot of money was spent to achieve sleeker looks in the cities.
Royal Enfield was forced to reinvent itself to keep up. Sidhartha Lal, managing director of Eicher Motors (RE’s parent company), is credited with the turnaround of Royal Enfield when he took over as CEO of RE in 2000.
The Yamaha Rajdoot 350 was launched in India in 1983 and manufactured by the Escorts Group. An advertisement in The Hindu on March 5, 1983, announced bookings and called the bike ‘one of the best 350cc motorcycles in the world’. At the time, it was a direct competitor to the Bullet. By 1990, the bike was no longer being assembled, but it had developed cult status, establishing Yamaha as a performance bike manufacturer.
The Escorts Limited’s Yamaha RX 100 came next in 1985. Its lightweight body and high power output made it one of the best 100cc bikes, and there is still appreciation even after production ceased. The company sold 158,467 motorcycles in 1994-95, a significant jump from 113,119 in the previous financial year, as reported in The Hindu.
“Royal Enfield is the only Indian brand in continuous production”, says Sathish T, manager, Sri Venkateswara Bike Zone, a licensed store for REs in Chennai, “And we have bikes across a range of prices, making it affordable for the middle class.”
Today, vintage bikes are in huge demand. “It is very costly to collect and maintain vintage bikes. Spare parts have to be imported from abroad in case the bike is no longer in production and you need in-depth knowledge of the bike itself,” says Sachith V, a collector of vintage models.
Motor racing has also gained popularity over the years, and after being mostly male-dominated, today women are a huge part of the scene. Founded in 1951, the Twin Wheelers MotorCycle Club was the first biking club in Madras and soon expanded to an open club. Its members frequently participated in races and even won. Today, more women participate in racing.
When Soundari A. ‘Sindy’ started racing in 2013, there was no separate race for women. “Now, I see so many women’s biking groups on social media, which goes to show how things have changed. Earlier, women depended on men for commuting, but now we own our own bikes or scooters”, she says. Scooters helped build confidence before switching to riding hardcore bikes and also deserve a market of their own.
Royal Enfield motorcycles are not known for zipping on roads or sporting bike appearances. Yet they continue to be popular today. Tradition and a cultivated image are responsible for the endurance of this world-famous company that calls Chennai home.