After spending nine years working in jewellery and accessories at Louis Vuitton, Marseilles-born Lucas Bauer decided to leave to start up on his own. This month, he debuts his first full collection, translating a preoccupation with organic forms into sensual jewellery pieces.
‘When I left the Louis Vuitton design studio, where I was a jewellery and womenswear accessories designer, I wanted to move into jewellery to create more luxurious, [enduring] pieces, working with materials that last over time,’ says Bauer.
‘Today, the challenge is to bring together the best of these two worlds and make them meet. I try to convey this message in my collection, creating timeless jewellery that explores the body in unexpected ways. Fashion jewellery allows a lot of flexibility in the use of materials and volumes. It allowed me to achieve a kind of creative freedom, pushing back boundaries and moving towards innovation.’
The pieces in his first collection, ‘Hyphos’, are designed to be worn alone or interlaced together. ‘My pieces are sensual because they have seductive intentions. They seek to settle and take up residence on our bodies. The jewels can be worn and identified as a single individual, but together they communicate like friends, tinkling and moving with the body – that leads the eye and that question space around it. My jewels wrap themselves around the body, spiralling.
‘I have spent a long time on finding the right shape and movement, each curve has the intention of awakening the eye and taking it to unexpected places. I am using 925 silver and 18ct gold, both known in their own domain for their noble qualities. They stand the test of time.
‘In fact, my jewels can be lifelong companions. These precious metals are recycled and purchased in Paris. They are then hand-worked in my workshops in Paris and Marseille to best fit the body's contours. Some of my jewels are embellished with precious and fine stones from dormant stocks or from sworn French boutiques. I wanted to work locally to be as close as possible to my commitments in terms of quality, authenticity and know-how.’
Taking the curves of the body as a queue, the tendrils of gold and silver are encouraged to wrap their way naturally around the neck, ear and finger, lending a casual wearability to fashion jewellery. ‘There is a perpetual flux and flow – a mix of softness and sharpness, sweetness and spiciness. Complements and contrasts make all parts whole: the balance of the world – light and shadow.’
