It is a truism that Christmas arrives earlier every year, but it also seems that restaurants are working harder to outdo themselves in the bauble-and-tinsel game each year, too.
From a simple tree in the corner to a full blowout Christmas extravaganza, decorations in London’s dining rooms range from the discreet to the frankly outlandish.
There are, however, a few spots who pull it off, while keeping an eye on the kitchen as well as the tree toppers. There is, after all, little point lunching in a festive-feeling room if the food is positively Scrooge-ish. Here’s where to head.
Daphne’s
The argument for Daphne’s forms around the appealing Italian fare delivered with elegance and charm, that prospect made even more appealing by the impressively festive conservatory ceiling, which looks rather it’s been covered with the world’s largest wreath. Come for the pastas and seasonal specials and stay for one of the more beautiful places to eat in London this time of year.
112 Draycott Avenue, SW3 3AE, daphnes-restaurant.co.uk
Walmer Castle
For a most discreet festooning of a dining room, the Walmer Castle is a top pick. The spruce and fir branches gently line the walls, with a pretty roasted chestnut cart out front, for that traditional holiday aesthetic. The pubby menu, brimming with the usual favourites, is a must too.
Walmer Castle, 58 Ledbury Road, W11 2AJ, walmercastle-nottinghill.co.uk
34 Mayfair
Maximalism personified: each year, the ceiling of modern grill 34 Mayfair is converted into a cacophony of festivity. A vast installation of many thousands of baubles and other Christmassy decorations provide the backdrop for an elegant yet surprisingly affordable Mayfair dining option, where the festive menu comes in at two courses for £38, three for £45. Not cheap, but a bargain in this part of town.
34 Grosvenor Square, South Audley Street, W1K 2HD, 34-restaurant.co.uk
Claridge’s
The beautifully appointed dining room at Claridge’s doesn’t shout its festive credentials, it whispers them to its guests as they gently sink into the plush leather banquettes; come for a star-spangled display in the centre of the room. Food here is simple and straightforward: oysters, good roast chicken, steak au poivre, that sort of thing. There’s also a Paul Smith designed Christmas tree in the lobby to admire.
Brook Street, W1K 4HR, claridges.co.uk
The Churchill Arms
When it comes to festive decorations festooning the outside of a venue, no one goes as big as the Churchill Arms. Probably London’s most famously Instagrammable pub, the exterior of this west London boozer gets a fresh annual dosage of lights and fir for an unrivalled Christmas feel. Come in to sink pints, and for surprisingly good Thai.
119 Kensington Church Street, W8 7LN, churchillarmskensington.co.uk
Rules
Sometimes, inescapable cliches like “timeless” and “historic” are the only words that will do, at least with Rules. London’s sort-of oldest restaurant does the festive season particularly well, with elegant decorative touches that add to the already sumptuous old-world feeling of the dining room. Food is much better than its oft-maligned reputation suggests — and as traditionally British as it gets — while the cosy, cocooning bar upstairs serves one of London’s best martinis. There’s even a red and gold carpet.
34-35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB, rules.co.uk
The Ritz
London’s best restaurant (at least according to David Ellis) does the festive season rather well. Christmas at the Ritz feels both maximalist and over the top, yet somehow also discreet and simple. The already resplendent dining room gets a few subtle additions, while the lobbies are home to the grander showstoppers. The French-inflected food is impeccable.
150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR, theritzlondon.com
The Pem
Another hotel restaurant which just gets things right, the Pem is at once homely and luxurious, both unique and familiarly comfortable. Sally Abe’s modern British food never quite gets the attention it deserves, and Christmas is the best time to investigate things.
22-28 Broadway, SW1H 0BH, thepemrestaurant.com
Cadogan Arms
Much of the Cadogan’s charm is that while it falls under the umbrella of restaurant behemoth JKS, the pub itself feels charming and independent. It’s one which suits Christmas well, with dark panelling and golden hues and elegant Christmas decorations. At this time of year, there few better pubs in Chelsea.
298 King's Road, SW3 5UG, thecadoganarms.london
Dovetale
This year, the Tom Sellers and Tom Anglesey restaurant at the One Hotel Mayfair is getting a huge Christmas makeover. Dubbed “the Winter Village”, this pop-up features carol singers, Guinness and oyster nights, bratwurst, fondue and whisky. And festive tarot reading, because why not?
1 Dover Yard, W1J 8NE, 1hotels.com
The Ham Yard
Soho doesn’t always feel festive, packed as it is with shoppers and tourists this time of year, but the excellent Ham Yard provides suitable respite from all that. The hotel is set to lay on a huge gingerbread winter village adorning the lobby, the perfect festive pitstop before heading to the rooftop bar for something boozy and mulled.
1 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT, firmdalehotels.com