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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Samantha Herbert

London’s best vegan Christmas dinners, from Refuel Your Soul to Mallow

Head to Borough Market for Mallow’s rotolo in crosta di salvia

(Picture: Mallow)

Whether it’s a traditional pub roast, a fine dining experience or something a little more exotic you’re after this Christmas, London’s festive vegan offerings are looking better than ever.

With so many new plant-based restaurants and menus launching, it can be a dizzying choice — so we’ve picked our top festive feasts free of animals but packed with flair.

These include the live-fire barbecue concept at Acme Fire Cult in Dalston, a five-course Italian tasting menu at Mallow, the best of French cooking at Refuel Your Soul in Hoxton and a Peruvian-Chinese fusion at Pacahamama East.

While wildly different in cuisine and setting, what ties all these Christmas menus together is their impressive imagination and delectable food, truly fit for Christmas. Have a lovely one.

Refuel your soul 

(Refuel Your Soul)

A fully vegan French bistro serving up a delectable festive menu and stunning cocktails in a cosy rock ’n’ roll haven — what’s not to love? Head chef and owner Nabila Slama brings the best of fine French dining and hospitality to east London, and the impressive Christmas menu comes as either four or six courses. Everything here is made from scratch — and, despite the names, entirely meat-free — from the pan-seared foie gras to the blue cheese atop asparagus to start. The main course is a choice between a turkey supreme roll with chestnut mousse, truffle cream and gratin dauphinois, or a salmon and spinach wellington served with chard and grilled sprouts. To finish is a festive chocolate and smoked blood orange yule log with Cointreau and chantilly cream. Refuel radiates both quality and warmth — all to a soundtrack of excellent alt-rock which should have guests coming for the food and staying for the party.

227-229 Hoxton Street, N1 5LG, @refuelyoursoullondon

Gauthier

(Gauthier)

In a smart Soho townhouse, Gauthier takes fine vegan dining to a whole new level. Celebrated chef Alexis Gauthier held a Michelin star for 12 years, and made waves in the restaurant scene when he became vegan and later removed all animal products from his menus. Applying classical cooking techniques to a new form of French gastronomy, the restaurant achieves all of the flavours, textures and richness you’d expect from a fine eight-course French tasting menu, with none of the meat or dairy. Served with exceptional professionalism and knowledge in an intimate setting, this menu offers a taste of luxury previously lacking from vegan dining. With a fully paired wine menu available to accompany the meal, this is a perfect choice for anyone looking for an indulgent and memorable Christmas treat. On a personal note, the food at Gauthier is the best I’ve experienced after more than a decade of a plant-based diet.

21 Romilly Street, W1D 5AF, gauthiersoho.co.uk

Dishoom

(Dishoom)

Dishoom’s Christmas feast offers the best of Bombay comfort food with a festive twist. Featuring many Dishoom favourites, like the Vegan Pau Bhaji and Chaap Pineapple Tikka to get things started, the main event here is the No-turkey Raan served with all the trimmings, including chilli-spiced sprouts. Served with a pick of breads, rices and salads, this is a meal that fills every inch of the table and is best enjoyed with a merry group. For pudding, a sweet basmati kheer, akin to a British rice pudding — but with a whole lot more flavour, and a crunchy caramelised top. With its always vibrant atmosphere, there’s a reason Dishoom remains a firm London favourite.

7 Boundary Street, E2 7JE, dishoom.com

Mallow

(Mallow)

Run by the team behind Mildreds, you might surmise Mallow to be the slightly-more-sophisticated sibling. Launched just over a year ago, Mallow sits in the heart of Borough Market offering a calming respite to the bustle of Christmas shopping. With high ceilings, bright windows and a botanical theme, Mallow is a beautiful space, already making a big name for itself in the vegan dining scene. This Christmas it promises a five-course Italian feast designed to be shared between a minimum of four guests. To start is an imaginative selection of small plates, from classic focaccia with a citrus twist, to porcini chestnut croquettes and vinaigrette leeks with a blue cheese mousse. Next is Mallow’s take on a rotolo in crosta di salvia — plant-based chick’n in pastry with winter greens and a sun-blushed tomato pine nut filling, served on a saffron cream sauce. This feels wonderfully festive with a comforting nod to tradition, while offering up some unique flavours. Served with a selection of vegetable and polenta sides, it’s one for those with a big appetite. Afterwards is a beautiful white chocolate tiramisu, followed — of course — by a digestivo.

1 Cathedral Street, SE1 DE, mallowlondon.com

Acme Fire Cult

Acme Fire Cult’s Coal Roasted Leeks with Pistachio Romesco (Acme Fire Cult)

A live-fire BBQ restaurant seems an unlikely call for a vegan Christmas lunch but for those needing a spot that will also impress carnivorous friends, Acme Fire Cult is a fantastic choice with an impressive sense of innovation. Tucked away in the Bootyard in Dalston, the concept is to cook low-waste food over fire. While the restaurant does serve meats from regenerative farms, the vegetables take centre stage. Cooked over a grill, with imaginative sauces and spices from around the world, the Christmas feasting menus are to be shared between a group, though the vegan main of smoked celeriac with mushroom-kelp and coco bean miso can be ordered individually. This comes with a selection of vegan small plates including coal-roasted leeks served on a pistachio romero and charred beets with a salsa verde. Pudding is a chocolate ganache with burnt orange marmalade. Pair all this with the fact Acme is attached to the brilliant 40FT Brewery, and it has all the makings of a wonderful Christmas feast.

Abbot Street, E8 3DP, acmefirecult.com

Cafe Van Gogh

(Cafe Van Gogh)

A not-for-profit social enterprise, which serves up spectacular food, Cafe Van Gogh is the perfect place to eat as much as possible in the name of supporting the local community. Served with a glass of mulled wine, its Christmas menu starts with a house crumpet with oyster mushroom rillettes, celeriac remoulade and dill pickles. For the main is a smoked tofu, leek and blue cheese pithivier parsnip purée served with buttered savoy cabbage and port and chestnut sauce, a dish as cosy as Cafe Van Gogh itself. For dessert is a decadent chocolate, hazelnut and honeycomb parfait. Adorned with a ceiling-covering Van Gogh mural, beautiful spiral staircase and friendly staff, Cafe Van Gogh is a hidden gem on Brixton Hill.

88 Brixton Road, SW9 6BE, cafevangogh.co.uk

The Spread Eagle

(The Spread Eagle)

A classic cosy pub, with a 100 per cent vegan menu, and a shrine to Prince: the Spread Eagle has it all. The festive menu here is one to write home about, starting with a choice between deep fried shamembert, cauliflower fritters, Jerusalem artichoke soup or a shockingly “meaty” faux gras served with toast and pickles. There are likewise four options for the main, but for me beet wellington served with all the trimmings is the star. Afterwards, hav the classic sticky toffee pudding. Besides the food is a fabulous cocktail menu, while the pub is also serving up mulled wine, vegan eggnog and a decadent, boozy hot chocolate.

224 Homerton High Street, E9 6AS, thespreadeaglelondon.co.uk

The Gate

(The Gate)

The Gate deftly balances a touch of luxury and a little experimentation with a relaxed setting where diners definitely feel the Christmas spirit. Available across all three of its London sites, The Gate’s Christmas menu offers up familiar festive dishes with a fancier-than-home twist. To start, choose from a three-onion tart, chestnut, parsnip and cranberry terrine or an impressive wild mushroom risotto cake. For mains, there’s a tempting aubergine schnitzel, a Christmas rotolo or and classic Wellington. Everything served at The Gate is exquisitely presented, and at £36 for three courses feels much pricier than it is. For a dazzling dessert, go for the dark chocolate sphere served with pear purée, chocolate mousse and a hazelnut crumble.

22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL, thegaterestaurants.com

Mildreds

(Mildreds)

A London vegan stalwart, Mildreds now has five locations across the capital, all offering a 100 per cent plant-based menu. Throughout December, guests can choose a meal of two or three traditional Christmas courses, each with a vegan spin. A cauliflower cheese mac baubles served with a plum ketchup, or a wild mushroom parfait with port jelly starts things off, both feeling suitably festive and warming. The main is a traditional turkey roll served with all the roast trimmings, or a chick’n burger stuffed with bubble and squeak, cranberry relish and pigs in blankets. Be warned, the portions are huge, but the food is too good not to finish, so prepare to roll home. If you can make it to dessert, a festive trifle awaits along with a festive menu of cocktails. Whether booking with a large group best suited to a private room or a pair looking for a cosy table for two, Mildreds is a fantastic festive option.

45 Lexington Street, W1F 9AN, mildreds.co.uk

Pachamama East

(Pachamama East)

Pachamama East delivers an unique blend of Peruvian and Chinese cooking in its phenomenal festive vegan tasting menu. Taking inspiration from both cooking cultures, while using the best of British produce, the result is an original dining experience served in a vibrant and modern east London space. From mushroom ceviche to caramelised aubergine and Chinese cabbage salad, a range of vegetables are the main event here. Accompanied by tender mapo tofu, and cheung fen noodles, the menu is diverse in its flavours, textures and cooking techniques. Finished off with a fresh pineapple and tamarind anticucho, this is a brilliant alternative to yet another December roast dinner.

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