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Broadly speaking, facials can be divided into three categories: ones that treat skin health, ones that target muscles to relax and tone them (usually via a massage), and, finally, ones that involve a protocol that’s pampering and more product-based (often during this one, a series of masks and products are applied in sequence).
Which of the three you choose will depend on both your leanings and your skin needs. For those with acne, for example, the more science-based facial to really reduce breakouts and scarring is likely to be the best port of call, especially when considering that facial massage can annoy the pilo-sebaceous unit, which is basically the engine room of your pore, meaning you may well end up with more spots as a result.
On the flip side, anyone lucky enough to have woe-free skin can have their pick of the three, but may just want to zone out during a traditional, product-heavy treatment. And if you spend your days sitting at a computer frowning at the screen (guilty), a massage-based facial will probably make that tension feel less pronounced.
Whichever of the three you prefer – and there is of course overlap on occasion — it’s handy to know precisely what you’re booked in for before you go, which is why the Standard team put our faces in the hands of London’s best facialists to bring you this definitive guide of what goes on behind their hallowed doors.
Before you read on, a few words of wisdom we’ve canvassed from top facialists in case you venture off this list. First, don’t let anyone near your skin with a spot-removing tool. In fact, don’t let them near your skin with anything that pushes at it or feels painful; part of the job of a facialist is to soften the skin prior to extraction to make the process easy.
Which brings me to steaming. Some will do this to soften, but it’s largely now considered a taboo move as doing so can aggravate skin that’s already reactive. As mentioned above, if you have spots, don’t let someone massage your skin vigorously; acne is a state of stress for your skin and doesn’t require any additional bother. Finally, everything should be impeccably clean and sterile, from any tools used to the facialist’s hands.
That all said, here’s your guide to London’s best facials.
Pam Marshall at Mortar and Milk
What kind of facial is it? This one’s all about skin health: Pam Marshall is renowned for her encyclopaedic knowledge of how skin functions, and for gently but firmly nudging it in the right direction. She specialises in dealing with acne, and has earned the nickname ‘the acne-whisperer’ by the press who laud her for her sensible but effective approach.
What can I expect? After cleansing and examining the skin, Pam may apply an acid to encourage the skin to do anything from clogging less frequently to behaving more youthfully. Micro-needling is sometimes involved, as are extractions where needed, and the application of BYONIK lasers to help repair the skin at a cellular level. As appointments are like gold dust, you may choose to do an online consultation instead, where Pam guides you on what to do and what to use/avoid at home to help your skin out.
What are the results? You will leave with skin that’s softer and smoother and bouncier – but the real results emerge over time, with Pam’s technique promoting skin health over the longterm.
How much? A bespoke skin treatment is £300
Where? Mortar and Milk, 5 Hoxton Square, N1 6NU
Website: mortarandmilklondon.com
Madeleine Spencer
Dimple Amani Buccal Facial Sculpt
What kind of facial is it? This one’s a facial sculpt massage that works both as therapy and as a facelift of sorts: basically, all you could ever need to look glowing and fresh.
What can I expect? The facial uses a host of Ayurvedic-inspired oils all over the face and shoulders to cosset skin and lubricate for the massage. That massage is the foundation of the facial, targeting every part of the face with the aim of draining the lymph nodes, removing jaw tension, and sculpting the cheeks to look plumper. This bit isn’t relaxing by any means (and does include the therapist putting their gloved fingers in your mouth to better get at those muscles), but it’s effective. The therapist also uses a copper wand and facial roller to loosen the cheek muscles.
What are the results? A glowing complexion with muscles that sit smoothly under the skin.
How much? £150 for 60 minutes
Where? Define London, Selfridge’s
Website: dimple-amani.com/
Vicky Jessop
Seed to Skin Tuscany in Liberty London
What kind of facial is it? This one’s all about experiencing the Seed to Skin products, all of which are developed at the Seed to Skin Spa on the Borgo Santo Pietro estate in Tuscany.
What can I expect? You’ll feel whisked away thanks to the scents of the products combined with myofascial or Gua Sha-led massage to sculpt, detoxify, or tone, depending on which you book in for.
What are the results? The sense of having soothed skin and senses – and likely a slight obsession with the product range, and, in particular, the The Cure Molecular Cell Regeneration Complex, in my case.
How much? Facials start at £95 for 45 minutes.
Where? The Queen Mary Room in Liberty London
Website: libertylondon.com
Anna van Praagh
Teresa Tarmey
What kind of facial is it? Teresa’s facials are all bespoke, but they’re very much about skin health with a focus on using machines where needed, often to zone the face.
What can I expect? My facial started with a peel to brighten and prep the skin, followed by lasers to help reduce pigmentation and red veins, a little bit of fractional laser in some areas and microneedling in others, followed by LED to soothe.
What are the results? An improvement of skin both in short and longterm, as well as a movement towards goals like diminishing pigmentation or scarring.
How much? The Advanced Facial is £289
Where? 206-208 Kensington Park Road, W11 1NR
Website: teresatarmey.com
Madeleine Spencer
Marlene Munoz
What kind of facial is it? Marlene combines holistic treatments including facial or body acupuncture, with treatments to stimulate collagen and work on overall skin health.
What can I expect? During the facial you will learn more about your skin from a 360 perspective, and may at times have opportunities to zone out if that’s what you like, but it’s somewhere between being a relaxing treatment and an informative one, marrying up Marlene’s love of the science of skin with her understanding that the human within affects what radiates out from it.
What are the results? Skin that’s plumper, smoother – and a sense of having been looked after and cared for throughout the duration.
How much? The Classic Glow facial costs £145 for 60 minutes.
Where? The Well Clinic in Notting Hill on Thursdays and Nuriss Skin Clinic on Upper Wimpole Street on Fridays.
Website: marlenemethod.com
Madeleine Spencer
