Another season of New York Fashion Week is over, and now it's time for London Fashion Week to dazzle us with the autumn/winter 24 collection of emerging talent as well as the usual heavyweights. Here's what's been happening so far.
Roksanda
Roksanda blurred the lines between art and fashion yet again with a collection that was inspired by a trip to Le Courbusier's wooden cabin in the South of France. His 'free-spirited' murals inspired tapestry-style pieces which included a dramatic cape and gown adorned with abstract patterns. Ropes were a recurring theme, draping ballgowns and cinching waists on coats and blazers. The designer's signature architectural silhouettes and bold colours were present throughout, putting coral and lime firmly on the top of our shopping list for Autumn/Winter 24.
Molly Goddard
Molly Goddard proves yet again that the winter season can be far from boring. Looking at archival pieces for the collection, a visual identity emerged: volume and layering like you wouldn't believe. As the show notes explained, it was 'shapes on top of shapes; garments combining - pulling in, pushing out, smushing'.
There were tulle skirts (so synonymous with Molly), layered under slouchy jumpers pulled in at the neckline with a drawstring, drop waist dresses with bubble skirts, baggy tops over baggy skirts. Molly was inspired by 1960s Balenciaga and Dior gowns, but re-imagined them with freedom of movement for the modern wearer. Another trend of note: the romantic cowgirl, with her softened cowboy boots, slouchy trousers and western shirt with bubble hem.
Huishan Zhang
A dramatic collection for dramatic leading ladies. For Autumn/Winter 24, Huishan Zhang decides to explore and celebrate the conflicting personalities and sartorial personas of Ingrid Bergman and Anna Magnani, romantic rivals in a legendary cinematic feud - and perhaps imagine what they would wear today. There were Old Hollywood-esque sequin dresses and satin suits, as well as more modern pieces such as leather trench coats and pencil skirts with bejewelled mesh overlay. Highly wearable and covetable.
Chet Lo
Chet Lo is known for his knitted, durian fruit-inspired spikes. This season, he played with their proportions and placement, adding spine-like detailing to a hoodies, trousers and fishtail skirts. In previous seasons, the London-based, Asian-American designer has accessorised his ready-to-wear with bags and shoes from Singaporean accessory brand, Charles & Keith; last month, they collaborated on a capsule of spiky slingbacks and shoulder bags, which made its catwalk debut here.
Knitwear innovation has become the London-based, Asian-American designer's calling card, and this latest collection is no exception; as well as the prerequisite prickles, there were jumpers made from liquid-metal yarns and a hand-knitted paillette dress that jingled as it shimmered down the runway.
Mark Fast
Things got a little sci-fi at Mark Fast – in the best way possible. The knitwear master was inspired by future-focused '60s architect Joe Colombo to create a collection with 'extra-terrestrial edge.'
There was everything you'd need to navigate a futuristic metropolis by day and night; Barbarella boots were styled with cosy jumpers and knitted dresses with cobweb-like detailing. Crafted from weather-resistant materials, oversized coats were both luxe and practical. And there were some standout party dresses, too – namely a turquoise velvet gown that felt like just the sort of thing you'd want to wear to a space-age soiree.
Noon by Noor
Supriya Lele
Tolu Coker
Masha Popova
Erdem
Ahluwalia
David Koma
Simone Rocha
Richard Quinn
