Don’t just use concealer to hide spots
You may think concealing spots or dark patches means that the job is done, but I’d suggest you complete your base by taking a look at your face and deciding if it could benefit from areas of slightly lighter concealer to lift shadows and brighten the face.
Everyone’s different, but I often find places worth paying attention to include the shadows between the nose and mouth, the corner just under the outside of the mouth where some shadow will often sit, and right at the outer corner of the eye which can be a little red.
Another area worth adding some light to? Right in the centre of the cheek just under the cheekbone — it’ll lift the face amazingly well. Remember to be precise with this technique — a little goes a long way — and blend really well so there are no harsh edges.
Correct your skin in a patchwork style
No two faces are the same, so don’t feel you have to apply concealer in a particular place; just make it work for your own complexion.
I’ve been using my pinpoint method for years, where I apply whatever base is needed on someone’s whole face that day, then go in and add concealer to micro areas. That way, you can really customise how much coverage you want, and what you want to see or not; you can, for example, leave your freckles out while covering spots of veins. My new Pinpoint Concealer Micro Correcting Pencil (£27, lisaeldridge.com) is perfect for the job, as the tip is 1.5mm and it’s waterproof and sweatproof, so the precision results really last. I’d recommend scribbling it on unevenly so it’s not in a circle, blending the edges with a finger or a brush, then adding more to build coverage if needed.
Lipstick can look better if you customise the shape
If you like wearing a vivid or deep colour on your lips but feel doing so makes them look thin or your face look angry, it may all be down to the shape you are creating.
To lift and add a more friendly appearance, block off the corners of the lower lip with a concealer, then apply lipstick while you’re slightly smiling to the centre of your lips. The idea is to create volume. When that’s done, you can add lip pencil when you’ve decided what the most flattering shape for you is, scribbling it on to the edge of the lipstick so you’re not left with a really pronounced line when your lipstick wears off.
Swap thick eyeliner for a micro-line
By this I mean adding some definition along the lash line rather than an obvious lick of liner. This subtle step can transform the way your eyes look, even if you’re not a liner person — everyone looks better with something scrubbed between their lashes.
Use either a liquid or a pencil, and you’re aiming for the edge between the inner waterline and outer eyelid, which has the effect of making your eyelashes look really dense, and your eyes more defined. The trick here is not to press very hard, but to sketch lightly. You can use a small brush to buff it in and diffuse the edges.
Don’t be too uniform with your highlighter
Google any famous portraits by painters or go to the National Portrait Gallery; you’ll notice that from a distance what looks like the brightness that makes people’s faces look lovely is white paint. Applying that principle to highlighter is easy: think of where the spots of light bounce off your face and add them where you’d like to amplify that. I do this with a small clean brush, and often will add some down the nose (sometimes a dot, sometimes a bit more), a bit on the cheekbone, maybe some above the brow and inner corner of the eye. Keep things random, which will mimic nature. A cream formula is fantastic for upping the ante on how light plays on the skin, but you can use a powder if you’ve already powdered your face.
Brush brows down to see their real shape
Very few people have perfect brows, so brushing them down reveals where portions are thicker or more clumpy. This will help you to determine where to add what I refer to as “background” (the bits that make the eyebrow overall look even and neat). You can add colour with a small, firm pencil, or with a fine brush where needed. After this, brush them back into place, fill in any hair strokes you’d like to add and finish with a natural or tinted brow gel.
Consider ditching the black eyeliner
Black eyeliner can make eyes appear small thanks to the intensity of the border. It may work for people with huge eyes, of course, but if yours are smaller or close together, it can enhance that.
Try looking instead for shades that have some harmony with the natural tones in your skin. That way, you can still use a deep shade, but it’ll be more in synergy with your colouring and therefore more flattering. Shimmer helps too, and I’ll often use my Renaissance Gold Seamless Glide Eye Pencil (£24, lisaeldridge.com) to line while also adding a bit of shimmery light.
Start and finish with blusher
Trends aren’t always the most helpful thing with blush, so instead I’d recommend putting a little on your cheeks at the start of make-up, doing the rest of your make-up, and then re-evaluating — you might need to add more, or dial it up on a certain part of your face.
In terms of colour, I always think of blush as something that should enliven, so you want to look like you do after exercising. When your face looks awake and your eyes sparkle, you’ve got it right.
Massage your mascara into the roots of lashes
The first trick of mascara is to get the right formula for your lashes. If it’s too wet and heavy and your lashes aren’t very strong, they’ll lose their curl the minute you put it on. If yours are sparse, don’t go for anything that’ll clump them together.
Once you’ve found the right one, begin with the roots of lashes, massaging and pushing product right into base. Only once they’re well coated should you move to the mid length and tips, so the first few millimetres have real depth to frame your eyes properly.
Brushes are best for blending
The difference between nice make-up and pro make-up often lies in the blending. Even if you think your foundation is seamless, it’s worth taking a clean brush around the edge of your hairline and jawline and just buffing away. Do the same with your eyeshadow, highlighter and cream blush for a perfect finish.
