A mythical land where the ancient Minoans had many of their settlements, palaces and places of worship, eastern Crete is an enchanting – and lesser explored – region where life is serenaded by the lap of waves on the brightly painted hulls of traditional fishing boats, and the Alpine-like jingle of bells as shepherds take their flocks to graze in high pastures. The scenery is laced with tiny hamlets that seem lost in time (in the best possible way) and golden, sand-lined coves lapped by turquoise waters, where it’s possible to laze all day without seeing a soul.
The unofficial capital of Crete’s east coast is the lively town of Agios Nikolaos, with its colourful labyrinth of shopping lanes, Venetian promenade and the legendary Lake Voulismeni at its centre where, according to mythology, the goddess Athena once bathed. Enjoy a leisurely meal in one of the laid-back tavernas around this mirror-clear pool and then follow roads fringed with sweet-scented wild fennel to Elounda. Despite briefly having a name as a swinging 60s hangout for the likes of Aristotle and Jackie Onassis, this fishing village – like the rest of this lovely region – is still surprisingly lowkey.
A fisherman on Elounda bay; a selection of local cheeses; the town of Agios Nikolaos and Lake Voulismeni (below)
Clustered around a harbour where fishermen can often be found sitting and mending their nets, Elounda is also home to quaint shops selling woven goods, ceramics and other souvenirs, as well as a surprising number of restaurants, bars and tavernas. And, like so many other places in this storied region, it is historically significant: Elounda lies on the site of what was one of Crete’s most important cities in antiquity. Reached via a narrow isthmus, the sunken city-state of Olous was built by the Dorians and even mentioned in Homer’s epics.
The waters of Elounda (top); Spinalonga (below)
From Elounda, traditional two-masted caique wooden fishing boats sail across the glittering waters of Mirabello bay to Spinalonga, where Victoria Hislop’s bestselling novel The Island was set. Here, you can spend a few hours exploring the Venetian fortifications and stone buildings of this haunting location, where the members of Greece’s last leper colony lived until 1957 – and then make a beeline for some of the beautiful Blue Flag beaches for which this part of Crete is renowned.
Vai beach is fringed by Europe’s only palm forest
Elsewhere, the nearby town of Malia also has plenty of golden sandy beaches lapped by sparkling waters, while the coast between Elounda and Istro is studded with a multitude of pristine coves. If you’re feeling adventurous, head farther east to laze in the shadow of Europe’s only palm forest on Vai beach, near Sitia; or take a boat from Ierapetra in the south to seek out the sea daffodil-studded dunes and ancient salt pans on eastern Crete’s Natura 2000-protected island of Chrysi.
Eastern Crete is more than just glorious seascapes, however: head inland and you’ll discover the windmill-studded Lasithi plateau, known for its rugged landscapes, fertile soil and traditional hamlets such as Kritsa – home to the famed Panagia Kera church. It is also an area rich in mythology; about an hour’s drive from Kritsa is the tiny village of Psychro, where you can begin the ascent to the far-flung Diktaean cave, which is said to be the birthplace of Zeus. Having worked up a sufficient appetite, take the chance to sample some of the local cuisine in Psychro, or in any number of the nearby mountain villages, where tiny tavernas serve (usually grandma’s) homemade food. And since Crete is reputed even among the Greeks as the country’s friendliest island, don’t be surprised if you’re offered a complimentary glass or several of raki after dinner.
Chrysi island (top); the church of Panagia Kera; dinner fresh from the sea
Where to stay
Blue Palace, a Luxury Collection Resort, Elounda
A stone’s throw from some of the island’s top attractions – including the ancient Minoan palace of Knossos, the Lasithi plateau and the historic island of Spinalonga – Blue Palace sits high on a hilltop with stunning views over Elounda’s deep azure bay. With its own spacious private beach and showstopping infinity pool, the resort is dotted with mosaics, rough-hewn brick walls, chandeliers and curvy divans – culminating in the stunning atrium lounge overlooking its pool.
Enjoy aperitivos at Arsenali
If that sounds fancy, then get ready to take it up a step: inside Blue Palace lies what can only be described as a resort within a resort – the Haven Collection, home to its most exclusive suites and villas. With an emphasis on privacy and space, expect uninterrupted sea views and elegant interiors, in addition to attentive, personalised service as part of this extra glamorous enclave.
With five on-site restaurants and two bars, Blue Palace guests can drift from sunset aperitivos at Arsenali to pan-Asian food at Asia Deep Blue. Authenticity and seasonality is the focus here, with menus curated by acclaimed creative consultant chef Athinagoras Kostakos and executive chef Giannis Kallivretakis, reflecting a love for the fresh and local seen most strongly at Anthós, the farm-to-table contemporary Greek restaurant, as well as at Blue Door, the resort’s very own quintessentially Greek taverna.
The stunning suites at Blue Palace provide the perfect home base for exploring the region’s charming towns and villages
Whether you’re using it as a jumping-off point to explore the Mirabello Bay and beyond, indulge in local food experiences, or just coming to lay poolside with a book overlooking the Aegean Sea, a stay at Blue Palace merges nature, luxury and signature Greek hospitality.
Cretan Malia Park
Buried in palm-fronded greenery near the town of Malia, Cretan Malia Park’s manicured lawns lined with sweet-scented flowers overlook a strip of Blue Flag beaches dotted with sunbeds and swing hammocks, perfect for sunbathing and sundowners alike.
Focused on sustainability and authenticity, the Design Hotels member has several superb restaurants – including Mouries, where chef Lefteris Iliadis serves up contemporary Cretan food in an outdoor open kitchen setting. A plethora of beach activities are also on offer – and when you’re ready to unwind, you can indulge in treatments using selected cruelty-free products at Cute Spa.
Village Heights Resort
A short hop from Crete’s capital Heraklion is Village Heights Resort – Crete’s mindful retreat, home to an inviting range of suites clustered around its infinity pool and surrounded by lush vegetation, with views over Crete’s north-eastern coastline.
With its a nine-hole mini golf course, a spa with a pool, sauna, steam room, and children’s pools, there’s plenty to do around the resort during the day. Keen golfers will also enjoy reduced green fees at the nearby Crete Golf Club, while Stalida’s sandy beaches are within easy reach.
Village Heights is also home to two signature restaurants, serving up stylish spins on local specialities, as well a luxe indoor lounge bar and an outdoor snack bar by the pool.
Book your luxury Crete holiday to Blue Palace, a Luxury Collection Resort, Elounda, Cretan Malia Park or Village Heights Resort at ba.com
With British Airways Holidays, you can reserve your well-deserved break with deposits starting from just £60 per person and pay the balance in as few or many instalments as you like*. All package bookings are ATOL-protected (5985) and include a 23kg baggage allowance per person. Their Customer Promise is a commitment to quality and service which ensures that their hotel partners adhere to strict safety standards, you’ll get a speedy refund should your holiday be cancelled and there’s a 24-hour helpline if you need any assistance on your holiday – just some of the reasons why 92 per cent of customers say they would choose British Airways Holidays again.
*T&Cs apply. Deposit balance due 7 weeks in advance for long haul and 28 days in advance for short haul. Travel restrictions may apply.
**From over 27,000 independent Reevoo reviews in the last 12 months – as at March 2022
