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Kristian Johnson

Leeds Riva Blu restaurant review: Gino D'Acampo rebrand fails to live up to the hype

Leeds is spoilt for choice when it comes to brilliant Italian restaurants.

Salvo's in Headingley has built its unshakeable reputation over decades, The Station House Cafe & Bistro in Garforth is rated as the best Leeds Italian on TripAdvisor, while Zucco in Meanwood was one of just 11 Leeds restaurants included in the Good Food Guide 2019.

So if you like a lasagne or go mad for a pizza party, Leeds is the place to be. In such a competitive market, the standards are incredibly high and while the food at Riva Blu was reasonable, there is certainly better value for money elsewhere in the city.

Read more: The best restaurant in Leeds crowned

The revamp of Gino D'Acampo's city centre restaurant on Park Row has delivered a sleek new look. The pink blossom tree in the entrance is striking, while the enticing views through to the kitchen offer a glimpse of the giant wood-fired pizza oven.

My wife and I took a seat in the window overlooking Greek Street as the sun streamed in through the window on a warm Thursday evening. The drinks menu offers a great selection of beer, cocktails and non-alcoholic options and I sipped on my Birra Moretti as I mulled over what food to order.

A dish of giant green olives arrived within minutes and although the chilli and rosemary flavours were punchy, the olives themselves were a little hard and not as fleshy as I had expected.

We then shared a starter, the bruschetta with tomatoes, which was probably the highlight of the meal. The crunchy toasted ciabatta was soaked in olive oil and topped with fresh tomatoes and the generous helping of basil really lifted this dish.

In truth, it went downhill from here. As an adopted Yorkshireman, I was a little apprehensive at paying £18.50 for a pizza, but I thought: "When in Rome (or in this case, Leeds)".

When it was placed on the table 15 minutes later, I thought I had made an inspired choice. It looked great, with shavings of beef fillet and a big mound of fresh rocket dolloped on top.

But my first bite was disappointing. So was the second, and the third... Whereas the tomato bruschetta starter was bursting with flavour, this was at the other end of the spectrum.

The beef didn't quite have the salty, rich quality I was expecting and there were big areas of the pizza with no toppings at all. Having paid almost £20, I was expecting far, far more.

Spaghetti carbonara at Riva Blu (Kristian Johnson / Reach plc)

My wife's spaghetti carbonara was a little better. The smoky pancetta left a lingering, smouldering taste in the mouth, but the sauce was bland and the whole dish lacked a bit of oomph. Again, it seemed overpriced at £15.50.

The bill came to £63.80 in total and it's true to say that many of Leeds' Italian restaurants are similarly priced. The aforementioned Salvo's, The Station House Cafe & Bistro and Zucco aren't exactly cheap, but one thing sets them apart - their food is spectacular.

The same couldn't be said for Riva Blu. There was nothing particularly wrong with the spaghetti carbonara or the carpaccio pizza - they were both OK - but it certainly wasn't at the same impeccable standards of other Italian restaurants in Leeds.

If you're in the mood for an Italian, there are plenty of better options elsewhere.

The Bill

  • Cerignola olives - £5
  • Tomato bruschetta - £7.70
  • Carpaccio pizza - £18.50
  • Spaghetti carbonara - £15.50
  • Everleaf gin and tonic - £5.75
  • Pint of Birra Moretti - £5.50
  • Service charge - 5.80

Total: £63.80

Riva Blu, 11-12 Park Row, Leeds, LS1 5HD

Book a table online or call 0113 244 3220.

Thursday - Saturday, open 12 noon to 11pm. Sunday - Wednesday, open 12 noon to 10pm.

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