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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Radhika Aligh

La Sultana, Oualidia: laidback luxury in a Moroccan village you've never heard of

All rooms at including a tree house, are themed differently at La Sultana - (La Sultana, Oualidia)

White storks sitting on beds of samphire; colonies of pink flamingos strutting over water; and fresh oysters being dished out. It might not be what you picture when you think of Morocco, a North African country prized for its exotic souks, dramatic deserts, and lush Atlas mountains. Yet that’s what you’ll find in Oualidia.

This little gem on the Atlantic coast, is Morocco's best-kept secret, and La Sultana is the ideal spot to rest your feet and enjoy a dose of nature.

Where

Even the most experienced globe-trotters would likely struggle to tell you where Oualidia is (I had not heard of it myself before visiting). Yet, for locals, this small village has long been a popular hangout to enjoy cooler temperatures, surf, and devour fresh seafood at several of its seaside eateries.

White-washed homes line sleepy roads leading down to the coastline, where you can witness huge waves crashing against giant rocks from the cocoon of a much calmer lagoon, separated from the ocean by sand dunes.

The 12km stretch of the saltwater lagoon is a vital ecological site (La Sultana)

The 12km stretch of the saltwater lagoon is an important ecological site for bird migration, protected by the intergovernmental Ramsar Convention on Wetlands. It's along these quaint shores, brimming with birds, where La Sultana hides behind large palm trees rustling from the cool ocean breeze.

Style

La Sultana Oualidia is the more luxurious outpost of its namesake in Marrakesh, built in a traditional riad style. On the coast, there are no enclosed courtyards or mosaic-tiled walls, but open spaces bringing the outdoors in. Inspired by the Moorish fortresses from the south, the stone structure is palatial and robust, with cusped arches, dome-shaped roofs, rustic floors and an eclectic collection of paintings.

While the main building looks traditional, the lagoon-facing restaurant and the S-shaped infinity pool are pleasingly modern in style. Pristine white tablecloths are the canvas for Moroccan blue pottery in the beach club-style restaurant which is designed for enjoying oysters paired with a wine or two at leisure.

You will be entertained by the sound of waves at La Table de La Plage (La Sultana)

Surrounding the main building are manicured gardens, brought to life by olive, orange and jacaranda trees. There are also 30 different species of palm trees rustling with the slightest breeze and a large pond with koi swimming in it.

Food & Drink

One might think tagine, but La Sultana is all about the seafood. The menu here celebrates the freshest ingredients from the region, including fish, lobsters, crabs, sea urchins and locally sourced oysters. There are two restaurants, each distinctly set up for daytime dining and an evening of elegance.

As the name suggests, La Table de La Plage sits next to the lagoon, where the sounds of the waves entertain as you crack open the lobster and slurp up the oysters. In addition to an elaborate selection of seafood, there are local dishes like a samphire salad sourced from the shores of the property.

Indulge in the freshest oysters sourced straight from the lagoon (La Sultana)

Most of La Sultana's vegetables are grown on an organic farm adjacent to the hotel. Guests can walk between beds of tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, lettuce and chillies and have lunch on-site. In a small shelter, a table full of raw vegetables served with hummus and baba ghanoush, quiche, and freshly hatched eggs with Greek salad awaits. After lunch, a personal butler prepares fresh coffee to end the meal and serves it with nut-filled pastries.

La Table de La Sultana, the evening restaurant built inside a conservatory, serves fine dining plates with Moroccan and French influences. The menu includes hearty soups, more seafood and an elaborate wine list to complement the meat of your choice. Once a week, there is a barbecue night, dishing out food straight from the grill.

Facilities

At La Sultana, you are not short of activities, both inside the property and outdoors. There are two very generous-sized swimming pools: the S-shaped infinity pool overlooks the lagoon, while a large heated pool resides in the spa area next to a jacuzzi.

Morocco prides itself on Hammam treatments, and it's worth indulging in when in the country. Smothering you in plant-based mud packs and essential oils, the skilled practitioners will scrub from head to toe, peeling away layers of dirt to reveal baby-soft skin. The spa also offers a wide selection of massages and facials.

The indoor heated pool sits next to the spa (La Sultana)

Next to the reception is a glass-ceilinged library with velvet-upholstered chairs and sink-in couches. It's the ideal hideaway to tuck into a book and shut the world out. A selection of tomes in multiple languages decorate the walls alongside traditional artwork.

Experiences

The still water of the lagoon and the impressive waves of the Atlantic Ocean are inviting whatever mood you're in. Kayak, canoe or paddleboard at your own pace, and, if you're feeling adventurous, challenge yourself on a surfboard riding the ocean's currents.

For a more calming experience, hop into a wooden fishing boat and go bird watching. Depending on the time of the year, you could spot storks, herons, egrets, cormorants and, if you're in luck, even catch a glimpse of flamingos. Along the lagoon are seven oyster farms producing 300 tons of shellfish each year. You'll notice the submerged beds all along the lagoon.

For a more calming experience, hop into a wooden fishing boat and go bird-watching (La Sultana)

Which room

The main building, which extends over three floors, boasts 11 suites, a spa and an indoor swimming pool. All rooms, including the treehouse, are themed differently, but no matter which suite you choose, an intimate courtyard with a seawater jacuzzi and day beds are guaranteed. The Panorama Suite has influences from South East Asia, while the Treehouse room has actual branches forming the centrepiece.

Tastefully decorated in pastel shades and natural fabrics, each room feels airy and open, complete with a walk-in closet, a generous bathroom and plenty of windows flooding the rooms with light. Some rooms have better views of the lagoon than others, so it's worth checking before you book. The best sunset views are from the Lagoon or the Treehouse Suite.

All rooms and suites come with a private patio, a jacuzzi and day beds (La Sultana)

Best for

La Sultana is perfect for couples or families looking for a restful few days after a trip to busier cities like Casablanca or Marrakesh. With plenty of good food, this is also a destination for seafood lovers. There are several surf beaches across Morocco but, if you're looking for a quieter place to learn or catch your latest waves, Oualidia is a good alternative.

Details

La Sultana is a three-hour drive from Marrakesh and a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Casablanca. La Sultana can arrange transport from both airports.

Rooms start from £420 on a bed and breakfast basis. lasultanahotels.com

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