This autumn, a viral trend has swept social media platforms. So far, ‘hoa hoa hoa season’ has had several million hits on TikTok, a reference to our teenage obsession with the Twilight movies, and specifically to the song Eyes on Fire by Blue Foundation, which features on the film’s soundtrack. The ‘hoa hoa hoa’ sound is a direct reference to the moody vocals that carry the song, perfectly capturing protagonist Bella Swan’s (Kristen Stewart) melancholy romance with vampire boyfriend, Edward (Robert Pattinson).
But enough about Twilight, the reason the song is going viral now is because of the film’s dramatic, mountainous, and blissfully autumnal setting. In the US, fans of the film are flocking to Forks in Washington. While in Europe, there’s only one place to go to live out your Bella Swan fantasy: the Alps, of course. Specifically, the Swiss Alps’ Engadine valley in all its breathtaking glory. For those looking for an idyllic stay alongside the stunning scenery, Krone Säumerei am Inn is an escape that stimulates all of the senses — particularly the taste buds.
Where is it?
Situated on the Chamuera river, just a stone’s throw from popular resort town St Moritz, Krone Säumerei am Inn opened under the management of esteemed British Head Chef James Baron in 2022. Baron, alongside wife Natacha and a team of roughly 30 people, refer to the hotel as a ‘restaurant with rooms’, due to its impeccable array of culinary offerings — the result of Baron’s background in Michelin-starred kitchens around the world (more on this later).
The surrounding town, La Punt-Chamues-ch, is home to just 700 people and has one school, one butcher and one shop. Surprisingly, it’s also home to popular Swiss sportswear brand On, for whom Zendaya is brand ambassador, and this is where she shot the most recent campaign. Naturally, locals get a discount and most can be seen proudly wearing their On trainers.
Though the town offers a range of magnificent hikes, it’s also perfectly located for a day trip to Lake Como — a short drive from the Italian border — is 20 minutes from St Moritz, and about an hour from Bregaglia, where every house has a fairytale-style granite roof. Every October, Bregaglia hosts its annual chestnut festival (a delicacy in the region that will get you into trouble if you take them from the trees), and at Gonzalez Patisserie in Vicosoprano, you can even bake your own chestnut cake, bread and biscuits. Or, if you’d rather, simply sample the chestnutty goods.
Style
Originally a 16th century farmhouse, when Krone was restored in 2008, it was redesigned by architects Ruch & Partner, who developed a minimalist, elegant and pared-back style, furnished with stone pine. In truth, the woodwork is as much a work of art as the actual etchings that decorate the walls (by local artist ‘Not Vital’).
Upon entering the hotel, the smell of the pine takes over your senses, though in the most homely, soothing way possible. Like slipping into a forest of tranquillity. The sweet sounds of Norah Jones and Jack Johnson play through the speakers, only adding to the slow, Sunday morning ambience. By night, Norah Jones’ sugary falsetto is replaced by the river rushing by.
Which room?
All of the hotel’s 18 rooms are furnished with native larch wood, but for the fullest sensory experience, the Chamuera suite is named after the river for its close proximity. That said, you can still hear the stream from the first floor and every room is bright, airy and smells deliciously of soothing larch. Plus, the altitude has been known to help even the most troubled sleepers get a good night’s rest.
Food & drink
After just three months under the helm of Baron, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, La Chavallera (‘trading merchant’ or ‘pack horse’ in the local Romansch language) was awarded its first Michelin star. Having worked alongside Andreas Caminada at Schloss Schauenstein and at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong, Baron knows a thing or two about luxury dining.
The fine dining restaurant is mostly black in theme, with flashes of colour in the tastefully selected water glasses, as well as the food itself. The hotel prioritises locally sourced ingredients, artwork, tableware and even cutlery, made by a local blacksmith.
Surrounding the restaurant outside, blooms the ‘edible garden’, which is an ongoing project that Baron and team continue to experiment with. Sitting above 1000 metres means a climate very different to the one we’re used to in our English gardens. Early frosts mean that herbs and plants must be able to withstand the fast plunging temperatures; these include three Szechuan pepper plants, quince, sea buckthorn, barberry and myoga. Wife Natacha also happens to be a trained tea sommelier and plans to use the garden’s gifts for future tea pairings.
Inside La Chavellera, for Baron’s signature evening menu, guests can choose between four, six or eight courses. At this time of year, hunting season is in full swing and the venison is a must, served with blackberries and beetroot three ways. Other menu highlights include the ‘Bloody Mary’, a tomato ice cream appetiser, served on a bed of vodka jelly and celeriac garnish; a marmot bao bun served with apple and rosemary; the signature dish, a dehydrated pear ravioli, with brown butter foam, sage oil and mountain cheese; steak tartare served with fig and a caviar beurre blanc. For dessert, try the cheese. Though this isn’t your regular cheese board, it’s a cheese foam served with walnuts and honey ice cream.
Facilities
For à la carte meals, the Swiss stone pine lodges provide a cosy setting to indulge in ravioli, gnocchi, soup, steak, or even more venison if you want to make the most of it. As well as the two restaurants, the ‘Steiner Stuba’ (named after famed Swiss photographer Albert Steiner) is a lounge space complete with lavish red velvet sofas to decompress, whilst Baron’s personal record collection echoes around the room. Upstairs, a tiny sauna allows you to sweat away any anxieties, with a snowy mountain view to top it off.
Best for?
Krone is a dreamy, romantic getaway for those who like a culinary adventure as much as an outdoors one. For those who appreciate the vast, overwhelming beauty of nature, from the views and the wildlife, to the precious Engadine-specific ingredients. Krone provides an euqally enriching experience as a cleansing, refreshing one. It’s luxury, but with a Swiss minimalist edge that means quality is at its core.
When should I go?
As the season begins to turn during autumn months, the wildlife from the mountains seeks out warmer conditions and heads down into the valley, populating the rolling fields with cows, donkeys, horses, deer and birds of prey. The Engadin is a place that everyone should experience at least once in their lives, but for views that will truly take your breath away, the colours are never better than the autumn months. In October, when the leaves turn to shimmering auburn, gold and copper, the expansive horizons resemble an alpine sunset. So it’s worth booking ahead for next year to enjoy breathtaking views post summer.
Rooms from £225 or 250 CHF, including breakfast. krone-lapunt.ch
