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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Josh Barrie

Kokin: new woodfired Japanese restaurant to host dedicated bluefin tuna nights

Kokin: the restaurant will focus on woodfire cooking and tamae - (Kokin)

The Japanese chef Daisuke Shimoyama is to launch a new concept in east London next month, bringing woodfire cooking to the seventh floor of The Stratford hotel, in the space previously occupied by Patrick Powell’s Allegra.

Called Kokin, which translates as “past and present”, it follows Shimoyama’s omakase restaurant Hannah on the Southbank.

Shimoyama will use cherry and apple wood with Binchotan charcoal on a traditional Japanese grill to cook seasonal British produce and seafood alongside mountain vegetables and speciality ingredients.

The menu will feature the likes of A5 Miyazaki wagyu, grilled turbot with a stock made from its bone and Kyoto white miso, and bluefin tuna, of which there will be dedicated evenings. Bluefin tuna is considered a prize fish among chefs, and until 2021 was considered an endangered species. As such, it remains uncommon on menus, even today.

“Integral to Kokin will be a focus on sustainable bluefin tuna with dedicated evenings showcasing the respectful deconstruction and preparation of the whole fish,” an announcement said.

The fish will be supplied by specialist tuna fisherman Hajime Tanaka, with rich, fatty varieties from Spain and Portugal.

Elsewhere on the menu will be traditional sushi, similar to that served at Hannah.

Drinks will include sakes, Japanese-inspired cocktails and wines, while the space is said to be “design-led”, with plenty of wooden interiors. There will be space for 170 guests and two terraces with views across London.

Kokin will open on May 1 at the Stratdord, 20 International Way, E20 1FD; thestratford.com

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