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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lola and Tracey Davies

Knitted bathers and knickerbocker glories: a kid’s guide to Worthing

Worthing’s award-winning pier and long, pebbly beach are a far cry from Brighton’s crowds.
Worthing’s award-winning pier and long, pebbly beach are a far cry from Brighton’s crowds. Photograph: ianwool/Getty

I’m going to call this guide “The Importance of Being Worthing”, because my English teacher says that Oscar Wilde spent a summer here in 1894 – and wrote The Importance of Being Earnest in Worthing.

Only a 25-minute train ride from where I live in Brighton, Worthing’s where we come when Brighton gets a bit too busy. It’s a traditional Georgian seaside resort, with an art deco pier (which won Pier of the Year 2019), old-fashioned amusements and ice-cream parlours, a new big wheel and a lovely, long pebbly beach.

When the sun shines ...
It’s easy for us to get to Worthing from Brighton, but Londoners can get there easily too – the direct train from London Victoria only takes 90 minutes. This year, the Worthing Observation Wheel opened. At 46 metres high, it’s the tallest observation wheel on the south coast, and is open from April to October. While you can’t quite see my house from the top, it has amazing views all along the coast and across the South Downs national park.

‘You can’t quite see my house from the top, but it has amazing views along the coast and South Downs’’
Wow, the 46m Worthing Observation Wheel – visit at half-term Composite: Guardian/Worthing Wheel
  • The 46m Worthing Observation Wheel – visit at half-term

If you don’t fancy swimming in the sea then go to Splashpoint, a fun leisure centre with slides and a diving pool that is close to the beach.

For smaller kids, say eight and under, I recommend The Worthing Lido, a small amusement park with rides like the spinning teacups and the Disney Express train. My brother, sister and I always like playing on the 2p slot machines in the arcade.

Is Worthing worth it on a rainy day?
We don’t just come to Worthing when it’s sunny. Sometimes I like it more when it’s not, as it means we can go to the Dome Cinema on the seafront. It was called The Kursaal when it opened in 1911 and had a rollerskating rink on the ground floor and a cinema on the top floor. It’s a shame it doesn’t have the rollerskating rink any more, but I like watching films in the old-fashioned auditorium with vintage seats. My mum says it was in the movie Wish You Were Here, which was filmed in Worthing, and there’s lots of old cinema memorabilia in the Projectionist’s Bar.

Creepy crawlies and outdoor activities in the South Downs national park
Creepy crawlies and outdoor activities in the South Downs national park Photograph: Mischa Haller/Mischa Photo Ltd
  • Creepy crawlies and outdoor activities in the South Downs national park

On the way down to the beach, we pass Harold Pinter’s old house, and pop in to the Worthing Museum and Art Gallery. It’s free to enter and has loads of cool stuff, like piles of Roman coins and tools found nearby at Cissbury Ring, an iron age fort. I like the 19th- and 20th-century clothes they have on display – Mum always swoons over the sparkly Chanel dress from the 1930s. But my favourite bit is the cabinet of swimming costumes throughout the years. I think it’s crazy that people back then used to wear knitted bathers!

Getting hungry?
While I’m happy with candy floss and ice-cream, the folks insist on having something more substantial when we visit Worthing. The Beach House on the seafront is one of my favourite places. Located between the pier and the Dome, it has a sunny terrace overlooking the beach and serves posh burgers, lots of vegan and vegetarian things (for my veggie sister) and local craft beer for thirsty parents.

‘One thing I’ll never grow out of is a knickerbocker glory from Macari’s’  WorthingPier

If we don’t want to leave the beach, Mum will order a takeaway from Pizzaface, a cool Brighton pizza shop that has just opened in Worthing. They also like CrabShack, another little restaurant by the sea that serves fresh crab and zingy cockle popcorn. But for a special meal try Pitch on Warwick Street, which is run by local chef Kenny Tutt, the winner of MasterChef 2018.

Old-fashioned seaside treats
When I was younger, I loved riding a quadracycle, one of those big four-wheeled bikes with a stripy roof, along the seafront. But now I’m 13, it’s become a bit embarrassing to ride one with your parents!

One thing I’ll never grow out of, though, is a knickerbocker glory from Macari’s, a cafe and ice-cream parlour on the seafront that’s retro inside. Apparently it’s been open for nearly 60 years, and has always been run by the same family. Mum says the knickerbocker glory still tastes the same as when she was a kid.

It’s about a 15-minute walk from Macari’s back to the train station, just in time to catch one of the regular trains back home to Brighton.

All aboard
Up to four kids per adult can travel on most journeys for as little as £2 on Off-Peak and Super Off-Peak tickets with Southern (T&Cs apply). Find out more and book at southernrailway.com/kidsfor2

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