Norway’s 47 national parks offer locals and visitors access to breathtaking scenery and raw nature that few other countries can match. Visitors are free to pitch a tent, pick berries and mushrooms (just make sure you know what you’re doing!), and it’s easy to find quiet spots even at the height of summer. My personal favorite of the parks is Jotunheimen National Park, known for its scenery including northern Europe’s tallest mountains, epic glaciers, fabulous hiking opportunities, memorable road trips, and diverse wildlife. Reindeer, elk, mink and wolverines are among the species that call the park their home.
The name Jotunheimen means ‘the home of the giants’ in Norwegian and refers to Norway 23 highest mountains, all of which are located within the park’s boundary. Needless to say, you’ll spend much of your time looking up!
Planning a hiking trip
The problem with planning a trip to Jotunheimen is knowing exactly where to begin, as the park covers more than 440 square miles. The first question to ask yourself is what you want from the experience. Are you just interested in a road trip around the park’s perimeter? Or do you want to hit the hiking trails in the wilds of the park’s interior, perhaps even tackling the summit of Norway’s tallest mountain? If it’s the latter, read on.
More than 50 marked trails criss-cross the park with many more in the surrounding region. Peak season for hiking in Jotunheimen is July and August. The shoulder seasons of June and September can also be good although weather conditions may mean some routes are closed. Changeable weather should be expected at any time of the year. While there is so much choice, most experienced hikers want to tackle two of the most famous hikes not just in Jotunheimen, but in the entire country.
Besseggen Hike
The most demanding of the two is the Besseggen ridge in the southeastern part of the park. The narrow ridge towers between the Gjende and Bessvatnet lakes. One of the lakes appears emerald green, the other blue, making for a truly memorable experience. However, this is no hike for beginners. The 13km trail includes a total elevation gain of more than 3,500 feet and is an all-day undertaking. Even so, because hiking is so core to the Norwegian lifestyle, more than 30,000 people make the hike each year.
Galdhøpiggen, the top of Scandinavia
You might be surprised to read that the hike to the tallest mountain in northern Europe isn’t actually as challenging as the Besseggen hike. That’s because although the summit stands at 8,100 feet above sea level, the Juvasshytta mountain lodge from where the most common route begins is at an election of 6,000 feet and can be reached by car.
The quickest route can only be done with an approved guide as you must cross a glacier using a rope-assisted technique for safety. Experienced guides lead the 45-minute glacier crossing, the undoubted highlight of the hike, until you reach the summit of course. If crossing a glacier isn’t something you feel comfortable with, an alternative but longer route starts from Spiterstulen mountain lodge.
Where to stay
The condensed hiking season means you must secure accommodation as early as possible, as places are limited and fill up fast. The most popular locations are the mountain lodges from where the hikes to the summit of Galdhøppigen begin. Check out Juvasshytta and Spiterstulen for details of availability and rates. Many other cabins are dotted throughout the park and are suitable for overnighting on a longer hiking trip. These basic cabins are generally operated by DNT, the Norwegian Trekking Association.
Allemannsrett, Norway’s freedom to roam law, allows wild camping even in the national parks as long as care is taken and the ‘leave no trace’ rule obeyed. If you don’t mind roughing it for a few days, then this can make for a budget-friendly trip of a lifetime to one of the world’s most spectacular hiking destinations.
