The launch party for Lucky Cat Bishopsgate was glamorous. Gordon Ramsay was there. He did a speech beside an enormous tuna, which chefs carved next to a branded ice sculpture before handing out slivers under scoops of caviar. Glasses of champagne came around with fried chicken bao. I saw Joe Wicks on one side of the room, Emily Atack on the other.
A return visit on a quiet Tuesday night brought a different crowd. Possibly hedge fund managers and their… wives? First dates were happening, second and third, with couples dressed beyond anything I thought necessary for a Tuesday. Groups of pals who I imagine had come north from Guildford, or west from Basildon, were bedding in, sure not to spill gin on their leopard print. And selfies were happening in front of one of any number of elegant backdrops. As planes whizzed by and the sun melted into the horizon, memories were made 912ft up.
This tower, a mighty 62 storeys, monstrous against London’s rising skyline, is one hell of an attraction. From the roof terrace, not yet open, the Shard — though technically taller — is matchstick-like and appears inferior thanks to London’s dipping terrain. I hope the new James Bond (Tom Hardy gets my vote) ziplines between them soon.
After a martini or two, even better, I should think. Or a Negroni, the main event on the Lucky Cat bar menu. I tried a lemon and basil one to begin with. It was acid yellow and tasted like air freshener. But then I played “Lucky Negroni”, where the rolling of three dice decides the build out of six different gins, bitters and vermouths. I was fortunate: my second cocktail was excellent.
You have to have a bit of money about you to enjoy it here. More important still is that you mustn’t take London, or life, too seriously. This is Ivy Asia territory, standards a cloud or two above. So don’t paws for thought, it’s only a bar.
Bar snacks
Black Tap
4 Glasshouse Street, W1, @blacktapuk
I’m not sure there’s anything worse in food than OTT milkshakes. Sadly, a New York burger bar called Black Tap is striding into Soho, bringing what it calls “Craze Shakes” to town alongside what might well be decent burgers. One is the Big Apple Shake, which sounds like hell on earth: it comes with a cream cheese frosted rim, a Graham cracker crumble, a whole slice of New York cheesecake and a funfair-style toffee apple. I would rather die. After one of these, I probably would.
Raffles at the OWO
57 Whitehall, SW1, raffles.com
Themed food concepts aren’t something I enjoy either, but you might and that’s what it’s all about. The Drawing Room at Raffles London at the OWO is launching a new afternoon tea called Secrets & Spies, with a menu inspired by 20th-century espionage and the women who operated from the former Old War Office. From April 28 there will be delicate sandwiches, cakes shaped like pocket watches and plenty of champagne or tea to enjoy in impressive surroundings.
