As Leon Dame, the ghoulish, bony male model, staggered out under the puddle-splashed Pont Alexandre III bridge in January, John Galliano succeeded in creating the most impact- ful fashion show of 2024. It was the Spring 2024 couture collec- tion for Maison Margiela, and for the first time in years the models were modelling. That’s the work of the house’s move- ment director, Pat Boguslawski, the Polish actor, dancer and model. He explains how he got the job — and gets girls moving like creaky, wind-up dolls.
How do you get the models to walk like that?
I work with them for about a week. First I look at their outfit, John gives me his ideas and then he lets me go and speak to them. I make them look at themselves in the mirror — it’s very important they understand what they’re wearing and who they are. Then I walk next to them and show them what I think they should do — it’s all to inspire them. The models have been watching all the recent Margiela shows and know we want an original walk, too. They come ready, asking: who shall I be? What’s my character?
And how does it all work backstage at showtime?
During the show I’m next to John, speaking to each model before they go out. I make sure they stay in char- acter, reminding them who they are, showing them how they move. And I get them ready to kill it.
What is John doing?
He is watching the show. That’s his time to enjoy. I’ve never met anyone more passionate about what they do. Nobody is like him — trust me, I’ve worked with so many amazing designers. I always say, we should be very grateful we can still enjoy his creative mind. He is the king, that’s it.
It seemed to mark a stark shift from other runway shows we’re used to.
Yes, it was a massive reset in fashion. All the designers need to take note — we can still create magic. We need to be more brave. And just do better. Everything became so simple. Shows were not transporting us anywhere. I was watching some of the shows from the 2000s the other day and just thought: what went wrong?
How did you manage to nab such a niche role for yourself at the house?
I DM’ed one of their art directors on Instagram and said I love Margiela. I love John. I love what you do. Can we have a coffee so I can show you my portfolio? He showed John my work and I got a call that John wanted to meet me. That was 2018, and I’ve been working with him since.
What made you think of becoming a movement director in the first place?
It started with dancing, which I got into by mistake. When I was 16, in 2006, they opened a dance school in my home town of Åódź, near Warsaw, and my friend made me go. I just fell in love. The following year I moved to London for the summer to take more private classes.
Ah, how was London circa 2007?
It was my first trip — my first flight. I stayed for three months and was hustling. I was working in a club in Piccadilly Circus, cleaning the glasses. There were lots of British celebrities.
Favourite sighting?
Well, Girls Aloud were there.
And why is this the perfect gig for you?
I’ve always been into fashion. As a kid I used to watch Fashion TV, every single Galliano and McQueen show. For someone who lived in such a poor neighbourhood, it was a window to a different world. Until I was 26 I felt lost—dancing,modelling, acting.I had no idea where I was going. Now I thank God I had that background. Everything I did has built into my role today
