On Jan. 20, the inauguration day for President Donald Trump's term as the 47th President of the United States, Dr. Jill Biden stood outside the White House for the last time as First Lady. She and 46th President Joe Biden greeted the incoming administration's leaders in custom Ralph Lauren: Hers a jewel-tone, blue-purple wrap coat with matching gloves and pumps, his a dark overcoat and suit with a tie coordinating to his wife's palette.
Observers of the intersection of fashion and politics recognized the pointed message in Dr. Biden's palette for the morning. While her party was transferring power of the Executive Branch to its rival after a polarizing election, her hope was for a unified, collaborative nation—exemplified in a shade that blended the Democrats' and Republicans' signature colors, blue and red, into one.
This symbolic approach to dressing is one stylist Bailey Moon has carefully honed with the former First Lady over the last four years. Moon, who also coordinated Naomi Biden's wedding-day looks and works with a roster of celebrity clients, has quietly been the guiding hand behind each and every one of Biden's outfits. And their partnership was a historic one: In addition to dressing for customary FLOTUS events like state dinners and benefit events, she also got ready to teach as a college professor—a first for a First Lady.
The public nature and tradition of a White House office guaranteed millions of eyes would see each of Biden's outfits. So across both roles, Biden's looks were chosen with an emphasis on "timeless pieces": dresses and coordinating coats, or two-piece suits, that all looked "classic and sophisticated," according to Moon. Up close—or when a press release identified its designer—it would be clear they honored the fabric of the American fashion industry, too.
"From the start Dr. Biden was keen to support a diverse array of American designers," Moon says. "We were lucky to work with such a talented group, ranging from household names like Ralph Lauren to newer voices in the industry like Markarian, One/Of, and Marion Parke, a shoe brand based in Minnesota."
New York City-based Markarian was the first to appear in Dr. Biden's wardrobe, with founder Alexandra O'Neill creating a custom overcoat, dress, gloves, and mask for the 2021 Biden-Harris inauguration.
Special occasions allowed Moon, Biden, and Biden's tailor, Karen Chinchilla, to work with formalwear labels at the top of the fashion week calendar—and with long histories of dressing First Ladies. Those included Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Oscar de la Renta, who has provided pieces for every First Lady since Jackie Kennedy in the 1960s. But as a working teacher, this FLOTUS also had a rare opportunity to support everyday brands all American women can regularly shop.
"[She] was the first First Lady to maintain a paying job outside of the White House," Moon emphasizes. "With that in mind, we leaned on a wardrobe that was suitable for all kinds of events and environments. Brands like Theory became everyday staples for their classic and comfortable wear."
Dr. Biden wore versions of Theory's Etinette blazer and coordinating pants at least eight times while First Lady, including for Democratic National Committee (DNC) events. It didn't escape the brand's notice. "We are honored that Dr. Biden chose Theory pieces as her wardrobe essentials during her time in the White House," Dinesh Tandon, Theory Global CEO, says. "Dr. Biden reflects the energy, confidence, and sophistication that embodies a Theory customer." Likewise, former First Lady Michelle Obama also wore many Theory suits—including for a speech on the 2024 campaign trail.
She often used her wardrobe as a canvas for sending messages.
Bailey Moon, stylist to Dr. Jill Biden
While dressing for the regular demands of her work, Dr. Biden also recognized the platform of her position. Like many other women in politics (and other fields), she recognized fashion as a way to communicate. Moon was the person she trusted to help select the right symbol or reference for a highly-visible moment.
"She often used her wardrobe as a canvas for sending messages," Moon confirms. "Whether it was her ivory Gabriela Hearst coat with the embroidery of the flowers of all the states and territories sending a message of unity, or the sunflower added to her Lapointe dress as a display of support for Ukraine."
These looks encompassed one of her fashion sayings, Moon adds: "Fashion communicates without speaking a word."
At times, those messages came with the "honor and privilege" of tapping luxury fashion houses for custom creations. (Again, a time-honored tradition of First Lady fashion.)
"Designers are my celebrities, so anytime I was able to work closely with them it was a special experience," Moon says.
One favorite embodying Dr. Biden's ability to send messages while meeting the dress code was a deep blue Schiaparelli gown for a state dinner in Paris. "It paid homage to the French with the choice of design house, but Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, is an American," Moon explains. "It was diplomatic dressing at its finest and Daniel could not have been more gracious through the process."
The pair clearly had a deep appreciation for the people who crafted and stitched each outfit—and all the right color, designer, and silhouette could stand for. As Dr. Biden walked into the Capitol Rotunda for President Trump's official inauguration ceremony on Jan. 20, her coat appeared almost more blue than purple. It, like so many of her other fashion moments from the past four years, spoke for itself.
