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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Business
Kalyeena Makortoff

Jewellery, buttons and a conceptual bra: how the Royal Mint boss found a new source of money

Anne Jessopp, CEO of Royal Mint, wears a light pastel blue blazer, photographed by the 886 jewellery line
Anne Jessopp at the outlet for the Royal Mint’s jewellery line, 886. Photograph: Suki Dhanda/The Observer

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower in September, throngs of fashion elites were flocking to a makeshift catwalk along the French capital’s Avenue de Saxe.

Paris fashion week was in full swing. But as the likes of Vogue editor Anna Wintour and Olympic diver Tom Daley took their seats for Stella McCartney’s summer 2025 runway show, Anne Jessopp found herself fighting nerves.

The Royal Mint chief executive had spent more than a month preparing the 1,138-year-old institution for its runway debut: presenting an exclusive line of recycled gold necklaces, buttons and even a conceptual bra from its new moneymaker, the jewellery line 886.

The project was no easy task. The Royal Mint’s team of expert jewellers and former coin makers spent 600 hours handcrafting nearly 100 pieces at its headquarters in Llantrisant, south Wales.

But being asked to supply McCartney’s show was a coup for the 62-year-old boss of the government-owned British coin maker, who has spent the past six years developing new lines of revenue that could help the company stay relevant as the use of cash dwindles. Jessopp told the Observer it was a sign that the Mint was “really doing the right thing”.

The Royal Mint was founded in London in 886 to make the country’s currency. It forged and minted coins at the Tower of London until 1968, when the company – which is wholly owned by the Treasury – moved to Llantrisant.

The Preston-born economics graduate first joined the Royal Mint in 2009, having worked in the human resources departments of companies including Rolls-Royce, Procter & Gamble, and the RAC. She arrived at the Mint just as the government shelved plans for its sale.

Jessopp had been put in charge of supporting its transformation from a government agency into its own limited company, still fully owned by the Treasury. At the time, currency circulation was still its biggest business, accounting for about 58% of revenues and generating £10.7m in pre-tax profits, alongside a smaller commemorative coin division.

Fast forward 16 years and the circulating coins business last posted a £13m annual loss. It is a symptom of a years-long decline in cash use accelerated by the pandemic, when lockdowns and health fears cut hand-to-hand contact and boosted card payments. While cash is still used by many as a way to stick to budgets, the overall trend has taken its toll. This year, for the first time, Treasury officials did not make an annual order for new coins to be minted for general circulation.

That has prompted some hard decisions. For one thing, while the Mint will continue supplying UK coins on request, it emerged in April that it was pulling out of the overseas coin supply market.

It is part of a wider diversification strategy that bosses, including Jessopp – who was appointed chief executive in 2018 – have deployed to transform the business. “We didn’t want it to be on our watch that the Royal Mint cease to exist,” she said.

Diversifying the portfolio has meant growing some of its smaller businesses. That has resulted in a fresh international push for its commemorative coin range, and working to expand the appeal of its gold investment arm. The chief executive introduced gold bars starting at £100 and exchange-traded commodities (ETCs) via the London Stock Exchange to draw in more young and female investors.

But Jessopp knew more needed to be done. “We had to come up with some new businesses. We put together a team to look at what the opportunities were.” Some ideas – such as a Royal Mint-branded zip wire over the Bristol channel – never left the drawing board. But others stuck.

This included its 886 jewellery line. Since launching in 2022, with an online store and shopfront in the swanky Burlington Arcade in London, it has cornered a segment of the market interested in sustainable, British-made luxury items. And with bestsellers such as a £2,076 18-carat gold ring and a £345 quarter-sovereign pendant necklace, it has lured big spenders and now boasts celebrity customers including the actor Cate Blanchett, U2’s Adam Clayton and the musician James Blake.

But a need for a steady supply of sustainable gold also opened the door to another opportunity: precious metals recycling.

In August, Jessopp unveiled a “pioneering” factory that recovers gold from electronic waste, creating a more sustainable source of the precious metal for the coin manufacturer’s luxury jewellery line. The factory in south Wales, which has been under construction since March 2022, is designed to extract gold from up to 4,000 tonnes a year of circuit boards sourced in the UK from electronics, including phones, laptops and TVs, with the help of patented new chemistry created by Canadian clean technology firm Excir.

Jessopp says it now has the rights to set up factories with similar recycling programmes in other countries, potentially creating a new export for the 1,000-year-old firm. “We’ve got the international licence to run similar factories right around the world. So we’re working with Excir and another partner to look at what that will look like.

“We sort of have found ourselves at the forefront of a new industry,” she added.

The hope, ultimately, is that 886 – which is due to break even next year – would make up about 20% of profits in the long-term, with another 20% from the e-waste recycling business.

“We’re still investing in our new businesses. So this next couple of years, we’re going to still be on that crossover, but we’ve got a trajectory to be really moving forward,” Jessopp says.

CV

Age “In my second year of my sensational 60s.”
Family “I have a husband, Ian, and two wonderful daughters, as well as two lovely dogs and a geriatric cat.”
Education “I was one of the first females at the all-male Kirkham grammar school. I went on to obtain an economics degree.”
Pay “I’m so fortunate to be in a job with six-figure salary.”
Last holiday “A really special week in the beautiful Amalfi coast.”
Phrase she overuses “‘It can’t be that difficult’, which I know must be annoying for my team.”
How she relaxes “I live in a small town in the Brecon Beacons. I love a relaxing weekend eating at the local restaurant and shopping in our high street. I always have a project on the go and I love researching and making it happen.”

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