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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Hayley Spencer

Jenny Packham's guide to Amsterdam: the Pulitzer hotel & the vintage treasure trove she loves

When were you last in Amsterdam?

In November, to celebrate the launch of my Christmas tree collaboration with The Pulitzer Hotel. The tree found its home in the hotel’s garden, a hidden gem within the bustling city. We celebrated the occasion with a stunning candle-lit dinner in the Saxenburg Room, a space steeped in Golden Age grandeur. Beneath its glittering chandelier and surrounded by walls adorned with Dutch heritage, we enjoyed a feast that perfectly captured the magic of the season. The city, a Unesco World Heritage Site, truly comes alive during the festive season.

My lasting memory of the city is…

Allowing myself to get deliberately lost in the characterful Jordaan and Nine Streets neighbourhoods. There’s something poetic about wandering through these picturesque streets, discovering hidden gems, and embracing the city’s blend of history and modernity. At night, the canals reflect a constellation of city lights, creating an almost ethereal beauty. I love how the locals glide effortlessly along the cobbled streets on their iconic upright bicycles. It’s a city that balances serenity and energy with such ease.

The best thing about Amsterdam is…

The fusion of art, history and architecture at every turn. It’s a city where heritage meets innovation — whether it’s a 17th-century building transformed into a boutique, or a cup of coffee enjoyed in a café that marries old-world charm with modern aesthetics. Galleries showcasing Vermeer, Rembrandt, or contemporary artists only enhance this interplay of tradition and creativity.

(Pulitzer hotel)

The best place to stay is…

The Pulitzer Hotel, without question. This hotel is a masterpiece in itself, made up of 25 interconnected 17th- and 18th-century canal houses. It embodies the perfect balance of traditional Dutch craftsmanship and contemporary luxury. Its prime location in the Nine Streets places you right next to Jordaan and within easy reach of Amsterdam’s most iconic attractions. Beyond its design, the warm and welcoming staff make it feel like a true home away from home.

The best place to eat is…

Jansz is a standout choice. Its elegant, softly lit ambience is the perfect setting to savour dishes inspired by modern Dutch cuisine. They excel in showcasing locally sourced, seasonal ingredients in the most artful ways. For a more plant-based experience, Bonboon is a hidden treasure.

(Jansz)

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

Twenty-four hours is not enough! However, I would dash to the Van Gogh Museum to indulge in his mesmeric art for a few hours, before having lunch at the cosy Van Puffelen on the way to Foam — the photography gallery — inevitably stopping in numerous shops on the way. Plans for the evening would be challenging as there are so many restaurants I’d love to go to. Restaurant de Kas is always on my list. A greenhouse-style location where most of the ingredients are fresh from the garden.

What’s the one unmissable thing to do in your opinion?

The Van Gogh Museum. Standing before the Almond Blossom paintings, you can’t help but feel connected to the artist’s spirit and genius.

Favourite wellness spot?

The Beauty House is a haven of tranquility. Whether for a relaxing treatment or a quick blowdry, it’s the perfect retreat.

In what way do you wish your home city was more like Amsterdam?

There’s an undeniable calm that comes from being surrounded by water. The canals create a sense of peace, and the reduced reliance on cars fosters a more connected and sustainable lifestyle, with cycling at its heart.

(Alamy Stock Photo)

My favourite season there is…

Every season holds its own charm, but December is truly magical. The festive lights, the atmosphere of celebration, and the joy of finding unique gifts in the city’s independent shops make it an unforgettable time to visit.

A hidden gem I’m willing to share is…

Laura Dols vintage store is a treasure trove. The curation is impeccable, offering endless inspiration for anyone who appreciates vintage fashion and design.

The one thing I’d bring home with me as a souvenir is…

Either a vintage find or a design piece from The Frozen Fountain on Prinsengracht. The store’s curated Dutch-designed furniture and home accessories are effortlessly stylish and inspiring.

Where do you like to let your hair down?

Cecconi’s is a favourite for its vibrant yet relaxed atmosphere. And The Pulitzer Bar is fun — intimate and beautifully designed, it’s ideal for cocktails.

Who do you call to have a good time there?

My daughters!

A song that reminds you of the place?

A Windmill in Old Amsterdam. Maybe this song introduced me to the city when I was a child. I’m still looking out for mice with clogs on!

Your dress code there?

Comfortable shoes and layers of smart, muted tones with a few understated accessories. Amsterdam is chic.

Have you ever had an emergency or notable incident there?

Notable? Yes. But let’s keep that story for another time!

Building you would like to live in?

Huis Marseille, Museum for Photography is fabulous. Walking around its endless rooms with their high windows I imagine living there. It would be an amazing studio.

As told to Hayley Spencer

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