Jacqueline Bouvier (later Kennedy and then Kennedy Onassis), often referred to as "Jackie," had quite a style progression. We watched her grow from young woman to wife, mother, and First Lady—while her husband became President of the United States—and then a grieving widow, who retreated from public life for a time. In the '70s and beyond, we saw her change even further, as she took her classic '50s and '60s style and began to incorporate new trends into her look. It was honestly beautiful and fascinating to watch a fashion icon discover fresh ways to express herself through her clothing. Below, Jackie Kennedy's style evolution in photos.
1953
At the time of her wedding to John, Jackie was only 24 years old (Kennedy was 36). Here, the couple sits at the Kennedy compound a few months before, with Jackie in a formal dress. She would come to prominence during a time in which conservative chic clothing was in fashion—and she had a major influence on it.
1953
In a LIFE profile titled "Senator Kennedy Goes A-Courting," the two were photographed in and around the Kennedy Hyannis Port house. The Kennedys were avid sailors; here, John adjusts the rigging (in other photos Jackie sits and watches). Her nautical-chic shorts and collared top are extremely classic.
1953
In what some considered to be the society event of the decade (and perhaps of the century), Jackie got married in a ivory silk taffeta dress designed by Black designer Ann Lowe that was instantly and widely emulated—even though Lowe didn't ultimately get the credit she deserved, per Vanity Fair.
1953
The two were married in Newport, Rhode Island, with 800 guests at the ceremony and 1,200 at the reception (with some extremely high-profile politicians in attendance). This photo was taken at their outdoor reception, and you can get a sense of the volume of Jackie's dress.
1958
Apparently this is the "April in Paris" ball, an extremely star-studded event for its time. (In 1957, John, Jackie, and Marilyn Monroe all attended.) In keeping with her more youthful style, this look is sweet and simple, with her red lip matching the wrap or stole in her hands.
1960
Jackie, John, and Caroline relax in the countryside (likely in one of their New England residences). John Jr. would be born that November, two weeks after John was elected president. Here, the family would be relaxing in advance of John going on the campaign trail. We also see the seeds of Jackie's "First Lady" style.
1960
Here, pictured on election day, Jackie is by this point quite pregnant with John Jr. Her "casual" style included a number of very sharp-looking coats, including this trench, and we can clearly see the bouffant hairstyle that would define her years in the White House.
1960s
This undated photo shows us Jackie as we most often remember her: looking exceptionally polished, wearing understated but expensive jewelry, with her signature hair and a structured suit dress (sometimes with a blazer or jacket on top; this would also be the era of her pillbox hat).
1961
In one of her more famous encounters, Jackie stands next to Queen Elizabeth II as the two smile together after a dinner with their husbands at Buckingham Palace. Reports noted the encounter was "awkward," but the two women in gorgeous blue dresses—Jackie's a pretty baby blue column gown—were instantly memorable.
1961
Here, the couple is somber, with Jackie in a more "off-duty" style. Per the original caption, "President and Mrs. Kennedy are shown returning to St. Mary's Hospital late 12/20 where they spent most of the day at the bedside of Kennedy's father." Joseph Sr. would pass away in 1969.
1961
Here, Jackie is in London with John for the christening ceremony of Anna Christina Radziwill at Westminster Abbey. Jackie's sister, Lee Radziwill, was married to Prince Stanisław Albrecht Radziwiłł—who was a British citizen—and this was their second child. This dark skirt suit and pearls is very classically formal for Jackie.
1962
Jackie's famous Chez Ninon two-piece day dress is possibly one of the most famous pieces of clothing she ever wore—it was the suit dress she had on during the Valentine's Day televised tour of the White House that millions of people across the globe watched.
1962
The public was extremely interested in the young family living in the White House. Here, Caroline (wearing a medieval costume) and John Jr. sit while their mom attends to them; her casual style was still polished but allowed for more movement and flexibility.
1962
According to the original photo caption, Jackie is debuting a "new bouffant hairstyle" in this 1962 dinner hosted by the Australian Ambassador and wearing a gorgeous strapless dress. Jackie's formal wardrobe evolved completely while she was in the White House—which makes sense, given the events she needed to attend.
Circa 1962
Jackie and Lee Radziwill look to be on vacation here; per the original caption, they are at the "Pier of Amalfi, en route to Conca dei Marini beach via motorboat and then back from Amalfi to Ravello Villa." Jackie's vacation style was colorful but still structured and polished.
1963
Here, Jackie and John Jr. attend Easter ceremonies with the rest of the family (not pictured). Jackie had a particularly conservative style when she was seen attending church; sadly, this photo also notes that she is pregnant here (the baby would be born prematurely and die after less than two days).
1966
After John's assassination, Jackie largely withdrew from public life but still continued to be photographed during her travels. Here, she's visiting her sister Lee in Westminster, London, England, during a blustery spring day. By then she had embraced a different style, including softer hair and slightly more adventurous coats.
Circa 1968
Here, Jackie leaves a chartered jet not long after her second marriage to business magnate Aristotle Onassis. While the pairing was controversial, it helped Jackie establish some privacy and security for her family—and it also ushered in a new fashion era, with bigger sunglasses and '60s fashions.
1969
Here, pictured with Onassis, Jackie is out celebrating her 40th birthday at an Athenian nightclub. While the shape of the dress is similar to her younger styles, the bolder pattern, longer pearl necklace, and mildly higher hemline are all an evolution for her.
1970
In the '70s, Jackie was often spotted on the streets of New York (the paparazzi were pretty relentless) with a classic, but still new, style. She wore more pants and clutch bags, dipping a toe (literally) into some patent heels here with a chic scarf around her head.
1970
Jackie always had exceptional taste in bags, but she wore this Gucci so often that the brand renamed it their "Jackie" bag. With the contrasting colors and medium size, it's like a tote bag, but more elevated (and she wore it often while out and about, as seen here shopping with family in Capri).
Circa 1970s
Here, pictured outside The Colony Club, Jackie wears some traditionally '70s riding boots, vest, skirt, and signature oversized sunglasses. While she was a gifted equestrienne, this was probably more of a small foray into trendy styles (while keeping hold of her own personal taste).
Circa 1970s
Even when she was being bolder and more experimental with her style, Jackie never lost sight of what worked for her. She made good use of structure, as with this collared shirt and skirt, even when she was going for a bigger set of shades and '70s buckled shoes.
1971
This may be Jackie's most daring style—here, sighted at the Philharmonic Hall, her pantsuit and contrasting red scarf at the neck almost skew a bit menswear, in a good way. I actually really love it—with her brilliant smile, the whole look feels playful.
Circa 1970s
This is one of Jackie's most memorable '70s looks. She and a friend, composer Gian Carlo Menotti, exit the Quo Vadis restaurant in New York. The star of the show is, of course, Jackie's leopard coat, which is so much more graphic than her traditional style.
1974
Jackie, shopping in Soho, is embodying her chic '70s style: classic white coat, Gucci tote, shiny leather heels, and pants that look like they might have a touch of flare to them. And, of course, oversized sunglasses and scarf. Jackie's '70s style renaissance in this decade was a thing of beauty.
Circa 1970s
Honestly, this highly covetable leather coat (and Valentino belt, no less) wouldn't be out of place today. The structure of the outfit is still quite classic, with wide(r)-leg trousers and a simple turtleneck, which helps make the look feel less "of its time."
1974
Even Jackie's formal style evolved during this time. Here, attending the Metropolitan Opera House House Royal Ballet, Jackie's wearing a dress with a bolder pattern than we often seen from her. It even has a sweet keyhole cutout at the top. Her earrings are, as ever, terrific.
1975
As the original caption notes, Jackie is working here for the first time since she was a photographer for a D.C. paper. She's a consulting editor for the Viking Press, Inc. book publisher, in an extremely crisp collared shirt and (as usual) small but upscale jewelry.
1977
This pretty dress has a touch of the whimsy that Jackie exhibited in her more youthful style but is a more structured, tailored version. She's attending the opening of a show at the Costume Institute called "Vanity Fair" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
1980
This might be my favorite gown Jackie ever wore. She's at the Metropolitan Opera House, and her look combines all the signature attributes of her later style: beautiful structured dress in graphic black and white, conservative (but open-toed!) sandals, and a statement necklace.
1983
Here, pictured at an event at the main branch of the New York Public Library (she was active in cultural preservation her entire life), Jackie embraces a touch of big shoulder-pads and studded outerwear that helped define the '80s. Into her 50s and beyond, Jackie would go back to a more "traditional" style when out in public. She passed away in 1994 at the young age of 64.