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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Jessica Murray and Hannah Al-Othman

‘It’s overpriced tat’: Christmas markets divide opinion across the UK

A stag and Father Christmas statues, decorations and signage on top of stalls at a Christmas market
Birmingham’s Frankfurt Christmas market in Victoria Square and New Street in the city centre. Photograph: Christopher Thomond/The Guardian

The Halloween cobwebs had barely been brushed off the shop windows of Birmingham city centre when the German-style Christmas market, one of the largest in the UK, opened on 1 November.

Stretching over 500 yards down the city’s main shopping street and spilling out into the main square, for just over seven weeks dozens of stalls will sell bratwurst sausages, sweet treats, trinkets and beer – at £12 for a pint (including the deposit for the glass).

“It’s just not the same any more. It’s too commercial. It starts too early, and it’s got too expensive,” said Kate Jones, 46, walking through the market on her way home from work. “I’ve been working here for 20 years, and I’ve seen it get so much bigger. It’s not as intimate. I never really go any more, and I think a lot of people who live and work here feel like that.”

Christmas markets, bigger than ever and open for longer, are increasingly polarising opinion across the UK as some residents and businesses grow tired of the busy crowds and repetitive stalls.

“I wish they’d go back to how it used to be when it opened later – 1 November is a bit much,” said Hannah, 36, walking by on a Wednesday evening. “If every stand was its own independent stall, it would be better, but they just all sell the same stuff. It’s overpriced tat, but it’s fun overpriced tat I suppose.”

“Every six stalls is a marshmallow stall,” added her friend, Matt, 36. “And it’s so big it really does affect the whole city centre.”

Beatrice Douzjian, co-owner of family-run Ju Ju’s cafe in the city, said she thought it was “disgraceful” so much time and resources were given over to the Christmas market when small businesses were struggling.

“As soon as it starts, we notice there’s a lull in business,” she said. “It pulls trade away from small independents like ourselves but it doesn’t offer value for customers, with the same tat being sold across the market for extortionate prices.”

A similar issue is playing out in Manchester, where the night-time economy adviser, Sacha Lord, said that although 9 million people are expected to visit the city centre market this year, local businesses were losing customers to the Christmas stalls.

“The extra tourism is great but it can have a downside for pubs, bars and restaurants, which can see footfall decrease if they’re not located by the markets, or who just don’t get the benefit of all that foot traffic,” said Lord.

“City planners should be helping by keeping food stalls away from similar restaurants, but there’s also massive opportunities for venues themselves to create their own experiences that draw people in from the cold.”

Matthew Lockren from Pure Craft Bar and Kitchen, next door to the Christmas market in Birmingham, has felt the benefit, saying sales “double every year after it opens”.

“The opportunity for us as a business is massive,” he said.

In some parts of the country, Christmas markets have become too successful for their own good. The market in Lincoln, which had run for 40 years, was permanently cancelled last year due to fears about overcrowding, after attracting a record 300,000 visitors over four days in 2022.

Manchester’s Christmas markets began in 1998 with just a handful of stalls, later spreading to Albert Square, where European traders would flog their wares under the watchful eye of the famous “Zippy Santa” that adorned the town hall.

With the building under renovation, since 2018 the markets have dispersed further across the city, with 240 stalls this year. Many here say the range of goods on offer has declined, while prices have increased. Brexit has also meant more local traders take up pitches than visiting Europeans.

“I don’t even have to walk through it. You’ve seen one bit and you’ve seen it all. They used to have all different things, but now it’s just all food and drink,” said Michelle, 56.

“When they first started there used to be a lot of people from Europe,” her friend Lisa, 57, said. “Now it’s all the same. It’s too expensive for what it is; food and drink has gone up a lot.”

“They’re not a novelty any more because I’ve lived in Manchester so long,” said Caroline Durkin, 69. “But I love it when they’re arriving and there’s an atmosphere of Christmas starting.”

The markets also have an impact on disabled people, as their access to city centres is restricted by obstructions in the form of stalls and street furniture – as well as an influx of people.

In York, blue badge holders have been restricted from the city centre during Christmas market opening hours. “It massively impacts disabled people’s ability to access goods and services in the way that non-disabled people take for granted,” said Flick Williams from the campaign group Reverse The Ban.

After the complaints the council changed its policy. James Gilchrist, the director of environment, transport and planning at the council, said: “The council’s executive decided to establish blue badge holders’ access to the city centre during the Christmas market for two hours at less busy times. Council officers are now working with market organisers Make it York and other stakeholders to implement arrangements as soon as possible.”

A spokesperson for Birmingham city council said: “The Frankfurt Christmas market brings millions of visitors into the city each year, providing a huge economic boost and we are proud that the market also provides jobs for over 350 local people working alongside German staff.”

“We’re very proud that Manchester Christmas markets are the biggest Christmas markets in the country and are really pleased that since opening last Friday they have broken all attendance records,” said Pat Karney, a local councillor. “The intoxicating Christmas atmosphere across our markets is free for everyone to enjoy with no requirement to buy anything.”

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