Fort Lauderdale and South Florida were the go-to places at the height of the 1980s – all neon lights, rollerblading down the beachfront, rolled up sleeves on pastel coloured jackets, and nouvelle cuisine. I revisited Greater Fort Lauderdale after thirty years and I can tell you that while a lot has changed, it still retains the charm of a bygone era.
The sunshine state lives up to its name, and has gorgeous weather pretty much all year round. I went in October, the chill wind of autumn just starting in the UK, and the temperature there was 32 degrees. My flight was nine hours there, and a swift six and a half back.
Greater Fort Lauderdale has something for everyone. I spent two weeks there, swapping between adventure and sunbathing on the beach, and dining on the very best food.
Do
Tour the Everglades
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The classic wildlife adventure that only Florida can offer. A full third of the state used to be flooded grasslands, it’s now about half of that – 1.5 million acres. Once at the small Everglades Holiday Park you quickly catch an airboat. Buy a drink at the shop before you board, before the hour long tour through the wetlands and mangroves. See ospreys, vultures and if you’re lucky, an alligator or two.
There is a live alligator show back on land, with captive beasts that have been rescued from being put down because they were local urban pests. evergladesholidaypark.com
Take the Water Taxi
This charming mode of transport is as much a pleasure as a way of travelling from A to B. They sail up and down the intracoastal waterways between 20 stations.
You just hang around the stops until one arrives – roughly half an hour between each, at the most. It’s a very relaxed affair, sit where you want and listen to the amusing commentary – they even have a cool box of beers and colas.
The main attraction is the massive houses and yachts on the shoreline. The smallest one I saw, a very modest bungalow, went for $5 million. watertaxi.com
Get a culture fix
Bonnet House Museum and Gardens provides a portal to the early 20th century. Originally an artist’s house, there’s plenty of art, history and nature just north of the Hugh Taylor Birch State Park. Meanwhile, Stranahan House is the city’s oldest building and a journey through time. The little house tells the tale of a family and of Fort Lauderdale itself. It’s located on the Riverwalk in downtown Fort Lauderdale. The Stonewall national museum has a library, archives centre and exhibitions focused on LGBTQ+ culture and politics.
Fly the rainbow flag
Greater Fort Lauderdale is rightly proud of its social and ethnic integration. It is equally a third Latin, Black and White and is famously welcoming to the LGBTQ community. For specific gay bars, head to the Wilton Manors city area: The Eagle, Hunters and Alibi, among others, offer drag shows, friendly company and Happy Hours. eaglebarwm.com, huntersftlauderdale.com
Go to the beach
Finally, Florida isn’t Florida without its beaches. It has 900 miles of accessible sand. Wander up and down the beachfront in southern Lauderdale (or get the local electric shuttle Circuit – a couple of dollars, if not free), have a drink and a snack in the many bars and restaurants, and then relax by the ocean. Most places you will have to pay for a towel and umbrella if you’re not staying in one of the posh hotels looking on to the coast, so bring your own if possible.
Head a little further up the coast to Lauderdale-by-the-Sea and you get away from the huge glamourous hotels to a coast that must be like it used to be: small(ish) hotels looking straight onto the quiet, palm tree lined, expansive beach. Away from the bustle of the south, it feels like a holiday within a holiday there.
Stay
If you go to Greater Fort Lauderdale, you simply have to experience the Guitar Hotel at Seminole Hard Rock Hollywood. It’s massive, it’s a bit mad, and it is the height of luxury. It has a casino, multiple pool areas, a bar, breakfast restaurant and a shopping arcade. Naturally, the building is shaped like a massive, mirrored guitar. The rooms are stunning, with plush beds and sprawling views. casino.hardrock.com
Back down to earth, and the Plunge a little way up north, at Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, is a beautiful beachfront hotel. All the buildings here are low rise, a genuine trip back to the era before mega hotels.
The sandy coconut tree lined coastline leads gently up to the beach bar and restaurant and the spacious pool. It’s Family friendly, and for a little extra your room comes with an adjacent VIP adults-only smaller pool. The staff are excellent. plungebeachresort.com
Famous for its LGBT-friendliness, Lauderdale’s premier men-only hotel is The Grand, a couple of blocks back from the main beach. It’s knowingly modest – you microwave your own breakfast – and has three lovely private pools, surrounded by the two floors of rooms. It’s very sociable, and very secluded. thegrandresortandspa.com
For a fantastic mid-market hotel, go to the Kimpton Shorebreak. It has perfect little rooms, a buzzy late night bar and restaurant, and best of all, boasts a jaw dropping roof terrace. It has a bar (with food, natch), a restaurant – La Fuga - and a pool. And it overlooks the famous waterways, with its multi-million dollar waterside houses. The panoramic sunset is awesome from that height. You really do feel like a movie superstar up there. shorebreakfortlauderdale.com
Eat
If you’re in the Guitar Hotel, the food is superb. Breakfast in the Rise was perfect – the eggs Benedict were silky, the bacon crisp and golden, and just a few fried potatoes. It put our “English breakfast” to shame. It’s not expensive either. An amazing way to wake up.
Cipresso is a high end, busy (but not noisy), big, boldly designed in-building restaurant. The Italian food was exceptional. Have the sweet, smoky octopus, the crab and prawn pasta which is made in-house, the juicy, perfectly grilled ribeye steak and the inventively presented cheesecake. All a delightful treat. casino.hardrock.com
When you’re up in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, go to the Even Keel fish shack. Situated a shell’s throw away from the beach, this local area, which has a charming small town feel, is a million miles away from the bold new hotel strip downtown. The restaurant is a genuine local seafood place. Wonderfully relaxed but attentive staff.
Try the local swordfish in a coriander cream with handmade French fries, or go big with a whole crispy Yellowtail. Just sublime. evenkeelfish.com
Finally, treat yourself to a Michelin starred chef’s extravagance. MAASS is located in the heart of the posh hotel beachfront district. And it what you’d expect from Ryan Ratino, one of the youngest chefs in the US to hold a two Michelin starred restaurant. The truffle popcorn with parmesan and chive really could have satisfied me for the evening, and the mini lobster roll was sublime. The tuna crudo was deceptively simple but a rainbow of flavours. Then there’s striped bass in a rich, silky coconut broth, and the obligatory Wagyu beef bavette – just don’t ask the price…maassftl.com
Getting there
Virgin Atlantic flies direct between London Heathrow and Miami with return fares from £474 per person, including complimentary food, drink, inflight entertainment and taxes. virginatlantic.com
On arrival, take a super smart train called the Brightline, which nips up from Miami airport to Greater Fort Lauderdale. It’s spacious, clean and quick. No more queuing for a cab at the airport. gobrightline.com
