In Switzerland, the only winter blues are the hues of the sky and markers for denoting intermediate ski runs. Thus, February is a truly magical time to see and be seen in St. Moritz, the peak (pardon the pun) of all luxury alpine ski and resort towns.
The region is a magnet for enthusiasts of both skiing and après-ski, a French term that literally translates to "after ski" in English. The term is said to have been coined in the Swiss Alps in the 1950s and 1960s with the birth of modern commercial skiing and winter resorts as they are known now.
St. Moritz’s location, in particular, is so versatile for all kinds of guests and groups, from families to couples to groups of friends, with a multitude of activities from sports to shopping. Perhaps most surprising—especially for a destination known for snow-covered mountains in winter—St. Moritz enjoys an average of 322 days of sunshine per year.
And the surrounding Engadine Valley provides ideal conditions and facilities to suit every level of sporting proficiency, from bunny slopes to black diamonds: 500 kilometers (311 miles) of marked hiking and walking trails, 220 kilometers (137 miles) of cross-country ski tracks, and 350 kilometers (217 miles) of prepared ski runs.
In the heart of St. Moritz, the Kulm Hotel is considered to be one of the original pioneers of winter tourism, setting the standard for Swiss hospitality for over 160 years. Blending its elegant heritage with modern luxury standards, all of the rooms and restaurants (and even the spa and indoor pool) offer sweeping views of the Alps and lake at St. Moritz.
While more than a century and a half old, the Niarchos family (who have owned the Kulm since 1968) have invested heavily in recent years to ensure that the hotel offers a completely modern, five-star luxury hotel experience.
The Kulm Hotel has established itself as the hotel of “firsts” ever since it opened in 1856, when it originally opened catering to summertime visitors (winter tourism would come much later). For instance, Switzerland’s first electric light was switched on in the Grand Restaurant in 1878. And Switzerland’s first (and second) Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948, respectively, were staged in the property’s grounds.
The history of the hotel actually starts shortly prior to its opening. In 1855, hotel pioneer Johannes Badrutt rented the 12-room Pension Faller, which he bought two years later and turned into the Hotel Engadiner Kulm, creating the village’s first hotel and effectively laying the foundations for the Swiss luxury travel industry in the Alps. The property immediately became popular for summer spa and painting holidays, particularly among British tourists, who comprised approximately 75% of the guests at the time. By the 1890s, winter tourism had taken off, leading to the birth of the bobsled runs in the Kulm’s Park.
Most rooms have views over Lake St. Moritz and the Engadine Valley, while a few overlook the Corviglia ski mountain nearby. (Guests can even rent their skis in the hotel's ski shop, and there are shuttles to the ski area daily, when conditions allow the lifts and gondolas to be open.)
All the hotel’s rooms are designed in tranquil hues with premium fabrics and modern furnishings, while discreetly incorporating tech necessities (such as USB ports and lighting controls). Many of the rooms, including all those in the Neukulm building, have recently been refurbished by internationally renowned designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. And one of the signature touches of the Kulm Hotel is that all of its guest rooms feature locally-sourced wood paneling that still retains its soothing soft scent.
One of the biggest draws for the Kulm is the spa, which cost more than 12 million Swiss Francs ($13 million USD) to build and spans more than 2,000 square meters (21,529 square feet). And every Franc and every square meter really counts here.
The highly skilled Kulm Spa therapists provide tailored treatments that cater to each individual’s needs, using either the harmonizing power of natural products or new high-tech active ingredients from biotechnological research. And guests can have multiple venues to utilize, including indoor and outdoor swimming pools (including one just for children), a whirlpool, saunas, relaxation areas, treatment rooms, and a gym with studio room. And, if the natural products aren't enough, the natural views of Lake St. Moritz and the Engadine Mountains should help, too.
The Kulm Hotel’s sports facilities include natural ice skating and curling rinks, three tennis courts, and a nine-hole golf course. There are also 18-hole golf courses in the nearby towns of Samedan and Zuoz, where Kulm Hotel guests can play, subject to tee times. And the hotel is extremely family friendly, with a kids club that has a schedule packed with activities, free ski lessons offered to children under 12, and an enchanting and imaginative playroom for kids with babysitting services available.
The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz has several on-site restaurants and bars, offering guests a wide range of culinary options, from local Engadine specialities to international fine dining. The K, which is only open in winter, is now home to three-star Michelin chef Mauro Colagreco, an Argentine chef of Italian ancestry, who brings his award-winning cuisine from the one of the world's top restaurants, the Relais & Châteaux property Mirazur, in Menton, France to St. Moritz.
The Pizzeria is a more informal restaurant serving Italian favorites, such as wood-oven pizzas and pasta, and the Klum Country Club, which recently underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation, is just steps from the main entrance with a terrace overlooking the Kulm’s private ice rink in winter and tennis courts in summer—a perfect spot for an afternoon cocktail in either winter or summer.
The Kulm Hotel has six opulent event spaces that are suitable for a range of occasions, from small private parties to large-scale events of up to 350 people. Whether a corporate event or wedding, there is an in-house team who can help organize every detail, from room reservations to table decorations. And all rooms are equipped with state-of-the-art technology and have plenty of natural light.
Nearby the Kulm is its sister-property, the Grand Hotel Kronenhof. The heritage-protected luxury establishment is located in the heart of the idyllic Engadine village in Pontresina, a short drive from St. Moritz, and it is celebrating its 175th anniversary this year. While just as luxurious, the Grand Hotel has a much calmer ambiance, and hotel managers say many guests opt to spread their trips over both properties. For those who do stay at both hotels, the concierge at each can arrange a car service for traveling between the two.
First opened in 1848 as the Rössli guesthouse, the main section of the current hotel—a registered historical landmark—was constructed at the end of the 19th century in Neo-Baroque style, opening in 1898; it was at this point that the hotel was renamed the Grand Hotel Kronenhof and Bellavista. The property also established a wine shop in the cellars, which turned out to be a saving grace as tourism to the area was greatly affected by both World Wars, and it was the wine trade that kept the business here alive.
In 2004, Grand Hotel Kronenhof was bought by the Niarchos family, who have invested heavily in this property as well, with an extension then worth 35 million Swiss Francs ($38 million) completed in November 2007. Now the only five-star hotel in the village (which is seeing a considerable amount of hotel construction as of late), the Kronenhof has a total of 112 rooms and suites, a large underground car park, and a stunning spa complex (also covering more than 2,000 square meters) that features views of the Roseg Glacier. (Art lovers would also greatly enjoy both Swiss resorts as the Niarchos family has installed many works—from Rembrandt to Warhol—within their collection in public spaces in each hotel.)
Given the Kronenhof's peaceful nature and relaxing atmosphere—even in the public spaces during the day—hotel managers say they've seen an increasing number of repeat guests not only extend their usual stays but also work remotely from the resort.
"Before, people always thought meetings had to be present in the office, and the pandemic has really changed that," says Marc Eichenberger, general manager of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof. "People can communicate with Teams, Zoom, so it works very well that you don't have to be in the office. And a lot of people use their holiday apartments much more than in previous years."
Getting to St. Moritz is easier than one might expect as many U.S. carriers have direct flights into Zurich. From there, travelers can take a train directly from the airport (with connections) or opt to rent a car for a drive just under three hours when weather permits.And there is also the option for smaller aircrafts and private jets into Engadine Airport, just six kilometers (3.7 miles) from St. Moritz.
Winter rates (the high season) at the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz start at 885 Swiss Francs ($967) per night for two sharing a double on a half-board basis. (That includes a daily ski pass worth 45 Swiss Francs/$49 per person.) By comparison, summer months—considered the low season—are much more budget-friendly at 595 Swiss Francs ($650) for the same room, with complimentary access to the golf courses and mountain railway instead of the ski lift pass.
Starting rates at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in winter begin at 655 Swiss Francs ($716) per night for two sharing a double on a half-board basis (also with the daily ski pass included). Summer rates for the same setup start at 525 Swiss Francs ($574).
