Chicago has no shortage of great restaurants throughout each of its 77 neighborhoods. While popular tourist destinations like the West Loop and Lincoln Park often get the spotlight, those who don’t mind veering off the beaten path will find treasures in Old Irving Park and Portage Park on the city’s northwest side.
I’ve been following this neighborhood’s food options for more than a decade since so many residents of the area would venture east to Lincoln Square or south to neighboring Logan Square to meet their dining and imbibing needs. Wait they did, for restaurant owners and chefs to take a chance and open up restaurants and bars to rival their neighbors. Their wait has been rewarded because these last few years have brought a healthy dose of new places for its locals to try.
Frunchroom and Cochinita
Quay Tao has been killing it with the restaurants he’s been opening on this side of town. He started with The Portage in Portage Park which he has since closed and replaced with Cochinita Taco & Co., then he opened Community Tavern on Milwaukee Avenue which became a blessing for those of us who wanted a great place to dine and hang out with friends in a casual – slash – upscale restaurant. He turned over the reins to Community Tavern to the chef and his wife (more on that later) and focused his efforts on opening a new place literally right next door: Frunchroom (and if you’re from Chicago or spent any time here, you’ll know that a play on the words “front room”). Think upscale deli as the neighborhood café specializes in housemade charcuterie, smoked meats and fish, pastas and seasonal vegetables. It may become my new lunch spot.
ERIS Brewery and Cider House
After wondering if this place was ever going to open, the building even played host to a number of Chicago PD tapings last summer, it did and residents couldn’t be happier. The interior of ERIS Brewery and Cider House is stunning, with repurposed items being used as part of the décor and an old Masonic Temple Safe greeting guests as they arrive. But the cider is top-notch. The offerings rotate regularly (the Van Van Mojo, a blueberry cider made with Mosaic hops and one of my favorites) is not available right now but there are plenty of other options to consider. Don’t forget to order the beer cheddar dip with the pretzel. You can order it as an appetizer but you may not want to share.
Community Tavern
Husband and wife team Joey and Brenna Beato may have taken over Community Tavern from Tao, but they’ve since made it uniquely their own. While I always loved going to Community because I loved the atmosphere, the strong and imaginative cocktails, and the delicious dishes, it was still more of an upscale restaurant that we’d visit on special occasions. The Beato’s have put their stamp on it with equally-creative menu offerings but they also welcome children. Their Instagram and Facebook feeds remind us that family is important and kids are part of our lives so bring them along to dine with you. It’s a smart move, especially since many families in this part of the city have young children and it’s always nice to go to a nicer restaurant that welcomes them.
Old Irving Brewing
Before we had ERIS, we had Old Irving Brewing, a family-friendly neighborhood bar and restaurant and, if you felt inclined, play cornhole. The place is large enough to host larger parties or small enough to have an intimate dinner for just two. Bring kids, don’t bring them, it’s up to you. Watch football on the big screens or don’t. I love how versatile and easy this restaurant/bar is and it really has something for everyone. It’s a brewery, first and foremost, so expect a great range of beer on tap. Order a flight and enjoy several over dinner or catching up with friends. I must have a thing for pretzel bread because this place has a great housemade soft pretzel braid that is paired with a smoked gouda cheese dip and house beer mustard that’s not to be missed.
BRGRBELLY
BRGBELLY is tiny and can get busy, but it’s so worth the wait. Don’t blink as you drive by because you might miss it. It’s not located on any sort of restaurant row, but those in the know know how good it is and won’t stop bragging about their homemade buns or creative burgers. When asked which is their favorite, diners have a hard time narrowing it down to one, although several like the House of the Rising Sun which features a fried egg, cheddar cheese, smoked bacon and served with a Bloody Mary sauce. My recommendation is you order any burger with garlic parmesan fries.
Just east of the Kennedy Expressway are two more places worth checking out.
Shokran
This unassuming Moroccan restaurant has been here for years and I’ve made the mistake of trying to walk in without reservations only to be disappointed that no seats were available since they were booked. It’s that good. Shokran is more casual and intimate, although a back room provides more space for larger parties. It serves traditional Moroccan dishes, including kebabs and dishes in tagines. I’m partial to the Moroccan mint tea. The restaurant is cash-only.
Hearth & Crust
It’s hard to compete in the pizza space in Chicago because we have so many great pizza places. Yet Hearth & Crust has managed to carve a niche and get its slice of the (pizza) pie. Admittedly, the beautiful restaurant serves more than pizza. It offers entrees as well as pizza and a full beverage menu, too. If you have a hard time finding good arancini, come here. I love the warm puff bread it serves shortly after you’re seated. It feels like a little hug and you want to be mindful of how much you eat in one bite so you don’t devour it immediately as I’m always wont to do. When my family and I were there last, we had the margarita pizza and gnocchi pomodoro. The meal was lovely and so was the atmosphere at this cozy neighborhood restaurant.
Bread & Wine
As the name suggests, Bread & Wine pays special attention to its wine menu and even offers an on-site wine shop from small-batch producers. Whenever I’ve dined here, I’ve always opted for the small plates so friends and I can share several dishes together. Try the herb fries with garlic and malt aioli or the burrata and tomato. Leave room for dessert. The butterscotch pot de creme with lemon zest and candied pistachios is particularly decadent and satisfying after a long night. Or, opt for a glass of wine, an aperitif or dessert wine to end your evening.
Best of all, even if you don’t live in Old Irving Park or Portage Park. All of these restaurants are easily accessible off the Blue Line, making it easy for those staying in the Loop to venture northwest and try places beyond Chicago’s popular Restaurant Row (not that we don’t love those restaurants, too!). For all except Old Irving Brewing, take the Blue Line to the Irving Park stop; take the Blue Line one stop farther to Montrose to hit up Old Irving Brewing.
