Iceland's hottest ticket - volcano tourism

In the early hours of Sunday 21 March, the Eyjafjallajokull volcano, 125km east of Reykjavik in Iceland, sprang into life. It was the first eruption since 1823, and 600 people were immediately evacuated from the area, most to avoid potential floods that could be created by the volcano melting the glaciers that surround it
Photograph: Halldor Kolbeins/AFP/Getty Images

The eruption was clearly visible from Highway 1, the main road that circumnavigates Iceland’s coast, but initial fears about widespread flooding were unfounded. The eruption had happened not from the centre of the volcano, but a new crater sited between two glaciers at Fimmvorduhal. Because it wasn’t directly below an ice cap, only a small about of meltwater was created, and most residents were allowed to return home after 24 hours
Photograph: Steini Fjall

Almost as soon as the evacuation was over, the tourists began to arrive. British tour operator Discover the World operates a “volcano hotline”, sending a message to hundreds of people who had previously signed up, and offering them the chance to get up close to the eruption by snowmobile, superjeep or helicopter Photograph: Tom Robbins/guardian.co.uk

Observer travel editor Tom Robbins snowmobiling towards the eruption at sunset on Monday 29 March. Read his article about the experience in this Saturday’s Guardian travel section Photograph: Tom Robbins/guardian.co.uk

Approaching the crater by jeep, snowmobile or on foot, the snow suddenly turns black with the ash from the eruption
Photograph: Vilhelm Gunnersson/EPA

Tourists get to within about 500m of the erupting lava, which crashes to the ground in an endless succession of low booms Photograph: Tom Robbins/guardian.co.uk

The crater happens to be on a popular summer trekking route, which runs from the hot springs at Thorsmork to the famous Skogafoss waterfall. Thousands of Icelanders have made daytrips from Reykjavik to see an area they already know transformed by the eruption Photograph: guardian.co.uk

Children admire the spectacle, despite temperatures dropping below -25C after sunset Photograph: Tom Robbins/guardian.co.uk

The lava flows for several miles from the crater, at one point falling over a cliff in a “hraun-foss”, a waterfall of lava, which local experts say hasn’t been seen before in Iceland Photograph: guardian.co.uk

Helicopter operator Nordurflug has brought two aircraft to the nearby Hotel Ranga, from where they are running daily trips to fly over the eruption Photograph: Tom Robbins/guardian.co.uk

A return flight taking around an hour, including 15 minutes to get out on the glacier and look at the eruption, costs €310 per person Photograph: guardian.co.uk

The beauty of the eruption makes it easy to forget how unpredictable, and dangerous, the volcano can be. On Wednesday night a new fissure opened up, and 50 tourists had to be resuced by helicopter, unhurt but having had a nasty shock Photograph: guardian.co.uk

The area’s residents remain worried about further eruptions. Every time the Eyjafjallajokull volcano has erupted in the past, it has been followed within a year by an eruption of neighbouring Katla, a far bigger, more dangerous volcano. Katla’s 10km-wide crater sits below the Myrdalsjokull ice cap and an eruption would cause devastating flooding Photograph: guardian.co.uk

Discover the World (01737 218 809) offer three nights at the Hotel Ranga from £312, plus £190 for a four-hour snowmobile trip to see the eruption, or £282 for a helicopter trip. Flights to Reykjavik are extra and start around £204pp with Icelandair, including taxes.
Photograph: Vilhelm Gunnersson/EPA