'Kebab's done right' reads a sign in the window of the branch of German Doner Kebab (GDK) in Stockport. Perhaps it should read 'kebabs with hype.'
Ever since the now-well established chain opened its branch on the outskirts of the town centre in February last year I have been inundated with people telling me how great it is.
The expansion of the brand, which began life in Berlin in 1989, has certainly been rapid in these parts, with this branch in a former Carphone Warehouse store near Portwood roundabout adding to eateries in Fallowfield and Manchester city centre. But does it actually live up to its billing?
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It certainly makes an impression as you first walk in. The bright digital menu boards are a sharp contrast to the mostly black walls, tables and decor which give it a sleek and modern if not slightly cold and clinical look.
The self-service order terminals instantly give you the feeling you are in a fast-food restaurant as opposed to a back-street Berlin cafe.
Given I'm eating in, I order at the till and am given a buzzer to take to my table to alert me when the food is ready. It seems to take a while though it turns out the buzzer has to be placed on a marked part of the table with a sensor in order to work, so I end up waiting slightly longer than necessary.
You can get a kebab on its own for £5.99 or as a meal with chips and a drink for £9.99. I go for The Boss Box, which for £11.99 gets you a kebab, fries a drink and a side. Not that you really need it.
As the kebab itself is absolutely overflowing with meat, in my case chicken doner, and salad. It is so stuffed and laden so much with their three signature sauces that it falls apart just a few seconds after picking it up and I have to reach for my wooden fork to tackle it.
The menu describes the standard doner as their 'trademark' and a 'must try.' And the crispy toasted sesame bread it comes in certainly gives it that traditional German/Turkish feel. However, for me, it was just ever so slightly disappointing. Nice, but not spectacular.
It is greasier than I imagined, whether this is the meat or the sauces to blame is unclear. But for me it is the Spicy, Yoghurt and Garlic sauces, that they claim are all freshly made in-house - that do most of the heavy lifting in terms of flavour.
They are not what you'd find in your usual high street kebab house, with the spicy sauce being very tangy and vinegary whilst still having a kick. The yoghurt sauce also has several unidentifiable flavours running through it but they combine well together and definitely lift the kebab.
But when tasted on its own the meat, which you can see being shaved off spits through a glass panel behind the till, is slightly dry and bland.
For the side, you can have either chilli cheese bites or Doner Kebab Spring Rolls. Yes, you read that correctly. On the face of it they shouldn't work at all, especially with the very random addition of jalapenos inside. But they are pretty tasty even if a slightly unnecessary addition.
The fusion food does not stop there with doner quesadillas, nachos, paninis and burgers, including one stuffed with Doritos - also on the menu suggested the brand's commercial push may have seen them go slightly off-piste.
But there's no doubting they do the staples well. I also sample the Berlin Strasse, a beef doner kebab wrapped in a Lahmacun, a traditional Middle Eastern flatbread with a minced beef, tomato and parsley lining.
The bread was much thinner and lighter than the traditional kebab, yet still crispy, and the beef meat is juicier than the chicken, though I doubt it would stand out from any other kebab's house doner meat in a blind taste test.
They do wrap your chips inside with the kebab for good measure which is a nice little treat.
Overall, I'd say GDK is a welcome addition to the region's fast food offering, giving kebab lovers an alternative to the usual burger and chips fayre offered by high street chains. And it is a decent value for money compared But does it compare favourably to some of our best-known kebab joints? I wouldn't say so. And does it live up to the hype? Not quite.
