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Marie Claire
Marie Claire
Lifestyle
Sophia Vilensky

I Tried the BIAB Manicure Trend—Now I'll Never Go Back

Close-up shot of a BIAB manicure.

While a good acrylic manicure is easy to love, it can wreak havoc on your natural nails—especially if you're flaunting the latest summer nail trend. If you're looking for something gentler than acrylic nails, but thicker than an at-home gel nail kit, say hello to BIAB nails.

Pronounced bee-yab in the salon world, BIAB—or Builder in a Bottle—is a form of nail enhancement that combines the benefits of gel polish and acrylic. Also called structured gel (BIAB is a trademark of The GelBottle Inc., who invented the product), it's thicker and stronger than normal gel manicure while retaining that gel-like consistency.

"BIAB is a great choice for those seeking a long-lasting, low-maintenance, natural-looking manicure that promotes nail strength and growth," explains Juanita Huber-Millet, who uses BIAB at her salon, Townhouse, in Los Angeles. She discovered the product while researching innovative nail products that strengthen and nourish the natural nail. The benefits of BIAB—such as its durability, strengthening properties, and long-lastingness—made it an easy go-ahead.

Ahead, everything you need to know about BIAB nails from the nail experts utilizing the product daily.

What Are BIAB Nails?

BIAB, or Builder In A Bottle, is a nail product invented by The GelBottle Inc. Thus, BIAB nails are simply nails that have been treated by the product.

"Technically speaking, the reason The GelBottle BIAB is so amazing and has such good results is because BIAB has a thicker consistency than regular base coats so you can create the structure called an apex," explains Giorgia Cappella, Training and Education Manager at The GelBottle Inc. "The apex is the natural curve of the nail and is thickest at the nail’s stress point (the stress point can be identified when you gently press on the free edge of the nail—it's the white band that appears across the natural nail). Building an apex is a must when using BIAB to provide support to the nail's stress point and encourage strength for growth."

An assortment of the BIAB color selection at celebrity nail artist Julie K's Nail Artelier. (Image credit: Sophia Vilensky)

How Long Does BIAB Nails Application Take?

You apply BIAB just like gel polish: straight onto the natural nail with a brush before curing it under a LED or UV lamp. Bear in mind, a BIAB nail appointment will take a bit longer than a regular gel manicure. The process includes the normal manicure prep, an application of a base coat (you'll probably see your technician use BIAB rubber base), your BIAB polish of choice, filing and refining, and a final swipe of top coat.

The GelBottle recommends setting aside 90 minutes for a fresh set—plus an extra 15 minutes if you need gel removal.

How Much Do BIAB Nails Cost?

Depending on your location and how experienced your nail tech is, the cost of your BIAB nails will differ. Still, you can expect to pay between $40 and $60 for a fresh set.

"While BIAB may be more expensive than a traditional gel polish manicure, it is generally less expensive than other nail enhancement options like bio sculpture or hard gel," explains Huber-Millet. "It also tends to last longer than gel polish, which can make it a more cost-effective option in the long run."

How Do You Remove BIAB Nails?

BIAB nails last three weeks or more, but when you're ready for removal, a technician will use an e-file and acetone for removal. "The best way is to have a professional remove the majority, up to a thin base coat, with an e-file and soak off the rest with cotton soaked acetone wrapped in foil," explains nail artist Kaitlin Hughes.

Are BIAB Nails Better Than Acrylics?

While your manicure habits are totally personal preference, there's a reason many nail artists like to use BIAB over acrylic nails.

"BIAB is a great and easy option for people that want more shape and to grow out their natural nails gradually. It can also provide a base layer of structured protection for people with thinner natural nails, no matter if they want them long or not," explains Hughes. "I personally prefer to use BIAB over any other artificial nail enhancements because, while it does take some extra filing of the layer to remove it, at that point it soaks off just like gel."

Are BIAB Nails Better Than Traditional Gel?

BIAB differs from standard gel polish in several ways. For one, it is thicker and stronger than regular gel polish, which makes it more durable and longer lasting. "BIAB also contains ingredients that may help nourish and strengthen the nail, which allows the natural nails to grow longer and stronger," says Huber-Millet.

Are BIAB Nails Healthy?

While BIAB nails help protect your natural nail, you still need to practice nail safety.

Hughes says that clients should be aware not to pick at or peel up their BIAB—just like any other nail enhancement. "Especially since it is a more structured layer, it is going to be harder to peel off and therefore will do more damage to the natural nail if it isn’t removed properly," she says. "The best way to maintain BIAB sets is to use cuticle oil at least once a day, and stay on schedule to have your nails rebalanced and filled (not fully removed) every three to four weeks to avoid any premature lifting."

My BIAB Nails Experience

A before and after of a BIAB manicure by NYC-based artist Tara Haye. (Image credit: Sophia Vilensky)
Beauty writer Sophia Vilensky and chocolate brown BIAB nails with tiny cherries. (Image credit: Sophia Vilensky)

When it came to testing BIAB nails, the hardest part was picking a color. The rest was as simple as sitting down, sipping a seltzer, and letting my amazing nail artist (New York's Tara Haye) get to work.

While the process is a bit lengthy (the filing and refining step is still required), it goes by quick because the color is built into the product. There's no crafting, then shaping, then painting required. In fact, we had enough time for Haye to craft the cutest little cherries on my chocolate brown shorties. Hailey Bieber farmers market nails who?

Walking out of my appointment, I couldn't help but notice how strong my nails felt—there's no bending these babies. They're also as smooth to the touch as a traditional gel manicure and look pretty cute.

Meet the Experts

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