While the dust may have settled on Watches and Wonders 2025, its impact on my watch-loving habits has not. Many brands took to the show with a wide variety of new pieces in tow, showcasing the best of what they had to offer in the new year.
One evening, I sat down with the team at Grand Seiko. The Japanese brand has long been a favourite here at T3, offering stylish designs and exceptional finishing, along with some genuinely innovative tech inside.
This year was no different – it unveiled a new version of its iconic Spring Drive movement, which was even more accurate. In fact, those are only rated to shift by +/- 20 seconds per year making it the most accurate mechanical movement ever. So, without any further ado, let's take a quick look at the new models.
Grand Seiko SLGC009 Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Leaked just moments before the doors to Palexpo swung open, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is just about the most un-Grand Seiko thing one could imagine. a 43mm case diameter. 50mm lug-to-lug width. A 15.6mm thick case which is arched to wrap around your wrist.
For the brand who make beautiful, understated things day-in, day-out, this does feel like something of a departure. And yet on the wrist, I didn't hate it.
Look, no-one is suggesting you'd wear this with your best suit, but for what it is – an aggressive and sporty chronograph – this is a neat option.
Grand Seiko SBDW323 Purple Kiri
That's more like it. A 36.5mm case with a simple, elegant purple dial sees this elegant unisex watch fit snugly into what most people expect from the brand.
There's a manually wound 9S64 movement inside, which is accurate to within +5/-3 seconds per day. It's likely to be the release from the brand which goes most under the radar, but it certainly doesn't deserve it.
Grand Seiko SLGB003
This was the big one – the introduction of the most accurate mechanical movement ever made. It's called the Spring Drive UFA, and it's a masterpiece, with accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per year.
This model pops that feat of engineering into a 37mm titanium case, with a dial inspired by the beauty of ice forests. It's a magnificent looking thing, too – Grand Seiko make some of the best dials out there, and this is really no exception.
Expect this one to be a very popular choice.
Grand Seiko SLGB001
Take everything you know and love about the model above. Now swap the titanium case out for one crafted from platinum; swap the bracelet for a gorgeous crocodile leather example.
The result is three and a half times as costly as the standard version – and worth every penny. Look, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the base model, but this one is just... better. The dial, for example, is a deeper shade of blue, and it looks absolutely marvellous.
Limited to just 80 pieces worldwide, you'll need to be quick to secure one – and you'll be infinitely glad you did.
Grand Seiko SLGC007 Tentagraph
Last, but by no means least, here it is – my favourite Grand Seiko from the show. Why, you might ask? Well, it really comes down to external factors.
See, in a world where the waitlist for popular chronographs like the Rolex Daytona are longer than Peter Crouch's nightshirt, any viable alternatives deserve notice. And don't think this is just a cheap clone, either.
The Tentagraph caliber inside beats ten times per second and still offers 72 hours of power reserve overall. Make no mistake – that is fantastic.
The dial is also just lovely. The two-layer design is made to showcase the difference between rocky ridges and freshly fallen snow, and looks really divine on the wrist.
Priced at £12,850 / $14,100 / AU$21,000, it's far from a ludicrous prospect. In fact – given the wider market it sits in – I'd say that this is quite an attractive addition to the brand's range.
