Veganuary is upon us, one of the challenges many people attempt in the New Year after a gluttonous Christmas. I know many friends who remain vegan to this day after 'taking the vegan pledge' over the years. I've never succeeded myself, lured back to the dark side every time by cheese.
If you're giving it a go this year, Bristol is teeming with restaurants and cafes with plenty of plant-based options to whet your appetite. I was keen to see what illustrious breakfast spot The Bristolian had to offer for vegans.
The Bristolian is fronted by Anna Swift and James Marshall who first took ownership in 2013 and also run the successful Garden of Easton restaurant, which opened in 2021. The pair have transformed the once greasy spoon into a destination cafe over the years serving up enormous cooked breakfasts alongside burgers, freshly made cakes and cocktails.
Read more: I tried a vegan bacon sandwich compared to an actual bacon sandwich for Veganuary
Admittedly, this was my first time at The Bristolian despite a legacy spanning more than 20 years. The cafe is tucked away on a side road away from the main stretch of Stokes Croft, with customers led by a huge green sign directing you to its door.
Inside, the dining area is an explosion of colour from ceiling to floor with splashes of yellow and orange. Plants, vines and other greenery are draped across the ceiling to create a beautiful canopy over your head while you eat and the friendly staff were buzzing around to attend to customers seated both inside and in the heated outdoor space.
Having no idea of the portion size, I initially thought that £11.80 for the full English-style breakfasts was a little pricey. It's clear from just the menu description, however, that you'll get bang for your buck by the sheer number of components.
I have no hesitancy in admitting that 'The Vegan Bristolian' breakfast is one of the biggest fry-ups I've ever seen. The huge, round plate was piled high with beans, mushrooms and toast among other intriguing things. I b-lined for the mushrooms, which ended up being my favourite part, wonderfully soft and salty, cooked in something heavenly that I couldn't put my finger on.
The thin chip-like component you'll see is the aubergine fritters, something I'd seen done many times as a side dish but never on a breakfast. They were perfectly crisp on the outside and soft in the middle - an unusual, but welcome addition that would have sung with just a touch more seasoning.
Wondering how they've simulated scrambled eggs? No? Well, I'll tell you anyway - it's made by breaking up tofu (which has a similar texture) into chunks, something I'd had and enjoyed before. As a preference I prefer tofu scramble to be in smaller chunks, but the flavour and texture made it delicious. Nothing like the taste of actual egg, be warned, but wonderfully fragrant with a orange-y hue coloured by turmeric and tomato.
I didn't initially clock the potatoes on the plate as they were buried underneath a mound of baked beans. By that time, it was too late and I had scarcely any room left - but they were cooked and seasoned well. The same goes for the veggie sausage for me personally, another potato-based component.
The meal was washed down with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a flat white made with St Werburgh's finest Extract coffee for £2.80, with very skilled latte art from the barista. If you're a chocolate fan, you'll have to try one of their many luxury hot chocolates or spice up your weekend brunch with a cocktail or two.
I commend anyone who completes this enormous breakfast and I did see some people sharing one in the cafe, which was not a bad idea really. I'd definitely make the journey from South Bristol to order this again but I'd love to see a smaller version of their fry-ups on the menu sometime, as I felt guilty leaving food on my plate.
Visit The Bristolian seven days a week at 2 Picton Street, Montpelier, Bristol. BS6 5QA
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