If I were looking for a Sunday lunch in November and the next available date available at my chosen restaurant was February, I'd usually just move right on.
However it's hardly surprising that Nest, one of Newcastle's newest fine-dining restaurants (though those behind nest prefer the term "indulgent") which opened in August 2021 has such a long queue to try its Sunday roasts. A three-course meal is £25 without drinks, offering a more affordable meal out than the restaurant's lunch (£35) and evening (£59) tasting menus - £53 and £99 per person respectively with a drinks flight.
It is said on the restaurant's website that dining at Nest should be a happy and memorable experience, and that there's a warm, welcoming and informal atmosphere. With service that was unfussy and relaxed yet attentive from the moment we walked in, they nailed that.
Read more: Sunday Lunch at Heaton restaurant might be the best we've ever tasted
And it's surprisingly bright inside too, considering that the windows are lined with real tree trunks and much of the walls are black. Branches and flowers of what look like a cherry blossom hang over the bar - all of this together makes for a cosy yet classy feel.
But all of that is insignificant if the food isn't any good, so let's talk about that. As well as their own take on more traditional starters such as a prawn cocktail, there's salt and pepper squid and pulled pork spring rolls on the menu - and I chose the latter.
Having just one spring roll may initially seem disappointing. However, the pastry is wrapped almost solely around spiced pulled pork. The usual veg you'd find in a spring roll appeared to have exploded across the plate - with cabbage, carrots, peppers , onion and garlic making up the slaw.
The fresh taste of the veg was accentuated by soy sauce and coriander, while the pleasant burn from the sriracha lingered on the edges of my mouth long after our plates had been taken away. I'd struggled to choose between the spring roll and the squid - and the table by us ordering two portions of the squid confirmed that I'd be silly not to try that on a return visit.
My partner went for a goats cheese and red onion tart which they described as well-balanced - sweet but bitter at the same time. A bit like having cheese on a cracker with chutney.
For our main courses, I had the 16-hour braised Northumbrian lamb shoulder served with honey glazed carrots, greens, roasted spuds, mash Yorkshire puddings and cauliflower cheese, while my partner had the only veggie option - beetroot risotto, feta cheese, toasted pine nuts and rocket. It was slightly disappointing that there was no vegetarian Sunday lunch with all the trimmings, such as a nut roast, but we knew that was the case before we arrived.
For the meat course, the lamb was soft and succulent, coming apart as I ran the fork through it with little need for a knife. The greens were perfectly seasoned and the roasties were crispy and cracking on the outside.
I don't usually like mash but that was a highlight, all smooth and buttery, while the carrot was a decadent delight, slathered in honey and deliciously succulent. Some might say that cauliflower cheese doesn't belong on a Sunday lunch but what's the point of fine dining if restaurants don't break with tradition?
The cheese was gooey while the breadcrumbs on top gave it a nice crunch. Was it needed? No, but I'm glad it was there.
The best part for me was the jus, which I shouldn't have left so close to my wine glass as I picked it up on more than one occasion to drink (yes, the wine did a job too). A reduction of all the meats on the menu (pork belly and beef alongside lamb) with some red wine thrown in, my partner had to talk me out of asking to take some home to use on a yellow stick lamb shoulder I'd frozen from Sainsbury's the day before.
While we were enjoying our mains, I just can't get enough by Depeche Mode was playing and I could make some clever joke relating that to said jus, but I won't. My partner's risotto had "a lot going on" and they said that the flavours worked well together, and they described it as earthy, sweet, warming and comforting.
Our desserts followed after a short break, and my crème brûlée was sublime. It didn’t have the crack you sometimes get when you attack the layer of sugar on top with your spoon, but that’s probably because the cream underneath was thick and full yet still light.
My partner picked the white chocolate cheesecake with forced rhubarb (an out of season rhubarb first grown outside to toughen the roots before being places into forcing sheds, where the name comes from) and pistachios, which my partner described it as exactly what you’d want out of a cheesecake.
They did say that the forced rhubarb was an odd addition to the top, especially since it couldn’t really be easily cut. It added a bit of sourness - and since there was lemon curd on the side, they would have preferred more of that on top.
One topping that didn't disappoint were the toasted pistachios. They were a perfect counterpoint to the creamy softness of the cheesecake.
I should also mention that the white wine we picked, Soñadora Organic Airén, from Verdejo in Spain was a splendid accompaniment to our meal. I'm not going to pretend I know loads about wine, and it wasn't part of the restaurant's wine flight, we picked it because it was the cheapest white on the menu - and though it was dry had a strong honey flavour which we really liked.
We left feeling sated - we’ve done some Sunday lunch reviews and felt like we’ve swallowed a stone afterwards, but this was just the right amount. Some people berate fine dining establishments for small portions and whilst my dessert could fit in the palm of my hand, it was quality over quantity at Nest.
To sum up, expectations vs reality can sometimes change the way you feel after eating at somewhere with a good reputation. Nest met our expectations - we expected it to be good, and it was.
However, we weren't blown away. That said, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend for a Sunday lunch and we're looking forward to trying the tasting menu later in the year.
For more information on Nest or to book a table (you may be waiting a while), visit the website.
Where's your favourite place for Sunday dinner in the North East? Let us know!
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