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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Kate Lucey

‘I rediscovered Pembrokeshire and fell back in love’: readers share their favourite memories of Welsh holidays

A pair of puffin against the green coastal backdrop of Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire, Wales
If you’re lucky, you might get to see some puffins in Pembrokeshire. Photograph: WLDavies/Getty Images

Annie, 32, London
I love taking city breaks to Cardiff in the summertime. You can’t beat sitting in Cardiff Bay in the sunshine, having lunch while looking at the boats, and heading into town for a night out. Everything is within walking distance – you don’t have to trek across the city to get to another bar you like – it seems so much more manageable than the sprawl of London. One Saturday my girlfriend and I just followed the sun around Cardiff Bay from bar to bar, which seemed to coincide with all the happy hours – we got drinks and nibbles everywhere we went and always had a gorgeous view of the water. Also, being a huge Gavin and Stacey fan, I like going to Barry Island for the sandy beach, slot machines and chip shops – not just the Nessa tea towels I seem to buy every time I visit.

Honor, 63, North Yorkshire
I was first introduced to sea kayaking in Pembrokeshire more than 40 years ago. Exploring by kayak is fabulous; you’ve got hidden coves, sea cliffs, beaches and islands to travel out to and circumnavigate. Depending on the time of year, you have lots and lots of different seabirds; puffins if you’re lucky, but other birds as well. I’ve never seen a whale, but when you’re paddling around the coast you can find inaccessible little rocky bays and often a great mass of seals have hauled themselves on to the rocks to sunbathe.

The beauty of sea kayaking is that you see the landscape from a totally different perspective – you can just paddle around a corner and get a surprise. When we kayaked from St David’s Head to Porthgain, suddenly this tiny harbour appeared, with all the old remains of the slate works. We found a beach to pull the kayak up on to and wandered inland to find an ice-cream and a beer.

There are big organised campsites with electric hookups and amazing facilities, but there are also a great many small campsites, sometimes just little ones set up by a farmer, with beautiful views out over St David’s Head and Whitesands Bay. You can stay at one close to Ramsey Island and kayak around the island if you’re experienced enough. I just love it and keep going back for more.

Matias, 31, London
My husband and I were totally charmed by a hiking trip in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) national park. I loved how everything felt so lush and green, and having the Welsh language across all the signs made it feel even more of a distinct world. We were only there for three days as part of a bigger trip, but it felt farther away because of the emphasis on Welsh culture everywhere. It felt void of the gentrification of tourism that you now expect from most places. We took things slowly and visited a bunch of castles, too. It felt undiscovered, but deeply rooted in its own history and culture, and you felt the pride in the details.

My favourite memory was hiking all day, taking in the sun, and then stopping in a small town that had a pub with a lush garden, where we each had a pint and a packet of crisps that just felt like heaven after a long walk. We topped off the day with an intimate, candle-lit dinner at The Felin Fach Griffin. Everything was quaint, unassuming and approachable.

Rebecca, 29, Liverpool
I remember one holiday in the Llŷn peninsula in north Wales when I was hiking the Wales Coast Path to a beach, with a beer and some chips in hand. I went solo and felt completely safe and at ease hiking, exploring the area, and surfing. I found amazing beaches, great hiking trails and cosy pubs. I had good beers at the Ship hotel bar in Aberdaron, and it’s always worth stopping off at one of the Dylan’s restaurants on the way home for amazing seafood.

Amy, 42, Llanishen
I am utterly obsessed with Hay-on-Wye. I wish I could get there more often, but I’m so glad that I can now bring my eight-year-old daughter and see that she’s started to think it’s as magical as I have for so many years. It’s like stepping into a child’s fantasy book, and books are what the town’s all about! I’ve never been to the Hay festival, but I love going in quiet times in the spring or autumn when everything’s a bit more cosy, secretive and special. Even if I don’t buy a new book, I just love wandering in and out of the shops and getting hot chocolate. It’s bliss.

Lindsay, 35, Shropshire
My parents took us on holiday to Pembrokeshire every summer as a kid, and I rediscovered it during the pandemic and fell back in love! I’ve had some great holidays there with friends and took my baby there for his first holiday, as the beaches are gorgeous and it’s very tourist friendly. There are incredible views and it isn’t overcrowded or expensive.

It’s all about the sea for me – so many walks along the coastal path and swims in secluded little bays. I once had a seal swim up next to me, which was amazing in retrospect but quite a shock at the time!

What I love about Wales and Pembrokeshire in particular is that you’ll get every type of weather in a day, but it’ll all have cleared by tea time and you can have a pint outside, watching the sunset.

My most recent trip was with my family. My partner loves the walking and local beers, I love the swimming and the seafood, and our dog loves it all. Everywhere is so dog-friendly, it’s perfect for us.

I can’t go to Pembrokeshire without eating the lemon cheesecake at Wavecrest cafe, overlooking West Angle Bay. It’s also not a trip to the Welsh seaside if you don’t eat fish and chips on the beach – doesn’t matter if it’s sunny or tipping it down, they have to be had. If I’m there in the summer, I can’t go out without a bag of coins to make the most of the honesty boxes that are everywhere. I’ve bought everything from veg to flowers to cakes from them, and I cannot get enough of their treasures.

Hannah, 35, Penarth
I’ll never forget a trip I took to Bangor that made me feel like a flying tree squirrel! My boyfriend and I went zip lining over this ridiculously blue lake at Penrhyn Quarry, near Bethesda, and the staff were so good at their jobs – they put a sail on my boyfriend to slow him down, and added weights to me to speed me up. It’s the fastest zip line in Wales, and was so dramatic with Eryri (Snowdonia) and the mountains as the backdrop. We could see for miles. It’s one of the most stunning experiences I’ve ever had – I’m thinking of asking my friends to come back with me for my hen do!

Gabriella, 24, Llanrumney
One June we went west to Tenby for a spontaneous overnight break to take advantage of the hot weather – summer seems way more “summery” over there. My two-year-old loved nearby Folly Farm with its cute animals, soft play, old-style arcade and outdoor playgrounds – and my partner and I could have a rest and bask in the sunshine while he was distracted. Our hotel was just five minutes from one of Tenby’s many beaches, and that evening we jumped on a boat for a trip around the bays. At the end of the day we got scampi, thick chips and mushy peas and ate them on a wooden park bench overlooking the beach. It was the most beautiful, unforgettable evening.

Ian, 37, Bristol
I did the Dragon Ride on my bike one summer, from Port Talbot all the way up to Powys. It’s really for people who love biking and is pretty extreme once you’re out on the roads. There’s epic scenery as you cycle through the south valleys. I’ve done some amazing mountain biking in that area too, but this was a lot more intense.

I’ve also taken part in the Carten 100, an annual charity bike ride from Cardiff to Tenby. It’s way more relaxed than the Dragon Ride and is more of a “go at your own pace” event. If you time it right, you can see some beautiful sunsets on the coastline, and then celebrate with a few pints when you get to Tenby. I’ve only ridden it once, but now I want to do it every year!

For more information on holidays in Wales, see visitwales.com

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