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Liverpool Echo
Liverpool Echo
Entertainment
Jess Flaherty

I can't stop thinking about a £12 dish from Liverpool's new restaurant NORD - review

A swanky new restaurant has opened in Liverpool, and I was keen to try it for myself.

NORD, based in the city's thriving business district, is a beautiful venue complete with pops of rich forest green, pale pink, and deep, dark red in a variety of textures. There's a mix of seating on offer, with stylish pink bar stools, green velvet tub chairs, benches, booths and more.

The lighting isn't just lighting, it's practically artwork - huge 70s-style pendants kit out the ceiling, bringing retro elements firmly into the present day. Green foliage is interspersed throughout the space, bringing the outdoors in, which works to create a calming yet impossibly cool space.

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Upon entering the new restaurant - which isn't the easiest place to find, located just off Old Hall Street at the Plaza on St Paul's Square - the luxe and stylish décor immediately provides the wow factor, and I was hopeful the menu would do the same.

The menu is a little confusing upon first glance, as the food isn't categorised so it's not initially clear what courses are appetisers, starters, or mains. The servers explain the menu to guests, though I imagine they'll quickly get fed up with this concept - I know I would.

I get the idea of wanting a cool, stripped back menu, but is a subheading really so spectacularly "uncool", it doesn't warrant inclusion? Perhaps I'm getting old, but I don't want to have to have a menu explained to me before I know what to order. Still, the food listed definitely piqued my interest.

I loved the décor at NORD (Jess Flaherty/Liverpool ECHO)

According to the NORD website, the venue hopes to "celebrate Northern hospitality and heritage, friendly and engaging service, paired with a food and drink offering built on local relationships with our suppliers". The kitchen is headed by Liverpudlian executive chef Daniel Heffy, who "defines the style of cooking as 'Travelled British' – a nod towards his classic local roots and time spent in Scandinavia".

I wasn't entirely sure what to expect, but opted for a wood fired flatbread with truffle and kelp butter (an appetiser, £6.50), which came out promptly. The bread was almost cake-like in its consistency, and was satisfyingly springy and soft. The butter was quite subtle and I'd have preferred the flavours to come through a little more.

For our starters, both my friend and I chose the burrata with zucchini, mint and hazelnut (£12), which was quite possibly one of the most delicious dishes I've ever eaten. Normally, a plate of greens doesn't exactly summon excitement for me, but the rich, salty, green sauce drizzled over the top was utter heaven. Seriously, I want to lay in a bath of the stuff.

Burrata with zucchini, mint and hazelnut from NORD (Jess Flaherty/Liverpool ECHO)

The vegetables were soft and tender, and the cheese was decadent while still being light. I wish this dish came as a main course, because I didn't want it to end. My mouth waters whenever I think about it.

For our mains, we both opted for the fresh fazzoletti pasta with creamy roast leek and black truffle sauce (£14). Fazzoletti wasn't something I was familiar with before my visit to NORD, but its name translates to 'handkerchief', which is the perfect description of this large, thin pasta. The dish, accompanied by a side of roasted Jersey Royals with a knob of Café du Paris butter (£5.50), (because why wouldn't you pair carbs with carbs?) felt quite posh while still summoning all the comforting goodness so commonly associated with pasta.

For dessert, we decided to split the rhubarb and vanilla baked Alaska (£16), which looked spectacular but wasn't something we could fully enjoy - our eyes were definitely bigger than our stomachs. The generously heaped fluffy meringue was a little sickly after indulging in such rich dishes prior, so perhaps this would be more enjoyable if you've not had quite so many carbs.

The dreamy fresh fazzoletti pasta with creamy roast leek and black truffle sauce at NORD (Jess Flaherty/Liverpool ECHO)

The sponge cake was very cold and hard underneath the sweet, delicious ice cream, so it was quite difficult to get at, too. It's a huge portion and wasn't the easiest to eat, so it didn't take long before we gave up. If you've got a heartier appetite, then this is the dessert for you.

At NORD, there's an emphasis and commitment to local suppliers, with all fish and seafood supplied by Birkenhead-based fishmonger, Wards Fish. Other suppliers include Raby Nurseries, Growing @ Field 28, North by Sud-oust Charcuterie, Wirral Watercress, and Claremont Farm. Caterite in Cockermouth, which has one of the largest salt chambers in the UK, provides the fresh meat.

Baked Alaska at NORD (Jess Flaherty/Liverpool ECHO)

The team behind the venue have clearly put a lot of time, effort and energy into bringing it to life which is evident from the beautiful décor, the delicious food, and the relaxed atmosphere. I'll definitely be back - I need another plate of burrata with zucchini, mint and hazelnut because I genuinely can't stop thinking about it.

NORD is based at 100 Old Hall Street, Liverpool, L3 9QJ. For more information, click here.

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