On my first morning in Flatdogs Safari Camp, a cheeky little Vervet monkey was sitting by the tent waiting for me.
He gave me a look as if to say: "What do you think you're doing here?" I might have replied: "Having a lovely time, thank you very much."
The safari tent has a shower where you stand under the stars to contemplate life before a dawn safari drive.
On the first day here, there were two male bull elephants squaring up to each other a matter of yards away.
There was also a giraffe feeding high in the trees during a tour of the tree house accommodation which has dramatic views of the East African plains where you can see the wildlife wandering by.
That included a huge crocodile in a nearby swamp, basking in the early morning sunshine.
This was all within about 15 minutes of a guided tour from the ever helpful and informative camp manager Faith Musaba.
In short, it soon became abundantly clear that Flatdogs is a magical place to enjoy wildlife, and the beauty of this hidden jewel of Africa.
At breakfast I glanced over my shoulder to see a male elephant 30m away enjoying breakfast on the banks of the River Luangwa.
You can hear the hippo bellowing at each other in the early hours as they move around the waters.
As we contemplated a sundowner, a family of elephants stopped by with the female shaking fruit from the tree for a seven-month-old baby elephant.
They move freely around the outskirts of the camp. The simple pleasure of watching the spectacular wildlife on your doorstep is what makes a visit to South Luangwa National Park so unforgettable.
A main entrance, by a bridge over the river, is about five minutes drive down the road from Flatdogs (the nickname here for the crocodile).
During our first early morning drive there, the sun was coming up over the water as the fishermen in primitive wooden boats silently glided by.
They appeared untroubled yet risked their lives with the ever present danger of a crocodile attack. You can see their spotlights at night, an even more dangerous pursuit.
There were some close encounters of the elephant kind on safari; a family, two young with their mum, did not see the vehicle and came almost within touching distance before they moved away.
There was a similar experience with an adult giraffe, who posed up like a Hollywood star on the catwalk in the middle of the road on an open plain.
A group of three hyenas - again, within yards of our open-topped Toyota - also sauntered by; they had just eaten an Impala, with one still trying to crack open its horns for any marrow left inside.
Then came herds of Zebra, and hippos dozing in the morning sun. There were numerous sightings of our exotic feathered friends - expertly identified by Geoffrey Lungy, our guide - including the Fish Eagle, the national bird of Zambia.
There is a mid morning stop for a coffee by the banks of the river as the crocodile swims by, submerged like submarines, looking for prey.
They are allowed to go near the hippo as long as there are no young in close proximity, Geoffrey tells us, and gives a brilliant running commentary on all that safari here has to offer.
Sometimes, he would stop the vehicle and climb down to the dirt track to examine footprints - showing us where a leopard had used the same path, and giving an estimate on how long it was since he had passed this way.
On other occasions, he would spot a bird high in the trees, and talk you through the species, their characteristics and how often you might see them on our chosen path.
The knowledge of the guides adds so much to the experience of a Zambian safari.
No trip to South Luangwa would be complete without a visit to Nkwali, where Robin Pope Safaris offer game drives, walking safari for the adventurous and seasonal boating.
There Keyala Phiri - nicknamed Kiki - the general manager and expert guide led a night safari which began with a sighting of a leopard (South Luangwa is known as the Valley of the Leopard) and ended with the enchanting sight of baby hyenas in their hide after dark.
In between there were wonderful close ups with hippo - as we enjoyed a sundowner of G&T and Mosi beer on the banks of the river - and various birds of prey.
In the morning, after an excellent BBQ fish dinner, there was another beautiful sunrise and a pride of lions basking in the early morning warmth of its rays.
It is one of the most extraordinary aspects of safari here that you come so close to the wildlife.
Somehow do not feel under threat as even the giant cats ignore the passing vehicles.
Elephants wander by the camps and the staff are expert in keeping guests at a safe distance.
There is the feeling that the camps in the parks are not their domain, and the wildlife behaves accordingly; it all makes for an amazing experience, with stunning photos and a voyage into Africa which you will never forget.
*Flatdogs Camp is open from April 1-Jan 15 each year. It costs from $313 per person per night, including tented accommodation, all meals, 2 game viewing safaris, park entry fees, conservation and community fees, laundry and airport transfers.
Extras - drinks. Contact: info@flatdogscamp.com; www.flatdogscamp.com.
Rates at Robin Pope Safaris, Nkwali are from US$495 per person per night. Park Costs are $60 per person per night.
Rate includes accommodation, meals, laundry, safari activities (game drives, walking safari and seasonal boating), bar and transfers to/from Mfuwe Airport.
Go to www.robinpopesafaris.net to book or email info@robinpopesafaris.net.
