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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
Bageshri Savyasachi

Hunting the best for Canberra's Truffle Festival

Truffle hunting at Blue Frog Farms, Sutton - June 28, 2023 - Canberra Times (1)

An English Springer Spaniel, German Shorthaired Pointer, and an Australian Kelpie walk into a truffier. How long do they need to score kilos of truffles worth between $4000 to $8000? The answer is three hours.

Bailey, Pepper, and Henry are truffle harvester Gill Cummins' furry friends contracted to hunt this winter's gold at the Blue Frog Truffle farm. Their efforts help the Sutton-based family business supply black truffles to the Canberra region's annual Truffle Festival.

Co-owner of Blue Frog Truffle Farm Justin Haslam, right, with truffle harvester Gill Cummins and her dogs Pepper and Bailey. Picture by Sitthixay Ditthavong

After disinfecting boots and paws for biosecurity, a loving rewards-based system helps the dogs sniff out the freshest crop.

"The excitement of finding the truffle, my reaction, the treats, and the game at the end of the day motivates [the dogs]," Mrs Cummins said.

"Pepper likes a squeaky toy ... Henry just loves the food.

Truffle hunting is her "fun job" that only lasts 12 weeks.

"I work with my dogs, they're my workmates, I'm outdoors and that's my office," Mrs Cummins said.

According to her, a good nose, focus, and a quirky personality make the best truffle dog.

Gill Cummins uses a toy to keep her truffle dog, Bailey, committed to the hunt. Picture by Sitthixay Ditthavong
Truffle dogs Bailey and Pepper help harvester Gill Cummins find fresh truffles underground. Picture by Sitthixay Ditthavong
Bailey, a Springer Spaniel, gets pats sniffing out a fresh truffle. Picture by Sitthixay Ditthavong

"We need the dogs, we can't find truffles without them," Justin Haslam, co-owner of Blue Frog, said.

Truffle fungi grow on the roots of oak and hazelnut trees at his family's truffle orchard.

"It's such an unknown commodity. There's a lot of mystery that surrounds it," Mr Haslam said. "It's definitely a delight for a winter culinary experience."

He hopes to supply more than 30 kilos of truffles (worth about $60,000) for the Truffle Festival, from solstice day until late August.

His father, Wayne Haslam, was a big part of starting the festival 15 years ago. He also helped set up the Australian Truffle Grower's Association (now the Australian Truffle Industry Association), the industry's peak body.

Though the majority of Australia's black truffles are harvested in Western Australia, Mr Haslam believes the quality in Canberra is "much better".

"The truffle-growing climate in Canberra is exactly the same as the best places in Europe," he said.

Blue Frog has joined Southern Harvest Association and invited hundreds of primary producers and wine growers from south-east NSW to participate in the Truffle Festival.

"We're trying to promote local winter harvest and keep business thriving in the Canberra region," Justin Haslam said. "It's really created a lot of interest and we're very excited about it."

Local ranches and farmers' markets are welcoming visitors throughout the festival period. Wineries, cafes, and restaurants are also hosting food events to promote truffle toppings, ice creams, oils, and flavors, making the festival a must-attend for all Canberran foodies.

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