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Marie Claire
Marie Claire
Lifestyle
Samantha Holender

How to Unclog Pores, According to Dermatologists

Unclog pores.

Try as you might, following every tip on how to minimize your pores or using the best primers for pore-blurring will not actually change the size of your pores. “The number of pores you have, along with the size of each pore, is genetically determined,” Mona Gohara, MD FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist, tells Marie Claire. The only real way to make your pores (which are totally normal, by the way) appear smaller is to learn how to unclog pores.

The reality is: Pores can get stuffed up with oil, grime, grease, and dead skin cells. Leave all that grossness festering inside, and your pores are going to look larger and darker. Getting all that gunk out is, thankfully, a very doable task. We asked Dr. Gohara, along with board-certified dermatologists Mara Weinstein Velez, MD FAAD, Howard Murad, MD FAAD, and Lori Aliksanian, MD FAAD, for their top eight tips on how to unclog pores—and chances are you already have everything you need to get your complexion clearer at home.

How Do Pores Get Clogged?

A pore is essentially a little opening in the skin. Each pore has a hair follicle and a sebaceous gland responsible for producing oil. While the pore size is set in stone (sorry, but it's the truth), pores can get clogged and expand depending on your skincare routine, skin type, and daily habits. “The follicle can become blocked when oils, dirt, and bacteria accumulate inside the pore and expand the diameter,” Dr. Murad explains.

Having an oily or acne-prone skin type, not washing your face, or aging can all contribute to clogged pores.

How to Unclog Pores

There’s only so much you can do to unclog pores. Even squeaky clean pores are, still, pores. “The idea that you can get rid of the stuff in your pores is kind of a fallacy,” says Dr. Gohara. "People have this notion that their pores are large because they’re overstuffed with gunk, and they think if they remove that gunk, their pores will deflate and disappear.”

Such is not the case, but there are easy steps you can take to ensure your pores are as detoxed as possible. Follow these eight dermatologist-approved tips, and your skin will look clearer and your pores will appear tighter.

Do a Double Cleanse

This is maybe the best advice I could ever give you. Daily cleansing (but not over-cleansing) will help you remove pore-clogging dirt, oil, and makeup from your skin. If you want to take things a step further, try one of the best cleansing oils. These oils can clear away all that unwanted gunk and makeup while keeping the skin's good natural oils in a healthy supply. Depending on the oil you choose, consider following up with a foaming cleanser for a squeaky clean complexion.

Use a Pore Strip

Pore strips are a bit controversial in the beauty world. They are not advisable for those with sensitive skin, nor should they be considered a pore-declogging solution. But they can offer a momentary fix in a pinch.

The best pore strips will temporarily remove build-up, but they’re just a cosmetic band-aid—oil will come right back. “Your pores are like a bottle of soda—all these products do is take off the cap rather than empty the whole bottle. You’re still left with a clogged pore,” says Dr. Gohara.

Get a Chemical Peel

The quickest way to dissolve some of the gunk in your pores is with a chemical peel. You’ll want to visit the dermatologist’s office and seek out a glycolic or lactic acid peel. The skin-friendly acids found in a chemical peel are lipophilic—i.e. oil-loving—so they’re able to really penetrate the skin and dissolve dead skin cells, oils, and bacteria.

They won’t empty the whole soda bottle, to use Dr. Gohara's metaphor, but they’ll give you the closest thing to an “unclogged” pore as possible. Just be prepared for a little downtime; your skin might be irritated or a hint rosy for a day or two, depending on the strength of your peel.

Try one of the best at-home chemical peels if you want a gentler version.

Add Acids Into Your Skincare Routine

A skincare routine for unclog pores looks a lot like a skincare routine for acne. You want to use products that have salicylic or glycolic acid. “On the skin, these acids break apart cellular connections, causing dead skin cells to slough off,” Cheri Frey, MD FAAD and board-certified dermatologist, previously told MC while discussing the ingredients. “They have the ability to penetrate oil glands and unclog pores.” You can fix these ingredients in a cleanser, toner, or serum.

Try a Retinol

Alongside your acids, you can also incorporate a retinol into your nightly routine—it's an all-around anti-aging MVP. Along with the fine-line smoothing capabilities, retinol will amp up your collagen production and reduce the build-up of keratin debris to tighten pores slightly. While the long-term benefits are incredible, be cognizant of the purging period that can coincide with the first six weeks of retinol use. Scoop up a retinol at the drugstore or visit your dermatologist for a stronger, prescription version. (Editors note: Retinol sensitizes the skin, so apply one of the best sunscreens every morning.)

Use a Non-Comedogenic Moisturizer

It feels nice to be ahead of the game every once in a while. Instead of trying to unclog your pores, why not stop them from clogging in the first place? Look for products labeled non-comedogenic, a fancy phrase that ultimately means a product is way less likely to block or clog your pores.

Still, you’ll want to have an oil-free moisturizer in your routine. Skipping hydration just because you're oily will only make matters worse. “When we don’t moisturize, our skin realizes it’s dry—especially after cleanser. If moisturizer is not applied and hydration is not replenished, our oil glands will go into overdrive and produce more oil,” explains Dr. Weinstein.

Grab a Pore Vacuum

There is a way to suck up the contents of your pores. Do all dermatologists recommend it? No—but if your skin isn't sensitive (and you use one of the best pore vacuums!), you should be fine. "People with balanced, well-moisturized skin and very mild blackheads can try pore vacuums," says Dr. Aliksanian. "I'd recommend using just one pass to see how your skin tolerates the pressure and try using the lowest setting over the entire area the first few times."

We're also big fans of professional pore vacuuming treatments like the Diamond Glow facial or HydraFacial, which are performed by a licensed aesthetician.

Incorporate a Clay Mask

Clay masks are best for oily and acne-prone skin. They help absorb excess oil and draw out impurities. Just make sure to follow the instructions on whatever clay mask you choose—these babies can be incredibly drying, and you don't want to leave them on any longer than you're supposed to.

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