How to spend a day in Principe Real, Lisbon’s often overlooked centre of cool

Visit Lisbon

Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local

Lisbon has become such a popular destination for a city break that its central districts can, at times, feel saturated by tourists. Somehow – and thankfully – the crowds haven’t yet found their way to hilltop Principe Real.

Crowning São Roque, one of the seven hills across which Lisbon sits, this lively and leafy neighbourhood is just above busier Chiado and Bairro Alto, but its vibe is far more local and laidback. Instead of mainstream attractions, Principe Real’s appeal lies in its interesting shops, bars and restaurants (with barely a chain outlet in sight) hiding behind neoclassical façades, along with an element of counterculture as the city’s LGBT+ quarter.

Rua Dom Pedro V and Rua da Escola Politecnica – the one is a continuation of the other – are Principe Real’s main drag. The No 24 tram trundles the length of this boulevard; or get here via the Gloria funicular, which makes easy work of the ascent from Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon’s central artery.

Here’s how to make the most of this overlooked part of Lisbon.

Do

Park life

At the heart of this lively neighbourhood is the main square of Jardim do Principe Real. Stop at either kiosk for coffees and pastries, pause in the shade of its huge cedar tree, or browse the stalls selling high-quality gifts and foodstuffs from small-scale producers on Saturdays.

Read more on Portugal travel:

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• The best hotels in Lisbon

Going underground

Find out more about Lisbon’s historic water supply system than you ever imagined at the Water Museum

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History lies beneath your feet in Jardim do Principe Real. Find its fountain and descend the steps to the Patriarchal Reservoir. This 19th-century colonnaded cistern was formerly fed by the Aguas Livres Aqueduct, both of which are among the clutch of sites making up the Water Museum.

Green space

Hidden from view behind buildings, the Natural History Museum’s Botanical Garden is one of Lisbon’s loveliest secrets. Flowers, palms and stately trees fill the four-hectare plot with colour and texture. On sunny days, it’s a shady, birdsong-filled retreat from the bustle, trams and traffic on the thoroughfare.

Ave Maria

Save time for a guided tour of the beautiful Convento dos Cardaes

— (Visit Lisbon)

Was it divine intervention that saved Convento dos Cardaes? A rare survivor of the 1755 earthquake that otherwise flattened the city, this beautiful baroque church dates from the mid-1600s and has a remarkable collection of sacred and decorative artworks, including a finely gilded, carved wooden altarpiece.

Eat

Portuguese cuisine has lots going on for carnivores. Atalho Real is great for high-quality but reasonably priced feasts (the picanha steak or black pork are particularly good). The set lunch is just €15pp, best enjoyed in the leafy courtyard.

International flavours hereabouts include Persian, Italian and Austrian, but the pick of the bunch is Lebanese at Sumaya for delicious mezze and grilled meats. Try the rakakat (fried cheese-filled pastries), soujouk (spicy sausages) and smoky baba ghanoush (aubergine dip).

For a sweet treat, seek out authentic Italian gelato at Niva. Although Lisbon has lots of great ice cream, this is consistently outstanding. Staples include pistachio, peanut butter and fruity sorbets, with daily specials such as cremino (white chocolate and hazelnut).

A high point (literally) of the local dining scene is Lumi Rooftop, which is just down the hill into Bairro Alto. Small plates might include burrata salad, roasted octopus or pica-pau (mustardy beef stew), all with views across terracotta rooftops to the river.

Drink

Fire up your day with a caffeine kick (or even better, hot chocolate) at Bettina Corallo, a family-run chocolate cafe. Excellent coffee is served with a complimentary chocolate square to nibble, made on site with a bean-to-bar passion that’s entirely preservative-free.

Even if you’re not staying here, a cocktail stop at the Vintage Hotel’s rooftop bar is essential. For a local twist, sip a vini negroni (with Portuguese vermouth and Madeira wine) while admiring the views of São Jorge Castle atop historic Alfama.

Find a more local scene at favourites such as Imprensa, an oyster bar with great cocktails, service and snacks in a former printing house, or try Jobim for its friendly vibe, Brazilian bar food and the best caipirinhas this side of Copacabana.

Shop

Embaixada occupies a wonderful neo-Moorish building

— (Visit Lisbon)

Shopping malls don’t come fancier than Embaixada, which occupies the gloriously restored former residence of Palacio Ribeiro da Cunha. One of Principe Real’s most emblematic buildings, this 19th-century Moorish Revival mansion is packed with artistic detail – all the better for showcasing the dozen or so stores within. The focus here is on innovative fashion, design and lifestyle products from Portuguese brands: everything from sneakers and casual shoes to women’s wear and olive oil soaps. Don’t miss FV Concept Store for accessories, clothes and must-haves for the home.

Find more concept stores and independent boutiques along Principe Real’s main street. Be sure to pop into Livraria da Travessa (a thoroughly charming bookshop) and Mr Blue if you’re on the hunt for menswear.

Stay

Soak up the sun on the roof at The Vintage Hotel

— (The Vintage Hotel)

The Vintage Hotel is set back from the bustle but within steps of everything. A design-lovers’ dream, it’s all about moody colour schemes and midcentury-style furniture (including drinks trolleys with all the essentials for pour-it-yourself gin cocktails).

Another boutique property (though at a slightly lower price point) is Casa Oliver Principe Real, which overlooks the praça (square). No two of the 26 rooms are alike, but all have simple, retro elements and stacks of charm.

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