Known for their warm sub-tropical waters with rich marine life, golden beaches and exquisite hospitality, the Palm Beaches have serious allure for visitors to the Sunshine State.
The largest county in south Florida, they’re on a barrier island, made up of 39 towns and cities.
Thanks to a cargo ship running aground here in the late 1800s and spilling its 20,000 coconuts onto its shorelines, stunning palm trees now line the sunkissed streets, where the buildings are painted turquoise, honey blush, saffron, coral and pistachio green. The air is filled with the scent of seafood being prepared in one of the many high-end restaurants.
Reaching them via a quick hour and a half drive north from Miami airport, I explored from Delray to the Riviera Beach, sampling as much as food as I could along the way. I embraced plenty of sporting activities and snorkelling on the beaches - all while learning about the history of the area in its museums. Here’s how to make the most of a long weekend there.
THINGS TO DO
The first place you’ll want to head to is Delray Municipal Beach. Spanning one-and-a-half miles of golden sand and coastline, it is ideal for swimming, surfing, volleyball, sailing and snorkelling . Or, if you’re feeling less energetic, simply sunbathing.
If you’re an early riser, make sure to head to the beach to watch the sunrise with the friendly locals. It’s their daily ritual. The beach brings a certain zen-like state of mind as you ease yourself into the day ahead. It’s also a dog-free zone. Paddleboarding as the sun comes up over the horizon is a must.
The main street and the epicentre of Delray Beach, Atlantic Avenue is a bustling area offering art galleries, antique shops, boutiques, ice cream stalls and a plethora of restaurants and tiki bars, all with a view of the tropical flower and fauna. As night falls, the area comes alive with the crowds from bars and live music venues spilling out onto the streets.
The sub-tropical waters of Palm Beaches are home to a wide range of sea life and there is no better way to submerge yourself into it than snorkelling around Peanut Island or taking in a day cruise with Get Wet Watersports.
I was met by Captain Dan and his side-kick Nate (Dawg) whose knowledge and enthusiasm for the area’s sea life was infectious. After a brief ride out, our guided tour of the island’s clear waters took in hermit crabs, beautifully coloured fish and starfish. Sadly, the friendly local manatee eluded us. Next time…
Feeling sporty? Then visit Florida’s equivalent of Wimbledon, but with guaranteed sunshine! Whether you’re keen to break a sweat on one of the 18 courts or take a seat in the 8,200-capacity stadium to watch the professionals show you how it’s done in the open-air Delray Beach Open tournament, you’ll be well served with sunshine, snacks and strawberries at the Delray Beach Tennis Centre.
Or why not discover your inner child and relive the golden age of gaming with more than 150 vintage arcade games and classic American pool tables at The Silverball Retro Arcade. Once you’ve paid for a session everything is free to play on, and you can order drinks and snacks from the bar. Close your eyes and you can imagine the Fonz and his cohorts on the pinball machines. Happy days…
If golf is more your thing then stunning tree-lined fairways await on the 120-acre, 18-hole state-of-the-art Clubhouse at The Seagate club. Florida is well known for its golf courses and this is one of the most pristine you’ll visit.
Membership is eye-watering but, as if you stay at Seagate Hotel, you’ll be able to book a one-off round. If you’re a novice like me, you can take advantage of the PGS professionals who will help improve your swing on the driving range (or humour you as you take out chunks of the immaculate Bimini Bermuda grass, “FORE!”). Swing by the country club for a light bite to eat or more fine dining options.
If you’re in need of a bit of time out, head to the the Morikami Museum & Japanese Gardens for a slice of Japanese culture and to enjoy a mindful walk through the mile-long gardens. You’ll not only come across the odd alligator or iguana, you’ll also discover tranquil landscaped rock gardens, ancient sculptures and a stunning koi pond that concludes the walk.
An impressive array of immaculately pruned bonsai trees and quaint bridges help to immerse you into George Morikami’s vision of Japan in south Florida. The Yamato-Kan museum tells his unique story and hosts exhibitions and Japanese tea drinking ceremonies.
You can’t visit the town of Palm Beach itself without taking a stroll down Worth Avenue — the iconic shopping avenue that is home to luxury boutiques, art shops and some of the finest al fresco dining in Florida. My budget doesn’t stretch to Chanel, Gucci or Lilly Pulitzer but it’s fun to walk in the footsteps of the A-list celebrities who often frequent the area.
The mock-Mediterranean streets are enchanting and are home to many bars and restaurants where you can sit back with a coffee and a slice of pizza and people watch. Was that George Clooney?
It would be churlish not to learn about at least some of The Palm Beaches culture and heritage between beachside strolls and gastronomic extravaganzas. The best place to start would be The Flagler Museum. South Florida would have been very different without the vision of oil tycoon Henry Flagler.
The Whitehall estate, situated at the house he built for his third wife in 1902, now stands as a tribute to the man himself. A guided tour takes you from his humble beginnings to his invention of modern Florida as we know it now, looking at the transport, tourism and agriculture he established to put this area on the map.
WHERE TO STAY
The Seagate Delray Beach is a newly renovated hotel and is ideally located in the heart of Atlantic Avenue and just a shell’s throw away from Delray Beach with exclusive access to its private Beach Club and Mr Seas restaurant.
Each room or suite is spacious and styled elegantly with a nod to the nautical setting and with spa-inspired bathrooms.
Breakfast is served in the Gate Café (expect a 20-minute wait for cooked food though). The newly opened Bourbon Steak House boasting a Michelin star chef in Michael Mina. The courtyard pool, with hot tub, is surrounded by palm trees, making it the most idyllic setting for a morning dip as you ready yourself for one of the on-site spa treatments or massages. The gym and stretch room is available to all residents. The hotel also boasts a world-class golf and country club just five minutes away (the hotel offers transfers).
Situated in the centre of the Riviera Beach on Singer Island overlooking the Sargasso Sea, The Singer Oceanfront Resort — part of the Curio Collection by Hilton — is an Art Deco-inspired ocean-front paradise. It combines laid-back comfort with upscale charm and boasts a four-mile stretch of private sandy beach. Choose the seaview suite overlooking the pool for that morning sunrise view as you sip your first coffee. Bliss.
The centrepiece, however, is the al fresco patio bar, Top Shell, where its enthusiastic staff serve incredible cocktails. Next door is the hotel’s signature restaurant, Caretta Caretta (order the seafood charcuterie board — you can thank me later).
The hotel is ideal for both sun worshippers and water babies with parasailing, jet skiing, kayaking, paddleboarding and snorkelling all available. Or for those who like to get out and explore, Worth Avenue is just 30 minutes away.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
You’re spoilt for choice at the Palm Beaches with over 4,000 dining destinations offering dishes ranging from classic American to Mediterranean delights.
As you’d expect from the name, you’ll have a surreal time at Dada which is located in one of Delray Beach’s oldest buildings, with Dada-inspired décor and artworks both inside and outside. Devour grilled artichokes or The Starving Artist grilled cheese sandwich for starters and the Dada Meatloaf for mains. The warm banana bread with whipped mascarpone, caramel and cinnamon crunch will have your moustache curling at the sides in delight. Be warned.
Located in the design district of Pineapple Grove, Delray Beach, Lulu’s is the liveliest neighbourhood spot serving up contemporary American food with fresh juices and cocktails. The vibe is infectious and it is clearly an all-day destination for the locals to hang out and relax over good food and company. I opted for the steak frites with an 8oz New York strip with mushrooms, onions, fries, truffle aioli and peppercorn sauce. What followed for dessert was the largest slice of chocolate cake and cream imaginable. The portions are big even for America here, so do expect to undo your belt a little…
Overlooking the sea on Delray Beach, Mr Seas is the idyllic spot for an evening of oysters, seafood and caviar. The truffle parmesan fries with herb-lemon aioli are the perfect sharing dish to accompany your main. I opted for the seared swordfish with crispy chips on a sea of ratatouille, all washed down with a citrus gin cocktail.
Though the culinary highlight of the holiday for me was at Amar Mediterranean Bistro. Be sure to book in advance. Located on the buzzling Atlantic Avenue in the heart of Delray Beach, this charming restaurant serves up modern interpretations of classic Med and Lebanese dishes.
I started with several dips to share with my companions (the grilled halloumi and spicy harissa hummus served with warm flatbreads is a must) and finished with the Wagyu steam-skewered kebab, served with pickles, toum whip, sumac, onions and Lebanese rice. They offer an impressive range of wine, but their signature cocktails are second to none.
Nestled on the riverside of Sailfish Marina Resort, which is famous for its big game fishing with luxury yachts and acoustic musicians bringing the ambience, Sailfish Marina Tiki Bar and Restaurant promises the freshest local seafood. They buy directly off the fishing boats (you can even bring fish you’ve caught for them to prepare and cook for you). It was the most idyllic setting for our last evening.
I chose the blackened grouper fish with skin-on garlic mashed potato and asparagus. The chocolate mousse tower dessert was enough to feed our party of five, so I request additional spoons.
Truffle pizza anyone? Set just off Worth Avenue and surrounded by Mediterranean architecture and décor, Pizza Al Fresco is a cute Italian lunch or dinner destination. I followed a local recommendation and went for the tartufo nero pizza with shaved black truffles and truffle oil, as well as the herbed lobster salad ciabatta. I wasn’t disappointed. The added theatre of the glamorous sales models promoting the local boutique’s fashion added to the charming ambience.
The details
For more information on holidays to the The Palm Beaches visit thepalmbeaches.com. Virgin Atlantic operate flight virginatlantic.com
