Stockholm: a city of beautiful architecture, clean tap water, trend-sensitive Stockholmare, and mesmerising views of the Archipelago. The stomping ground of Ingmar Bergman, Astrid Lindgren, Ingrid Bergman, and Greta Garbo.
Also the city I called home during the formative years of 14 to 21. Since emigrating to London, whenever I now visit Stockholm, I do so with the nostalgia of an ex-resident, lying somewhere in between the expertise of the local and the wide eyes of the tourist. If asked what a visitor should spend a weekend in Stockholm doing, these would be the recommendations I’d share with close friends.
Restaurants in Stockholm that locals love
If feeling spontaneous, I tend to take a walk down Skånegatan on Södermalm. A short, very picturesque street, lined with restaurants, bars, and cafés. I also recommend Lao Wai in Vasastan: Chinese plant-based food with a stellar Ma Po Dou Fu. For sustainable comfort food and cocktails in a husky, dim, 1970s-inspired setting, visit Rosetta’s in Hornstull.
Lunch is best served at Stockholm stalwart Hermans near Slussen. Overfill your plate from their colourful lunch buffet, to enjoy out in their garden, with stunning views over the cityscape and the Archipelago. For aesthetically pleasing health food, whether breakfast, brunch, or lunch I recommend Mahalo on Odengatan, which in my experience has turned out to be quite the spot for local celebrity sightings, if this is your thing.
Stockholm is a fantastic falafel city. Walking home from a night out, it is tradition to do so with a pitta in hand. Any late-night open place will do, ask for extra tahini.
Where to go for cocktails
I was not exaggerating about the clean tap water. In fact, the very first thing I do when returning to Stockholm is fill a glass from the tap, drink, then fill another glass. Thirst has never better been quenched than by the Swedish tap.
Moving on to alcoholic beverages: for an aperitif with a view, I recommend Champagnebaren on Mosebacke Torg. Not for the faint of heart, vertigo is almost guaranteed on the small balcony overlooking the water and the city beyond, especially thrilling in windy conditions. Other spots for cocktails with a view are Gondolen and Freyja Sky bar, both in Slussen.
For cosy and bustling cocktails on the water, visit inclusive and friendly Mälarpaviljongen (with optional wild swimming in Lake Mälaren). And if going out out, try LGBTQIA+ nightclub Backdoor, followed, of course, by a walking-home falafel.
The coolest clothes and vintage shops in Stockholm
I adore shopping in Stockholm. Not so much for the actual buying of things (I am a natural born minimalist after all), as for the window-shopping. From the tiny vintage boutiques on Södermalm, to the designer shops on Biblioteksgatan, and across the floors of department store NK, my need for the pared-back Nordic aesthetic will be met. My favourite clothes shop is Swedish brand Toteme’s flagship store on Biblioteksgatan, with its ultra-Scandinavian simple luxury.
Second-hand interior finds are best sought around Medborgarplatsen, often quite affordable and always drool-inducing. For books, cluttered and atmospheric Söderbokhandeln on Götgatan, followed by a visit to closeby Press Stop: an excellent little shop for magazines, and where I turn for my biannual fix of Scandinavian fashion and interior magazines.
The Stockholm must-do activities
The most fascinating Stockholm activity, in my opinion, is people watching. A day of walking around Södermalm will offer some of the best outfit watching in the world in my, granted highly biased, opinion. Starting out around modish Nytorget, via Medborgarplatsen, with a quick pit stop for takeaway ice cream at Stikki Nikki on Götgatsbacken, then through Slussen and Gamla Stan (Old Town), turning west along the promenade of Norr Mälarstrand, perhaps ending with a dip in the lake and a glass of Champagne at Mälarpaviljongen, why not.
For a child-friendly day out: Djurgården. This central pleasure island houses the charming theme park Gröna Lund, a Stockholm icon, but also many family-oriented museums and the gorgeous garden Rosendahls Trädgård, with its lovely outdoor café and hedge maze.
For art lovers, I recommend Moderna Museet and Fotografiska Museet. Out in the Archipelago, art museum Artipelag is a fantastic space, not just for the art, but even more so for its architecture, and the stunning seaside boardwalk with its typical Stockholm nature: pine trees, seaweed-slick cliffs, traditional island ferries, and the shriek of seagulls. I highly recommend boarding one of said Archipelago ferries. Many have on-board bistros and the city is even more handsome viewed from the deck of a boat.
Where to stay in Stockholm
For a great location, and mouthwatering interior design, Ett Hem on Östermalm is a townhouse turned luxury hotel with classic Swedish fin de siècle finishes and decor. A more modern option is Story Hotel on Riddargatan, with a cocktail bar and Asian fusion restaurant well worth a visit.
More affordable accommodation, and my own preference if not staying with family or friends, is to book one of Stockholm’s many good quality vacation rentals. There are beautifully decorated small apartments aplenty, and usually for a surprisingly good price. I would always recommend making the southern island Södermalm your base, for its cosy, calm, trendy atmosphere, abundant in cute cafés and hole-in-the-wall vintage shops.
For a piece of Stockholm cinema history: check in to Strand Hotell. Rumour has it one specific room at Strand was the favourite not only of Ingrid Bergman, but Greta Garbo as well.
What A Time To Be Alive by Jenny Mustard is out 24 April, RRP £18.99 (Sceptre)
