Miracle on 34th Street has a lot to answer for in New York. Come Thanksgiving, there’s magic in the air and this city unashamedly becomes an all-singing, all-dancing Tinseltown that could give Lapland a run for its money. It’s busy, it’s brash, and it’s most definitely kitsch, but NYC’s Christmas spirit is infectious. Visiting the Big Apple between Thanksgiving and New Year is your ticket to the greatest festive show on earth.
Life-size angels serenade the skyscrapers, bell-ringing Salvation Army buskers coax smiles from reluctant commuters and Christmas markets vie with ice rinks for tourist dollars. Visitors can expect carol singing, baubles the size of taxis (and sparkly taxi-shaped baubles), plus world-famous Christmas trees and enough lights to mimic a midnight sun.
Here’s how to find Christmas nirvana in New York City.
The basics
NYC is heaving in the run-up to Christmas. You’ll need to book tables for dinner, make reservations for drinks and prepare for queues and crowds. Not to mention wrapping up warm: although average daytime temperatures in December are around 7C, it’s not uncommon for cold snaps to send the mercury plummeting below zero. New Year’s Eve 2017 saw a low of -13C, the lowest recorded temperature that year.
Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade
The city comes to a standstill to celebrate Thanksgiving, which falls on 24 November this year. Around 3.5 million people descend on Manhattan for the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, the annual festival of traditional oversized floats and helium-balloon characters. The parade starts promptly at 9am on 77th St and Central Park West, snaking south to finish at Macy’s Herald Square on 34th St (look out for flyers with the full route).
Rocking around the Christmas tree
New York’s penchant for Christmas trees began in 1933, the year Rockefeller Centre opened. The annual lighting of the tree (typically in the first week of December; though this year it takes place on 30 November) is such a popular ceremony that road blockades go up around Rockefeller, police are brought in to manage crowd control, and nearby hotel prices spike. Each year the chosen Norway spruce tree ranges from 65ft to 90ft in size, travelling into NYC on a custom-made trailer from elsewhere in the US.
There are plenty of other Christmas trees across town to admire, too. New York Public Library, Bryant Park, Washington Square Park and the Empire State Building all hoist up giant spruces each year, usually around the last week of November. For more than 40 years, the American Museum of Natural History has adorned its holiday tree with origami decorations (this year the theme is “beautiful bugs”). The annual tradition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a 20ft-spruce hung with baroque angels and presided over by an incredible 18th-century Neapolitan nativity scene.
Baubles, windows and lights
Midtown Manhattan, just below Central Park, is the epicentre of NYC’s Christmas extravaganza. Fifth and Sixth Avenues in particular engage in a little one-upmanship in their opulent decorations – look out for giant candy canes hanging from mantles, regal trumpeters at office doorways and oversized light installations.
In fact, you could simply comb Fifth Avenue from 40th St to Central Park to see the best of the baubles. Its holiday icons include New York Public Library’s marble lions, Patience and Fortitude, decked in wreaths, as well as a nativity scene inside St Patrick’s Cathedral. Saks Fifth Avenue strings up enough bulbs to illuminate the entire block after dark, while Tiffany cloaks its façade in diamond sparkle. Bergdorf Goodman’s Christmas dressers are traditionally the flag-bearers of festive good taste.
Ice rinks
So quintessential are New York’s winter ice rinks that they need no introduction. Manhattan’s three main ones are at Rockefeller Plaza, Bryant Park and Central Park. All are quieter to visit on weekdays than evenings and weekends. The Rink at Rockefeller (open until 31 March 2023) is iconic but tiny and the queues are terrible. The Bank of America Winter Village at super-central Bryant Park (until 5 March 2023) is NYC’s only free rink, combining ice-skating with a Christmas market and cafe selling hot chocolate and pretzels. Wollman Rink at Central Park (until 15 March 2023) is the biggest and most picturesque, boxed in by skyscrapers and trees.
Present shopping
New York’s holiday markets are blissfully low on Germanic festive tat and well worth exploring. They’re crammed with local designers selling the type of gifts that your family may actually thank you for, as well as NYC-themed Christmas cards and tree baubles. The Grand Central Terminal Holiday Fair, which inhabits part of the lavish Vanderbilt Hall in the city’s much-filmed Grand Central Station, focuses on socially conscious businesses and handmade gifts using locally sourced materials. The market at Bryant Park is more food-oriented, while the one at Union Square is good for well-priced quirky gifts. Most markets finish on Christmas Eve.
Black Friday sales run during the weekend after Thanksgiving (28 November this year) and can usually snag you discounts of 15 to 20 per cent on the high street.
Festive tipples
New York doesn’t do things by halves at this time of year, as you will see when you arrive at the window of Rolf’s German Bar in Gramercy Park, where a thick canopy of icicles, fir cones, dolls and baubles aglow with 100,000 lights weighs down the ceiling. Fair warning: this is a tourist trap, with queues to get in at 6pm any night of the week around Christmas, and it’ll cost you an eye-watering $18 for a glass of mulled wine. But it’s good, clean, tacky fun.
For something a little less arduous to get into, try Lillie’s Victorian Establishment in Union Square – a lively Manhattan boozer with overflowing red, green and gold Christmas decorations. If you want festive cocktails on the roof of NYC, head to Bar SixtyFive at the Rockefeller Centre; book a table to sit down.
Christmas showtime
First performed in 1933, the high-kicking Rockettes Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall is a New York institution. It’s essentially a chorus line with 21st-century technology: kitsch and unmissable. Grab your free santa hat on the way in, admire the Art Deco foyer of what was the world’s largest theatre when it opened in 1932, and take a drink under the 50ft crystal chandelier that only comes out at Christmas. Multiple daily performances mean tickets are easy to get hold of, and the show runs until 2 January 2023.
There’s also the New York Botanical Gardens Holiday Train Show (until 16 January 2023) in the Bronx, where model trains chug their way through a Lilliputian streetscape of New York city landmarks, crafted out of plant material. Equally wacky is the Gingerbread Lane, a crumbly creation created by a local who holds the Guinness World Record for the largest gingerbread village (on at Essex Market until 15 January 2023). The Bronx Zoo also hosts a delightful holiday lights walk-through, popular with families (until 8 January 2023).
The classic Christmas show is George Balanchine’s blockbuster version of The Nutcracker with the New York Ballet at Lincoln Center (until 31 December 2022). The list could go on: dozens more events are covered on the NYC Go website.
Travel essentials
Getting there
British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, JetBlue, Norse Atlantic, United, Lufthansa and Swiss all fly direct from the UK to New York. Fares in December start from around £315 return.
Staying there
Boutiquey Broome, occupying a converted SoHo townhouse, creates a festive atmosphere each year with a giant Christmas tree in its inner courtyard. Doubles from £475 per night, room only, this December.
To be up near the Midtown action, but paying somewhat friendlier rates, try the shiny new Arlo Midtown, with doubles from £211, room only, this month.
Step into the screen at The Plaza, star of dozens of Hollywood films but most memorably Home Alone 2. Don’t expect the cheapest room in town, however: December rates this year start at £1,300 (or wait until the New Year when they dip to £657).
