This is an extract from our weekly Feast newsletter, written by Yotam, Meera Sodha, Rachel Roddy, Felicity Cloake and others. Sign up here to get it free to your inbox every Thursday.
Sometimes, when friends come over for dinner, I start planning by picking out the serving plates. Strange as that may sound, this visual cue often sets the rest in motion: a wide ceramic platter for grilled lamb chops with ezme, yoghurt and cumin salt, say, or for a generous mound of lentils and chickpeas dotted with nuts and barberries. A splash of green here, a pop of orange there, maybe a touch of purple for contrast …
I don’t expect everyone to kick off their meal prep by picking out the tableware, but for me it can be the first spark of creativity. This week, I chatted with my test kitchen colleagues, who have serious form at feeding crowds, to pin down a few practical steps for achieving a manageable spread without leaving a mountain of cleaning up.
Start with the centrepiece
You need only one dish that will grab everyone’s attention and make them go: “Ooh!” Think blackened sea bass, celebration rice or a roast lamb shoulder. Once you have your centrepiece, round it out with simple sides such as roast potatoes with green sauce and tahini or some leafy greens. Just one knockout main and a few delicious accompaniments is more than enough to keep your guests happy. (Bonus points if the main event can be popped in the oven in the morning and taken straight to the table at dinner time.)
Prep as much as possible
Take care of the small stuff in advance. Marinate the meat, chop the vegetables, make sauces, toast nuts. Anything that can be done the day before should be. Knowing what needs doing and when will help you dodge that last-minute scramble.
Serve family style
Skip the formality and put on a spread of shareable dishes, so people serve themselves. It’s also helpful to choose a theme to pull everything together – for instance, a big plate of juicy birria beef in the centre with a charred corn salsa and a coriander crema alongside. This approach not only helps bring people together, it also saves on the washing-up.
Don’t be a martyr
You might think you can pull off a feast alone, but a little help goes a long way. Get someone else to do the grocery run, pick up the bread or wrangle with any little ones while you get on with the prep. Once there’s a crowd around you, being the cook becomes easier – most people will either want to lend a hand (in which case give them a lemon to zest) or to give you the space to focus. And remember, whoever does the shopping also doubles up as the dishwasher!
Clean as you go
It’s tempting to toss dirty teaspoons into the sink and leave them there for later, but resist the urge if you can. Wipe and rinse your spoons and knives as you go, and use a big bowl as a tabletop bin for tossing your scraps into. These small steps will make a world of difference when it comes to cleaning up.
Keep snacks in easy reach
To keep hungry guests out of the kitchen, set out a few simple snacks in a different space: a bowl of olives, some spiced nuts or a plate of crudités with as many dips as you can whip up – perhaps a butter bean mash with walnuts or spiced red lentil dip with curry leaves. Snacks that don’t require any attention are a host’s best friend.
With just one standout dish, a bit of advance prep and some unexacting snacks, hosting can become slightly less stressful. Take the help that’s offered, prepare what you can – and don’t forget the crisps (or olives or nuts).
My week in food
Hidden bistro | Our test kitchen head, Milli Taylor, tipped me off about a new spot in north London called Bolland & Crust. Run by two eccentric chefs who have been catering since 2009, this bar and eatery in Tottenham has the vibe of a hidden bistro that you stumble across on holiday and end up telling everyone about. Apparent highlights include a Reuben sandwich and barbecued lamb, and I can’t wait to get there.
What I’ve been cooking | A recent half-term favourite for my kids was a large Dutch baby pancake (I leave out the sugar in this recipe), with condiments sweet and savoury for everyone to choose from. At our house you’ll find the table laid with chocolate spread, fresh fruit, jam, yoghurt, crisp bacon, smoked salmon and cheese. The best way to serve this pancake is with a pair of large kitchen scissors, to cut big wedges for everyone.
Condiment Claire to the rescue | A colleague recently recommended I pick up The Condiment Book by Claire Dinhut, and I’m very glad I did. It’s filled with stories that bring everyday condiments into a whole new light. Did you know that ketchup began life as a south-east Asian fermented fish sauce? Or that in ancient times butter was regarded as something of a cure-all, and was even used by the Egyptians in mummification, which Dinhut dubs “ancient Botox”? She explores fats from around the world – olive oil, ghee, coconut oil and schmaltz – and explains how culture shapes cooking in ways we rarely consider. Plus, she shares some fantastic food pairings and delicious recipes along the way. In Condiment Claire I trust!
Drinks
Wines to match autumn’s earthy forest foods | David Williams
Grenache: the wine grape that keeps on giving | Henry Jeffreys
Restaurant roundup
Comfort Eating with Grace Dent
Comedian Phil Wang – who is known for his sellout Edinburgh shows and now has two Netflix specials to his name – joins Grace on Comfort Eating this week. Phil discusses navigating the supermarket shop with crocodiles in the aisles, the role garlic sauce played in his student days, and his strong thoughts on reheating rice.
