With the recent emergence of a dress-to-theme approach regarding concerts, the intricate art of tambour embroidery has seen a surge in rather successful DIY attempts.
Music fans across the globe, namely Swifties, have been teaching themselves the time-honoured couturier art in order to make their very own beaded dresses inspired by the global superstar.
Indeed, Swift has been spotted on multiple occasions stepping out in dresses by Clio Peppiatt, a label that focuses on intricate hand-beading and embroidery stemming from the eponymous designer’s original drawings. She even wore a black, ‘Midnights’-themed mini from the brand for her 34th birthday.
Ever a lover of shimmering beaded designs and short silhouettes, talented Swifties have taken inspiration from Taylor’s fashion to create dedicated, themed garments that would be worth hundreds of pounds if sold by brands like Peppiatt or their frequent collaborators over at Annie’s Ibiza.
What is tambour bead embroidery and how is it done?
Originating in India in the 17th century and popularised throughout Europe in the 18th century, tambour bead embroidery is a technique that uses a small, hooked needle and beads or sequins to create chain stitches on fabric. “Tambour” is French for “small drum”, and the name refers to the drum-shamed frame often used in the technique.
According to the London Embroidery School, the technique is as follows, “using a fine, sharp hook instead of a needle, it is punched through a tightly stretched fabric to catch a beaded, fine thread from beneath and draw it up, creating a linked, chain-like stitch. The pieces are worked on from the back of the fabric, with the design growing underneath.”
Tambour bead embroidery is a technique that is still widely used across haute couture labels globally thanks to its intricate, glamourous finish.
We’ve curated a selection of the tools you’ll need to get started on tambour embroidery at home, as well as some of the best beaded pieces on the market right now.
Materials for tambour embroidery at home
Embroidery Kit to Practice Aari, Zardosi, Tambour & Luneville Hand Embroidery
Perfect for beginners in all types of beaded embroidery, this brilliant little kit comes with an impressive 17 different hand embroidery supplies including a hoop holder stand, water soluble pen, tracing paper, half a metre of fabric for embroidery, various threads, beads, sequins and rhinestones, French wires, and more.
Buy now £45.65, Etsy
Tambour Embroidery Starter Kit
A slightly more advanced set-up for those ready to hit the ground running, this Starter Kit includes an embroidery slate frame with legs, a tambour hook with needles, a bead spinner with two needles, a set of 12 side tensioners for frames hoops and fabric, a Tytan thread set featuring 100 different colours and 10 bobbins.
Buy now £170.60, Etsy
Embroidery Beading Crochet Hook
These ergonomic, non-slip stainless steel beading hooks will be an invaluable addition to your couturier collection once you get going with the craft. They come with three different needles ranging in diameter to meet all your embroidery needs.
Buy now £12.95, Amazon
Couture Tambour Beading (Luneville Embroidery) Hand & Lock School · In Person Course
-Hand-Lock-School-In-Person-Course.webp)
Don’t quite have the discipline to teach yourself? We relate. Thankfully, London-based embroidery specialists Hand & Lock have a dedicated tambour beading class. The two-day course teaches participants the French Haute Couture technique also known as Lunéville or Crochet de Lunéville.
Buy now £210.00, Hand & Lock
Fashion Embroidery: Embroidery Techniques and Inspiration for Haute-Couture Clothing
From classic monogramming to embellishments worthy of haute couture, Jessica Pile covers it all in this brilliant embroiderer’s bible. Beginning with an overview of the role of embroidery in the fashion industry, Pile then demonstrates the basics of three main techniques – goldwork, tambour beading and embroidery stitches including silk shading, satin and stem stitch.
Buy now £19.35, Amazon
Best tambour beaded pieces on the market
Clio Peppiat Lucina embellished stretch-mesh mini dress
Worn by Taylor Swift and countless other stars, Clio Peppiat’s embellished mini dresses are worth the pricey investment. The motifs are hand-drawn by the designer before being hand-embroidered onto the dress itself.
Complete with the brand’s signature fit-and-flare silhouette and four-way stretch, you’ll be able to dance the night away restriction-free and shimmering like a mirrorball.
Buy now £1850.00, Net-A-Porter
Jenny Packham Bright Star embellished sequined tulle gown
It’s hard not to look like royalty in a Jenny Packham gown, especially given the designer is a favourite of the Princess of Wales. We adore the delicate starburst embellishments on this peach-hued tulle dress complete with floaty, cape-effect sleeves.
Buy now £3625.00, Net-a-Porter
Johanna Ortiz + Net Sustain Poder Tejido convertible embellished silk crepe de chine maxi dress
Crafted in Colombia from green silk crepe de chine and cut to skim the figure, this luminescent green garment by Johanna Ortiz comes with an overlay which can be draped across the shoulders for a modest cape effect.
Buy now £900.00, Net-A-Porter
Needle & Thread Autumn Leaves Off-Shoulder Ballerina Dress
Embrace your inner Prima Ballerina with this gorgeous, wintry, ruffled gown by Needle & Thread. Responsibly sourced and ethically made, 100 per cent of the materials used for this garment – from the tulle to the lining and even the sequins – is made from recycled and upcycled materials.
Buy now £525.00, Needle & Thread
Dries Van Noten Rinky jewel-embellished wool-blend coat
Tambour embroidery isn’t exclusive to gowns. This elegant wool-blend coat by Dries Van Noten features royal blue jewel embellishments scattered throughout the piece. The jacket is fully lined with peak lapels, dropped shoulders and sophisticated long sleeves.
Buy now £3270.00, Selfridges
Staud Blue Tommy Bag
Glimmer in Staud. The brand’s textured bag comes in mermaid-like colours, perfect for those wanting to embrace their siren-like water sign.
Buy now £335.00, SSENSE
