“Secondhand watches have a history,” says Carl Thompson, looking at the Montblanc Moonphase on his wrist. “They have a certain feel to them. They’ve got little quirks, which just adds to the feelgood factor of buying pre-loved. They’ve lived – and that’s what I love about them.”
Designer watches can be considered a status symbol, but for Thompson (founder of shirt label Hawkins & Shepherd and proud owner of 20 vintage timepieces) collecting is all about the narrative behind a watch and how it marks a moment in his life.
“When you look at an old watch, it takes you back to a time,” he says. “Someone’s worn that, someone knows what that history is.”
Thompson’s first designer timepiece was an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, bought in his 20s after years of saving – loved for its James Bond association. “It means so much to me, because it’s from a time where money was hard,” he says.
“It’s the fact that I worked so hard for it – it’s one of those watches that I look at and think if you graft at something, you can get something nice.”
Pre-loved made this possible. “I’ve always sought items that are built to last,” says Thompson. “I think pre-loved fashion is just an evolution of that. You can get amazing pre-loved pieces that are timeless, that are wearable, and are going to stand the test of time.”
Thompson also tapped into the secondhand market after finding direct access difficult. “Buying new watches isn’t as easy as you might think,” he says. “It might be a limited edition. You might have to have an affiliation with the brand. You might have to go on a waitlist. You might feel like you don’t belong.
“It’s more open when you’re buying pre-loved,” he adds. “I feel like you can buy a whole range of pieces and you feel comfortable. I feel like I belong.”
Beyond the original Omega and the Montblanc, pre-loved favourites include a Tag Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph and a Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph.
As well as collecting for himself, Thompson is a big advocate for pre-loved gifting, sharing his love for vintage finds with family members. He recommends antique jewellery, classic handbags, leather goods, rare books and vinyl as gifts that don’t age, and has a vintage Cartier watch saved on his eBay watch list to give as a gift this Christmas.
“It’s more than just a purchase. It has a history,” he says. “There’s a thought behind it. You don’t just go and buy a pre-loved gift for somebody. You think about that. There’s a reason why you’re buying it, just that thought process means something in itself.
“You’re giving new life to a gift. Maybe in time that person will gift it to someone else, and that piece will have a whole new life. That’s the beauty of pre-loved.”
For Thompson, eBay is a “vast and varied treasure trove. I know I’ll find gifts with rich narratives and the inherent promise of continuity – a legacy I want to pass on to my friends and family.”
And on his Christmas list? A pre-loved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch – “it’s beautiful” – or “any vintage watch from my birth year – it doesn’t have to be expensive. That is a thoughtful, underrated gift.”
When shopping for secondhand watches, Thompson recommends starting with eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee, where “blue ticked” watches are inspected by eBay’s verification team.
“You can filter searches for it,” says Thompson. “The process is simple: it’s easy to see which watches have the blue check mark and it gives me confidence to buy what I know is going to be authenticated, which builds that trust between eBay and myself.”
If you’re looking for yourself, Thompson suggests starting with a watch you’ll wear consistently, and avoiding trends and statement colours.
“I would always look for a watch that I’m going to wear. Forget about: ‘Oh, this watch is going to make money.’ Find a watch that you love, find a watch that would suit your style,” he says.
“If you wear more formal clothing, go for something with a beautiful leather strap. If you’re going to wear it for outdoor adventure, maybe an Omega Diver, or a Breitling. If you love Formula 1, you could look at the Tag Heuer F1 Chronograph, for that affinity to motor racing – bring that into your love of watches.
“More than anything, pick a watch that you’re going to look at and think: ‘This is a beautiful watch.’ Forget what everyone else thinks. Because if you like it, you’re going to wear it – and that’s the most important thing.”
Carl’s tips for shopping on eBay:
Check for the Authenticity Guarantee
The reassurance of this service is offered on a number of luxury products, including watches, so look out for the blue Authenticity Guarantee check mark on listings. You can filter the search listings out to only see those that come with this service.
Check seller’s feedback
A good indication of a seller is their feedback. Make sure everything is positive and look out for a number of reviews to indicate the seller has history with watches.
Reach out to sellers
Most sellers will be happy to provide additional photos, so don’t be afraid to ask. Be specific about what you want to see – the watch strap, the back of the watch. If you’re potentially going to resell it in the future, then the value can change on the slightest details. You can negotiate based on those small intricate details as well, so it may play to your advantage.
Check for service history
For watches in particular, you can ask if there’s a service history. I wouldn’t say it’s common, but if a watch is 20 years old, you would expect to have at least one service on it. If you have that, you’ve got some history behind that watch and there’s another level of authentication there.
Found The One?
Once you’ve found the perfect pre-loved gift, The One for your one, you can make sure it’s the real deal with eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee – where blue ticked luxury bags, watches and jewellery are inspected and authenticated by experts. Shop eBay’s pre-loved luxury present collection
‘Authenticity Guarantee’ is independent from, and not associated with, any brands sold on eBay.
