There's a word being bandied about at Koto - precision.
From owner Adam Elchakak talking about how he wanted to get every single layer of the fit out right before he opened to the public, to executive chef Shinya Nakano wielding a pair of chopsticks so fine he can pick up a single grain of rice.
Every detail of Canberra's most anticipated fine-dining opening has been considered.
But even though it's only been open to the public for a week, the story has already taken an emotional turn.
Koto has transformed the iconic The Lobby site in the Parliamentary Triangle, paying homage to the 60-year-old building by keeping the engraved flagstone at the entrance. It was always going to be a bold move.
But it's a move that's already warmed the hearts of Canberra.
"We've been fielding calls all week from people who got married here, 30, 40 years ago," says Elchakak.
"People are saying it's our anniversary on January 2, can we get a table?
"Even during the build we had people stop by and tell us stories about their memories of here.
"It made me realise that the place is pretty special to a lot of people and that made me want to push the bar even further to make sure we executed it with perfection."
He admits he got goosebumps the first time they turned on the lights and watched the pavilion glow.
Elkchakak worked hands-on with landscape designer Shinya Ueda, the pair scouring the countryside for boulders and plants, turning the front of the restaurant into a zen-like garden.
Inside chef Shinya Nakano and his wife Satomi preside over a kitchen where the philosophy is based on the Japanese idea of "kaiseki" philosophy.
"Kaiseki is one of the most prestigious dining experiences, following a deep-rooted set of guidelines including that your food must represent the area that surrounds you," he says.
The tasting menu featured dishes with salt bush, lemon myrtle and macadamia incorporated into traditional Japanese dishes.
Nakano trained in Kyoto with a fifth-generation sushi master, later working his magic at Nobu and Kisume in Melbourne, where he was awarded two-hats in the Good Food Guide for his 18-course omakase-style menu.
He wants to turn Koto into the best Japanese restaurant in Australia, not just Canberra.
"Every single person here, involved with Koto, is already proud of this restaurant, we're aiming for number one."
The restaurant seats 90, with a mix of banquette seating, large and small tables, which are spaciously set apart. There's a row of seats along the bar where you can watch the chefs prepare the sashimi and sushi.
And crucially, in the parliamentary triangle, two private dining rooms will soon open, able to seat 20, or split into two rooms of 10.
Koto will be an integral part of the Lawns of the Lobby precinct. The whole area is being revitalised by The Mark Agency to include further dining options and a multi-purpose area set among the rose gardens outside Old Parliament House.
- Koto is opening for general bookings from August 28 via kotodining.com.au
