How Indian gin-makers are reinventing the London Dry gin

The gin and tonic has a uniquely Indian backstory. Now, more than a century after British army officers in India added water, sugar, lime, and gin to quinine in order to make their malaria medication palatable, Indian gin has been scripting its own story.

Since 2017, a bevy of homegrown brands brought their unique interpretation to the all-year spirit, infusing it with a bouquet of Indian botanicals. Just as the market was beginning to get crowded, a wave of new gin brands have arisen, all crafting a narrative that seeks a return to the London style dry gin — fresh, crisp, and simple. London dry gin is defined by its process, made by redistilling neutral alcohol with predominantly juniper, plus a variety of natural aromatics.

Kumaon & I, India’s first provincial dry gin from Uttarakhand (Source: Special Arrangement)

Another brand that stepped into the dry gin space earlier this year was the Bengaluru-based Salud Beverages, which made a splash with its gin-forward mixed drinks. In June, founder Ajay Shetty launched a limited edition, small batch (600) Salud Cusp London Dry Gin, “because our community wants to know more about the gin we use in our drinks,” says the founder. Made at the Spirit of Manchester distillery, the gin is redolent with licorice, almonds, juniper, and litchi and has, “easy, identifiable notes, and can be sipped or enjoyed with tonic and soda”. With its first gin, Salud has already won recognition- a gold at the Global Gin Masters awards 2022, and bronze at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC). The gin is available in Goa (₹3,450) and Karnataka (₹4,950).

With International Gin and Tonic Day being observed on October 19, we take a look at new entrants in the space. The latest entrant on this scene is Kumaon & I, India’s first provincial dry gin from Uttarakhand. The gin is distilled at source from fresh Himalayan spring water and a curation of 11 regional botanicals, for nine hours. 

Ansh Khanna and Samarth Prasad, co-founders of Himmaleh Spirits, explain, “Uttarakhand’s abundant biodiversity led to the birth of Himmaleh Spirits, driven by a farm-to-bottle philosophy that focusses on provinciality, sustainability and a hyperlocal spirit production.” Bottled at 42.8% ABV (amount of alcohol present by volume) and available across Uttarakhand (₹2,700), Goa (₹2,896) and Gurugram (₹3,000), the gin is 100% traceable (every ingredient can be traced to an Uttarakhand community of farmers, foragers, and harvesters). “We use timur, a type of Sichuan pepper, black turmeric, cultivated at 10,000 feet, complemented by coriander seeds and galgal (Hill lemon) and kinu. In terms of spirit, the gin would be considered ‘oily’, which results in an extremely smooth liquid,” add the co-founders. It is best enjoyed “chilled and neat or over ice. In cocktails, the classic G&T helps bring out the spicy, earthy flavours and makes for a great Negroni,” the co-founders conclude. Timing the launch around the festive season is a happy coincidence.

The Cusp London dry gin (Source: Special Arrangement)

Arijit Bose, partner and head of operations, Countertop India as well as partner and co-founder at Mr. Jerry’s and The Lovers Rum, says, “In 2017-2018 there was a lot of experimentation with spices and herbs, losing the essence of the strong juniper notes that give London dry gin their character. Now there’s a resurgence of juniper forward gins, and there’s a certain course correction happening with the spotlight back on the London dry gins.”

London dry gin is crisper, cleaner and best enjoyed with a dash of citrus. While juniper berries for the London dry style are usually sourced from parts of Europe, particularly the UK, New Delhi- based Nao Spirits that makes Hapusa (juniper in Sanskrit) Himalayan Dry Gin (43.0% ABV) proffers an Indian version of the London dry style. The gin is distilled in India, made with foraged juniper found near the snow line in the Himalayas.

London Dry, but cask aged 

Nao Spirits, which also makes a classic London dry gin — Greater Than, launched a limited edition cask-aged gin, using their London dry iteration as a base. Broken Bat gin, since its launch in November 2022 in Goa and Australia, has won two golds at The Gin Guide Awards 2023 and a gold at the 2023 International Spirits Challenge in the Barrel aged gin category. Bottled at 47% ABV, it is available in Goa (₹1,450 for 700 ml) and across Haryana, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Telangana and West Bengal. “Lots of distillers around the world have tried ageing their gins in oak barrels. India doesn’t necessarily have a tradition of oak barrels, hence we turned to another tradition of ours — cricket!” says Anand Virmani, co-founder and distiller. The broken Kashmiri willow bats were shaved, cleaned, toasted and then soaked in a vat of high-proof Greater Than Gin (London dry) for six weeks. The gin is “best enjoyed neat, on ice or topped up with soda or cola,” states Anand. 

In September 2023, Goa-based Third Eye Distillery launched Stranger & Sons Sherry Cask Aged Gin — an amber-hued gin with a robust London dry style backbone that comes with a grapefruit garnish spray. The limited edition gin is available in Maharashtra (₹3,499)and Goa (₹3,200), bottled at 35% ABV. Sakshi Saigal, co-founder, Stranger & Sons Gin, is elated, “ To deliver a gin with an interesting flavour profile that India had never tasted before, we brought in ex Amontillado and Oloroso Sherry casks from Portugal. Stranger & Sons Gin was aged in both casks for over a year and then blended together, layered with notes of dark fruit, raisin, spice, and vanilla, creating a velvety texture. Cascara (sourced from Chikmagalur) brings in a hint of zest and wild honey from across South India gives out a pleasant yet surprising sweetness.” The gin is “best savoured neat, on the rocks, just like an old-fashioned cocktail, ” adds Sakshi.

While Goa has been the market of choice to establish new gin brands over the last six years, Arijit is in equal parts excited and sceptical about new entrants on the Indian gin space. “I am not patting anyone’s back just yet. It will be interesting to see what kind of events they organise, their width of distribution, and how creative they can get with their gin over a span of a few years.”

Another brand looking to put Indian kitchen botanicals front and centre is Goa-based John Paul Distilleries, with Malhar Classic Dry Gin and Malhar Citrus Gin. Bottled at 43% ABV for 750 ml, both gins were launched initially in Goa at ₹3,075 during Diwali 2022, and are now sold in Maharashtra (₹4,500) and Karnataka (₹3,850). While the Classic dry gin is in the mould of the London dry style, the Malhar Citrus Gin is vapour-infused with 11 botanicals (including cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, coriander, fennel, cardamom, hibiscus, Indian key lime, tea, while the juniper is from Macedonia). Named after the allure of Indian monsoons, the gins are products of small batch, copper pot still distilling. “We wanted to use botanicals that are authentically Indian to give a local twist to the gin styles,” explains master distiller Michael D’Souza.

Living Root Distilling Co. launched its first gin, Sector, in October 2022 (Source: Special Arrangement)

With a focus for now on the London dry style and citrus notes in the current crop of gins, Michael concludes, “ The London dry style is preferred these days especially for cocktails like the dry martini while more citrus-forward gins are best on hot, summer days.”