In Mayfair, there is a small side-street that once was overlooked. It runs east off Berkeley Square, but is not what you’d call a cut-through: using it to get from the square to Bond Street is slower than simply wandering down the main street. This is the scenic route.
It’s always had its visitors, some famous, some not, but now this side-street — Bruton Place — is something else entirely, emerging as a newly vibrant destination, driven by a wave of openings joining the existing grandees.
Those grandees are, as it happens, very grand indeed. One is Bellamy’s (bellamysrestaurant.co.uk), the fine-dining brasserie that’s nicknamed by its regulars as “the club without a sub” — in part, perhaps, because it’s named for the club in Evelyn Waugh's Sword of Honour trilogy. It opened in 2004 and swiftly attracted a smart crowd; its most notable diner was, famously, the late Queen. Why did the Queen go? It could be because she was born only minutes away, in a long-demolished town house, but any mention of her Majesty and owner Gavin Rankin tends to demur with a polite grumble. Still, he credits Bruton Place for the “village feel to it, much like Shepherd Market, with a history spanning hundreds of years.”
The building Bellamy’s sits in has had its own whimsical journey, from four wheels to fine meals, having started out as a garage for grand carriages. The restaurant today embodies a nostalgic charm that has endured over time, much like Bruton Place itself. “The street exudes an attractive isolation, as if embarking on a voyage of discovery,” Rankin says.
Bellamy’s near neighbour is the other grandee: The Guinea Grill (theguinea.co.uk), a pub that’s stood on the site for 600 years. Its steakhouse opened in the early 1950s, and since has fed everyone from Frank Sinatra to Eric Clapton. When it’s summer, the street out front fills with drinkers spilling from the dark bar.
There is an energy here that comes from more than a few Mayfair types on their third pint. There are those brunching at the Lali Café (lalilifestyle.com), and smart sorts slipping behind the heavy, near invisible door that leads to the Michelin-starred Japanese, Umu (umurestaurant.com). Others stick to the fine wine at Tosi Gorgonzola Bar (@tosigorgonzolabar); others still prefer family-run artisan bakery Entree (@entree_london), which serves up handmade Georgian and European dishes and pastries on the street.
Now that energy is on the up, as new faces move in. Among the biggest of these is Jason Atherton. The celebrated chef has seized the opportunity to acquire one of the town houses on the street. Atherton says he envisions a “neighbourhood restaurant” that serves sharing plates of French classics — he’ll hone in on specific regions for their specialities — and the 55-cover restaurant will also have a bar on the second floor. While its name remains undecided, the chef and restaurateur says he hopes to be opening the doors this side of Christmas.
I feel privileged to be a part of the street’s future
Bruton Place is “the quintessential British street,” he adds, where he can envision horse-drawn carts traversing the cobbled lanes. “I feel privileged to be a part of the street’s future.”
Atherton is hardly alone in spotting the opportunity. One of the biggest “chefs-chef” in the game is Larry Jayasekara, who made his name as the head chef of Gordon Ramsay’s Pétrus, following stints at Le Manoir and the Waterside Inn. Jayasekara has partnered with Tim Jefferies, director of the Hamiltons gallery, to take the lease at 27 Bruton Place. It’s a good-sized spot, at 3,000sq ft, and while details are scant, it promises an open kitchen and private dining room. But the pair have invested more heavily than that, planning to also open a delicatessen opposite.
Bruton Place is not big. And yet, it’s not just food and drink moving in. Fashion powerhouse Chanel has bagged itself two neighbouring spots on the street — parallel to its new headquarters on Bruton Street — offering a new aftercare and repair service for regular customers.
Things, then, are moving. Tim Weston, an asset management director at Berkeley Estate, says that it’s long overdue. “For a long time, Bruton Place has remained a lost gem within Mayfair,” he says. Does he think things are changing, too? Absolutely. “Bruton Place is once again reaching it’s potential to serve residents, businesses, and tourists alike.”
There’s more to come. Plans to pedestrianise the street, as revealed by Atherton, will undoubtedly be greeted with enthusiasm — especially by the doorman at The Guinea Grill. Currently tasked with ringing a bell to warn pub-goers of incoming traffic during rush hour, he eagerly looks forward to a traffic-free street.
The transformation of this enchanting alleyway stands as a testament to the power of embracing tradition while keeping an eye on the future. We’ll see you in W1.
