Outside, the colours of the buildings are of the sun: terracotta, ochre and amber. Long shadows create dappled scenes on paved stones and an orange tree is bursting with ripe fruit, their colour so bright that they look unreal – like something out of an oil painting. A vivid purple bougainvillea plant climbs up the peach-hued walls, and the air is scented with rosemary, thyme and lemon. This is Tuscany – just as you’d want it to be – straight out of the pages of every piece of literature ever written about the heart of Italy.
From Chaucer (yes, the father of English literature visited here) to Henry James, many of the world’s great writers have long found inspiration in the landscape of Tuscany. For those looking for their own ‘muse’ moment, Bagni di Pisa, near the medieval town of Lucca, is the best place to start.
The former palazzo was the summer residence of the Grand Duke Francesco di Lorena and dates back to the 18thcentury. Here, the movers and shakers of the cultural scene of the day came to stay, with Lord Byron and Percy and Mary Shelley among the well-connected house guests. These days, its chic interiors and standout spa bring in a modern-day equivalent – think: well-heeled Milanese, Italophiles and glam travellers alike.
The historic hotel, part of the Italian Hospitality Collection, which is made up of four charming properties in Tuscany and Sardinia, is found in San Giuliano Terme, a noted spa-town close to Pisa. Inside, décor is one of faded elegance with a palette of washed-out taupes, dove greys and olive greens giving a less shabby and more chic feel. Terracotta-tiled floors and huge limestone urns, filled with lush ferns and elaborately arranged blooms, add a botanical feel to public spaces. Cosy corners, complete with red velvet settees, tasseled lampshades and gilded coffee tables, are perfect for aperitivo time. The sweeping staircase, with its pretty iron balustrade and heavy lanterns, is straight out of Room with a View.
For ‘old-meets-new’ wow-factor, the Junior Suites will transport you back to a neo-classical time, albeit with all the mod-cons you could want. There are also 50 standard rooms, but the 11 suites are wonderfully atmospheric. Each of them have original 18thcentury frescoes on their vaulted ceilings, Carrera marble bathrooms and separate ‘salons’. Detailing is especially luxurious, with heavy silk-taffeta drapes, pretty wrought-iron lighting and curtained beds adding glamour to the bedroom. Be warned: you’ll want to scoop up the architectural-line drawings, velvet bedspreads and distressed mirrors and take them home to add a touch of Italian panache to your own place.
The charm of Bagni di Pisa lies in its inherent history and these age-old references continue in the Dei Lorena restaurant, where head chef Umberto Toscano finds inspiration from original recipes that would have been served to the guests of the Grand Duke.
Using the freshest ingredients and governed by the traditions of the land, the chef says his philosophy is simple: “First you enjoy the dish with your eyes, then comes the taste. I am inspired by ancient Tuscan recipes but my aim is to make them innovative and low-calorie where possible.”
Don’t let the dreaded ‘low calorie’ description put you off: for lunch, Crispy Pecorino Cheese Pralines on Pea Cream is moorishly delicious, while the Buckwheat Tagliatelli with Broccoli, Bacon and Olives may sound pretty average but it will be one of the best pasta dishes you’ll ever taste. Oh, and home cooks will be begging for the recipe for the homemade tiramisu.
Dinner is a grander affair with highlights including a starter of Octopus with Masala Sauce, Glasswort and Crispy Polenta, and a main of Grouper Fillet with Jerusalem Artichokes and Crusty Tomato Bread. To truly soak up the Tuscan flavours, kick off your evening with a bespoke wine tasting with sommelier Mirko Michelotti in the Shelley Lounge. Before you look to the bottom of your glass, make sure you look up above you – the ceiling has a remarkable 18th-century fresco, complete with flying cherubs on fluffy clouds.
Michelotti’s expertise lies in local wines – and by the end of the tasting, you’ll be able to tell the difference between Chianti, Chianti Classico and Montalcino varieties. That is if you can remember… If your head hurts the next day, however, there’s no need to worry. You’ll be in your element at Bagni di Pisa’s unique and sprawling spa.
Carved out of two original bath houses – spread over two wings called ‘Levante’ and ‘Ponente’ and which date back to the Etruscan period – you can lose yourself for hours.
All three Tuscan properties in the group are linked by their natural thermal waters, which are found at each, and which date back many centuries. Forming the heart of Bagni’s Levante area is the main thermal pool, which has a series of hydro-massage stations, and blends old and new worlds with original arches and a removable glass roof overhead.
This area is dedicated to the thermal waters and the treatments that make use of it, such as the fangotherapy, or mud therapy and salt scrubs and body therapies. Next to the main pool, is the Bath of Mercury, with its salted water, perfect for a touch of relaxing floating, while nearby is the Salidarium, a tomb-like bed of warm salt crystals, on which you lie shrouded in a white sheet. While the treatment might call to mind your own mortality, it is strangely relaxing and is said to help regenerate the skin.
The Ponente wing, meanwhile, houses the wellness centre as well as an outdoor and indoor swimming pool. There’s also a range of treatment rooms for a huge menu of therapies.
The absolute highlight, however, is the Hammam dei Granduchi, a small natural grotto with a waterfall of hot thermal water. Here you can soak in an illuminated stone bath dug into the rock, or lie on a stone bench for a mild steam experience. You enter via a small tunnel dug in the 18th century and rediscovered just a few years ago.
It’s a glorious place and its appeal attracts the likes of the Dalai Lama, who stayed here last year, and who perhaps had his own spiritual moment underground. After all, this is Tuscany where inspiration is guaranteed.
Nightly rates at Bagni di Pisa start from €150 (approx £131) per person per night in a Comfort room on a B&B basis and €284 (approx £247) per person per night in a suite. Rates also include wi-fi, access to spa, thermal pools and fitness facilities. bagnidipisa.com
