It always seems strange to talk about trends when referring to something with the incredible longevity of a watch. These are pieces intended to last a lifetime and longer, not something to be discarded when the seasons change.
However, there is a noticeable hive mind that seems, unconsciously perhaps, to settle on the same things. This year it appears that watch brands are asking the same question – do you want something bold or do you want a bracelet?
Your answer may lie ahead: read on to discover eight great high-end timepieces.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck
Heading up the “bold” camp is Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Moonstruck. As a brand, Ulysse Nardin is renowned for making out-there timepieces – it has one called the Freak, which tells you all you need to know.
This gorgeous black and gold beast is mechanically ambitious. One disc tracks the sun’s progress through the sky, rotating once every 24 hours. Another follows the moon’s progress, while also shifting counterclockwise slight every day to track the waxing and waning of this celestial body, showing a new moon every 29.53 days, in a more accurate representation of the synodic month.
On top of that, it also has a world time, date and tide indication. No wonder there was nowhere to put any numerals.
£65,790; ulysse-nardin.com/uk_en/
Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon
It might not tell you the tides, but this Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon will play you the time.
Using three gongs instead of the usual two, this modernist reimagining of a minute repeater is operated by the pusher at nine o’clock. It chimes a C note for the hours; E, D and C for the quarters; and E for the minutes – all of which can be seen dialside. If you’re not already mesmerised by the tourbillon, that is.
POA; bulgari.com/en-gb/
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
Do you remember always being told to “show your workings” by your maths teacher? This Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is the horological equivalent of that.
Everything that is normally hidden by a dial is on display – from the days and months to the moonphase. There’s a nakedness to the construction that seems shocking but as with any nude, when there’s so much to look at you just can’t help but stare.
£40,200; vacheron-constantin.com
Louis Vuitton Tambour
When it comes to smartwatches, there are those who try to make the watch look as close to a traditional timepiece as possible and those who use the limitless scope of technology to have fun. The Louis Vuitton Tambour is firmly in the latter camp.
As the name suggests, this latest iteration of the Tambour not only has an always-on display but, when you put it in Blossom mode, it erupts in a kaleidoscopic colour display. It still has perfunctory functions such as a heart rate monitor, but who cares when you can personalise the dial with an animated version of your Chinese zodiac animal?
£2,690; uk.louisvuitton.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
There are no suitcase-dwelling dragons on the dials of these watches. These timepieces are all about the bracelet. The undisputed king of this category has to be the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which is celebrating its 50th birthday this year.
The outsides of this iconic timepiece remain unchanged – the major update is inside. Powering this new model is the 7121, a movement that was five years in the making due to the demands of fitting it into the Royal Oak case without altering its dimensions. There’s also a jazzy new rotor that has been skeletonised with the number 50 added to it.
£59,400; audemarspiguet.com
Zenith Defy Revival
There’s no doubt that the Royal Oak owes a design debt to the Zenith Defy. Launched in 1969, it was the precursor to the luxury steel sports phenomenon that erupted in the Seventies.
Chunkier, more robust, it didn’t have the streamlined sexiness of its successors – but there’s something about the Zenith Defy Revival’s angular brutishness that really works now. It is almost identical to the 1969 original: there’s the scalloping on the case, the 14-sided raised bezel and the distinctive gap-link bracelet.
The fumé dial is lighter in tone and the indices have been replaced with interestingly ridged squares, but essentially this is the same design – because why tamper with perfection?
£5,900; zenith-watches.com
Omega Speedmaster
Head further back in the bracelet watch’s history and you find the Speedmaster. Launched in 1957, it was a game-changer; a chunky sporty design in an era of slimline dress-styles.
For its 65th birthday this year, the previously steel case and bracelet has been redone in Canopus gold; a proprietary blend of precious metals unique to Omega, comprising 18-carat white gold, palladium, rhodium and platinum.
Eagle-eyed fans will also notice that there is a dot over the number 90 and a one diagonal to 70 on the grand feu enamel filled tachymeter – a reference to the original CK2915-1.
£69,500; omegawatches.com
Grand Seiko
Steel is the perfect showcase for Grand Seiko’s obsession with polishing. Defined as zaratsu, it is a technique whereby any distortions on the metal are removed, so that the surface reflects light evenly, giving it a mirror-like sheen.
On this particular Grand Seiko, the polished steel is contrasted with the gnarled grainy texture of the dial, inspired by the bark of the white birch tree. Powered by the Hi-Beat, it is proof that not all steel stunners are exclusive to Switzerland.
£8,500; grand-seiko.com/uk-en
