Rolex has just revealed a collection of six new watches at the Watches and Wonders 2024 showcase in Geneva, Switzerland.
The Crown’s latest timepieces include additions to its Day-Date, Deepsea, Daytona, Sky-Dweller, GMT-Master II and Perpetual 1908 collections. And, while none of the new watches quite have the shock-and-awe of the frankly mad Day-Date ‘Puzzle Dial’ from last year’s show, there’s still plenty to get excited about.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Rolex's new GMT doesn’t have the boldness of the blue-and-red Pepsi dial, or the rumoured black-and-red ‘Coke dial’ some were expecting (although Tudor may have got it instead), but it’s still a conventionally attractive timepiece. Although it looks to be one colour at a glance, the scratch-proof ceramic bezel is actually black for the nighttime half of its 24-hour scale and grey for the daytime.
These muted shades are matched to a black dial with white hour markers and a green GMT hand, which can be used to keep track of GMT or any time zone you like – a great feature for frequent flyers who want to know what time it is back home, or at the office.
The watch has a 40mm stainless steel case and is available with either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. It’s driven by Rolex’s 3285 calibre automatic movement, which has a power reserve of 70 hours. The price is CHF 10,200, or approximately £8,900.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Next up is the debut for ombré dials on the Day-Date 36 and Day-Date 40. The version presented by Rolex today sees a slate ombré dial paired with an 18ct rose gold case, with fluted bezel, Roman numerals and Jubilee bracelet. In simple terms, ombré is what Rolex uses to describe when a dial's colour shifts from light at the centre to dark – and in this case, almost black – at the outer edges.
Also making their debut on this watch is a dial featuring faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers, in this case made from 18ct pink gold. Describing the dial, Rolex said: “The manufacture of these dials with a concentric gradient involves the application of black lacquer, a delicate operation overseen by a specialist, whose task it is to ensure the harmonious transition from colour to darkness."
Rolex also used Watches and Wonders to reveal a new Day-Date with rose gold case and blue-green dial decorated with baguette-style diamond hour markers and a diamond-encrusted bezel.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
The Perpetual 1908 was an all-new watch from Rolex when it was presented at Watches and wonders in 2023. For 2024 the model has received a new ice blue dial with a guilloché ‘rice-grain’ motif. It’s a finish Rolex says produces “a variety of reflections with every movement of the wrist.” In a world where so many watches look broadly the same, I think this timepiece truly stands out from the crowd.
The 39 mm case is made from 950 platinum and the engine-turned guilloché finish has a rosette-like design with a repeated, three-dimensional geometric pattern that extends right across the dial. The watch is presented on a brown alligator strap with Rolex’s Dualclasp double-folding clasp. It is powered by a calibre 7140 automatic movement with 38 jewels and 66 hours of power reserve, visible through the exhibition case back. Water resistance is 50 metres and it's priced at CHF 29,600 (approximately £25,800).
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea
We’re into the second half now and it’s time for a splash of gold. Or rather, an entire tidal wave of the stuff. You might think this is a revival of the blue-and-gold Submariner, but it’s actually the even bigger (and even more capable) Deepsea.
Certainly not one for the shrinking violets among you, this is a solid 18ct gold watch with a huge 44 mm case, a matching bracelet and a titanium case back. It’s big, it’s brash and it’ll no doubt be heavy on the wrist – but if you can pull off a watch like this, then more credit to you.
Being a Deepsea, this watch can go far, far deeper than your common-or-garden diver’s watch. In fact, it’s certified to depths of 3,900 metres (not a typo), and features Rolex’s Ringlock system and compression ring, which work to ensure the watch survives the pressures of deep-sea diving. There’s also a helium escape valve, allowing pressure to escape from the watch while the wear decompresses in an hyperbaric chamber.
Rolex has previously said how its Deep-sea watches can withstand the equivalent of four tonnes of weight on the 5.5 mm-thick sapphire crystal and five tonnes on the case back. The price is CHF 49,900 (£43,500).
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Two new additions to the iconic Daytona family arrived at Watches and Wonders this week. Both feature mother-of-pearl dials with eight diamonds, plus a bezel set with a further 36 diamonds. One model is presented on an Oyster bracelet and has a black-mother-of-pearls dial with white mother-of-peak sub dials, while the other comes in a black rubber strap and has a dial with the inverse – a background of white mother-of-pearl with black sub dials.
Both watches have a 40mm case made from 18ct white gold and both use the calibre 4131 automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve. As ever with the Daytona, the watch is punctuated by three subdials controlled by two unguarded push buttons at the two- and four o’clock positions. Water resistance is 100 metres and the watch is priced from CHF 58,800 (£51,300).
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Finally, we have an update to the 42 mm Sky-Dweller. Much like the Day-Date mentioned earlier, this watch is presented in 18 ct rose gold with a slate dial. This is the first time the Sky-Dweller has been offered with a Jubilee bracelet in precious metal (as opposed to stainless steel). The rose gold and slate model is joined by a Sky-Dweller fashioned vrom 18 ct yellow gold with a white dial.
Both have a Jubilee bracelet with an Oysterclasp fastener and ceramic inserts inside the links. Inside, the watch is powered by a calibre 9002 automatic movement that shows the date, month and an additional timezone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds of the primary time zone. Power reserve is approximately 72 hours and water resistance is 100 metres.
For more watch news, T3 is running Luxury Watches Month for April, and you can also check out our guide to the best watches.
