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The Independent UK

Joanna Whitehead

Hartwell House and Spa, Buckinghamshire hotel review

Buckinghamshire AA

A former residence of an exiled French king, this luxury stately home is blessed with 94 glorious acres of gardens and parklands, making this National Trust property the perfect place to live out your Bridgerton fantasies

Location

Hartwell House is located within the Vale of Aylesbury and on the edge of the Chilterns, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It’s 40 miles northwest of London and a 38-minute direct train ride from London Marylebone to Haddenham & Thame Parkway. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride away (there’s a rank at the railway station). It’s 13 miles from the M40 motorway and Oxford is just 20 miles away. The area is teeming with historical sights: Blenheim Palace, Waddesdon Manor, Bletchley Park and Claydon House are all within an hour’s drive away, so access to a car is an advantage; Hartwell House guests can enjoy discounted or complimentary access.

There are 94 acres of garden here (Nigel Harper)

The vibe

Like being let loose in your very own Saltburn, except with less death and more scones. Luxurious, decadent and pretty much irresistible, Hartwell House is part of living history. The present building dates back to the 17th century, but was first mentioned in the Domesday Book as belonging to William Peveral, a favourite and supposed illegitimate son of William the Conqueror. From the moment you arrive at the main house, expect to be dazzled by a series of increasingly lavish spaces, with opulent furnishings, antique furniture and vast rooms filled with coffee-table books, fresh flowers and original paintings. Georgian interiors reveal intricately decorated ceilings, a grand staircase is home to an eccentric mix of carved figures and elegant arches give way to a Rococo frieze and marble chimneypieces… the effect is gasp-inducing.

The lavishly decorated Morning Room (Andreas von Einsie)

Service

Exemplary. Staff decked out in formal wear are waiting to take your luggage upon arrival, before giving you a brief tour of the main house and its history to help you get your bearings. From afternoon tea in the drawing room, to dinner in the dining room, nothing is too much trouble. One young staff member possessed an encyclopaedic knowledge about the property and its history, and graciously gave us a tour – a service that is available to all guests.

Bed and bath

There are 48 rooms and suites all individually designed in a traditional country house style, finished with antiques and paintings. Thirty can be found in the main house, which is home to singles, doubles, twins, royal rooms and suites, while Hartwell Court, a two-storey restored 18th-century indoor riding school and stables, is home to classic court rooms, double rooms and suites. Elsewhere within the grounds sits The Old Rectory, an elegant Georgian house set in two acres of pristine private garden that sleeps seven, has its own private outdoor swimming pool and is available for private hire. All feature ornately patterned wallpaper, floral drapes, original paintings, soft furnishings, antique furniture and seating, a hospitality tea tree with Grandma Wild’s biscuits, a selection of teas, Nespresso coffee machines, Quercus Penhaligon toiletries and monogrammed writing paper should you feel inspired to pen a note to your beloved. Royal rooms were once occupied by King Louis XVIII of France and his Queen, Marie Josephine of Savoy, and feature large four-poster beds and marvellous sweeping views of the landscaped gardens. Televisions and DVD players are installed in all rooms and guests can borrow from the hotel's DVD library, which does a decent line in Oscar-winning best films, from Gladiator to Moonlight.

You don’t need to look far to find antiques and paintings at Hartwell House (Andreas von Einsie)

Food and drink

Hartwell House couldn’t be a more perfect setting for afternoon tea, which can be taken in the hotel’s Morning Room, Drawing Room or Library. All are a continuation of the sumptuous furnishings, antiques and paintings that typify the house, and enjoy vistas across the gardens. Service is superb with traditional finger sandwiches, homemade patisseries and freshly baked buttermilk scones served alongside an impressive selection of teas (try the vanilla chai) and an optional glass of fizz.

Dinner is overseen by executive head chef, Daniel Richardson, formerly of London’s three Michelin-starred La Gavroche and Le Meridian Hotel’s Michelin-starred Oak Room, who earned Hartwell House two AA rosettes for his cookery skills. Locally sourced and seasonal produce cooked beautifully is very much the order of the day here, with elevated classics, including breast of Aylesbury duck, sirloin of Oxfordshire beef (both delicious) and twice-baked cheese souffle. Food is rich and indulgent, without being cloying, and service is friendly, hands-off and smooth. Throughout service, a pianist tinkles the ivories, which befits the genteel atmosphere to a tee. Hartwell’s cellar scooped the AA’s Notable Wine List award for 2023, so it’s worth splashing out on a bottle. While it states that trainers, tracksuits and shorts are “not acceptable” in the restaurant, we didn’t get the memo – and neither did several other guests – and it didn’t seem to be a problem. Lunch is also available on Saturday and Sunday – and Hartwell has four dedicated ground-floor rooms for private dining and special occasions.

Facilities

Fancy a dip? The indoor pool is part of the brilliant spa (Hartwell House & Spa)

The spa is well worth a visit while at Hartwell and is home to a 15m indoor pool, steam room, sauna, hot tub and gymnasium. While it’s a little on the petite side, there is more than enough room for the other guests. There are a range of treatments available from experienced therapists, including massage, facials, manicures and pedicures.

The 94 acres of magnificent gardens landscaped by Richard Woods, a contemporary of Capability Brown, are a delight to explore. As well as several walking trails, there’s a private lake and 18th-century bridge, a mile-long double avenue of lime trees, an obelisk, a classical Italianate Ionic temple, a ruined 16th-century church and enough flowers, trees, birds and wildlife to satisfy your inner Attenborough (I spotted a muntjac deer during my visit). And in spring, a carpet of 10,000 yellow daffodils emerges. This is prime territory for donning your best frock and flouncing through pristine lawns in the period drama of your dreams.

If it all feels a bit mellow for your tastes, you can smash a ball about on the tennis courts in the old walled garden or play croquet on the lawn. Archery and clay pigeon shooting can also be arranged in the grounds. Alternatively, curl up with a book in the library, where the Royal Meteorological Society was founded in 1850.

Disabled access

One bedroom is specifically assigned for guests with access needs and features rails in the bath and by the toilet, but it is not fully accessible for guests with disabilities; a bath seat to lower guests in and out of the bath can be placed in the room upon request.